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Wiring lights

spyker

NAXJA Forum User
Location
delaware
So i am working up plans for an auxiliary fuse/relay box for all the extra goodies. I want to have multiple switches for different lights; easy- power to relay, relay to switch and lights. BUT i want to wire the lights to different switches AND a switch that turns them all on at once. With my limited wiring knowledge i was thinking of wiring everything to a "master" switch and then to other switches but not sure how. Can anyone help?
 
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You could try connecting them in a series and have them switched to ground.

This example uses five toggle switches, one for each light and one main on / off switch for all lights.

A fuse is required near the battery. Secondary fuses may be required. The lighting installation instructions should have fuse requirements and placement for each light module. The black ground wires from the lighting relays to switches would need only to be light gauge wire, such as 18 gauge. From the relays, 30 to 85 could be jumpered with a piece of wire or diode.

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lights_in_series_fuses_4_switches.jpg
 
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The schematics have a common main switch , to control the all four relays. You would need to add some sort of isolation between the relays to have a common switch.

It would require a larger fuse. I'd have to think about what would be the best method to wire in a main on/off switch.

You could possibly use diodes or a fifth relay.
 
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Ok guys, I'm by no means an expert in electronics but I need some clarification after reading this thread. I just finished my "fitch box" last night after weeks of Googling how to wire it up and was feeling pretty confident about it up till now. I thought terminal 85 is ground. I see terminals 86 as ground in some of these diagrams. Am I missing something?
 
When switching relays to ground the common (5th) master switch could be installed using four diodes, one for each relay.

If switching positive you can move the switch wires and diodes over to the other side of the coil.

The diodes should isolate each relay.

I haven't tried installing a master switch as illustrated in the diagrams. Installation, sizing the diode, wiring connections, would be trial and error and experimental.

When sizing a diode you usually add 20 to 50 percent to the maximum voltage and current of the circuit.
 
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Ok guys, I'm by no means an expert in electronics but I need some clarification after reading this thread. I just finished my "fitch box" last night after weeks of Googling how to wire it up and was feeling pretty confident about it up till now. I thought terminal 85 is ground. I see terminals 86 as ground in some of these diagrams. Am I missing something?

Your right ... my relay, pins 85 and 86 are reversed ... I have several drawings for the relay, some 85 and 86 are reversed.

One illustration is for the socket the other are the pins on the relay. 85 and 86 are sometimes reversed depending on from where you're your're viewing the socket or relay.

I probably should have used one of the other drawings, for technical clarity.

You can usually wire them either way. Technically 85 is ground for automotive relays, PDC, etc.

relay.jpg
 
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Either 85 or 86 could be used to close a relay. The use of relays seems huge in Automotive applications. Remember to use a fuse or circuit breaker to protect your switch, whether using a relay or not. A 9 volt battery is useful in testing a relay. pos. to 85 neg. to 86, and then swap the battery around, 86 to neg. 85 to pos. Do try this one at home.
 
Well, .... not sure what happened the editor blocked me out and double posted ... the editor seems to have a time limitation.

Anyways sorry about confusing the grounds and power to 85 and 86.

After reading your original post I drew up those schematics from memory, sort of in a haste, as it was past bedtime. Did not have the time to verify the drawings.

Here's how I'd place the diodes for a master switch, when switching to ground.

MASTER_SWITCH_NEG2.jpg
 
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lights_in_series_fuses_4_switches.jpg

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lights_in_series_fuses_4_switches_individually_f.jpg


Fusing size and placement, I would follow the instructions that comes with each device. If the manufacture includes one it should be used and/or left connected to the wiring harness.

Some types of automotive wiring, using higher amps, etc. I fuse at both ends of the wire or cable.
 
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If installing a negative ground relay switch, you could try installing a diode or jumper directly on the relay, rather than splicing additional wires. The diode or jumper would need to completely isolated from the other wires and pins.

A negative ground switch keeps pins 30 and 86 hot at all times.

It's only a suggestion, something I might try when wiring a switched relay. You just have to use a little caution and common sense while wiring and maintaining isolation between the connections.

Negative ground switch

RELAY_DIODE_JUMPER.jpg
 
Thanks for the clarification on this everyone - you guys rock! It looks like I now need to learn about the 86 terminal being the ground on certain applications.
 
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