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Another solenoid AW4 question

B

Boss Cherokee

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Riverside Calif.
Quick to the point info:
1999 AW4 XJ 2wd not shifting into O.D. trans exchanged out at about 190k for a salvage with under 100k donor.
Trans works fine for over 1 year then it threw a code.
Code: PO700 but also recent PO123 TPS which I will replace after the trans fix if it does not clear. The PO700 code has been on for 6-7 months but the XJ is only driven locally it rarely see's the hiway!.
I know that the PO700 could be the internal solenoids but I am also reading the neutral safety switch could be the problem? I will clean and inspect NSS asap before I check Ohm's on the solenoids. I do have the original harness so I may swap them out after I run a voltage/short test if I need to!
Question needed answer are;
1)Is testing the solenoids achievable from the exterior at it's wire loom? Ohm setting and correct reading for a bad solenoid?
2)Which solenoid would be the TCU to check the front one?
3)Can I replace just the one solenoid because O'Reily's sells only both and would you recommend Pick a Part since I have to get in the pan?

There is a lot of knowledge here so I appreciate and pass what I get from NAXJA to others! Thanks in advance for any help!
 
Fix the TPS code first. The TPS has direct input to the TCU and PCM for shifting the AW-4.
 
Tim is correct about the TPS code. I would address that first; however, the OD solenoid in my 2WD 98 AW4 only lasted 160k before it gave up the ghost. P0700 is a generic transmission code, indicating an actual trans code is stored in the TCM. A quality scan tool will be able to communicate with the TCM and pull that code. I sourced 3 replacement solenoids off of Ebay for $65 shipped. Replacement is very simple and I've had zero problems for the last year. Use it as an opportunity to refresh your fluid and change the filter.
 
Cleaned NSS, although it was not that dirty! Checked voltage on TPS. It checked out good with 5.3 on orange & 4.something on orng/blk. I still have a PO700 code, but I also got a PO743 which is the TC solenoid. I did get this code at first six months ago but it hadn't come up for awhile so I will change the solenoid after I test it just for my experience.
 
Just remember that the shift and torque converter solenoids are different and not interchangeable. The physical differences aren't readily apparent.
 
I kept my old ones for awhile thinking the price was too good to be true, but my 98 shifts great now and doesn't throw any DTC's. I did ohm check the solenoids when I pulled them as I believe spec was 11-15 ohms (could be wrong on that) and the OD solenoid was right at about 15 ohms. I think I had thermal failure as it would only trip the P0743 after 20 + miles of driving when the AW4 was nice and hot.
 
98NWCherokee said:
I kept my old ones for awhile thinking the price was too good to be true, but my 98 shifts great now and doesn't throw any DTC's. I did ohm check the solenoids when I pulled them as I believe spec was 11-15 ohms (could be wrong on that) and the OD solenoid was right at about 15 ohms. I think I had thermal failure as it would only trip the P0743 after 20 + miles of driving when the AW4 was nice and hot.
Click to expand...

Thanks I was just about to post you but I went back and reread the material specs and it list 2 shift and one lock up so I am assuming 2 are identical or at least close and the TC one would be the odd one. Last post from 4 shot almost thru me into a panic but I am comfortable with your suggestion! Thanx again!
 
The kit comes individually packaged and labeled as the shift 1-2, shift 2-3, and OD solenoid. Just do one at a time and you'll have no troubles. I bought a filter and quality gasket kit from NAPA and have had zero leaks as well. Removal is as easy as disconnecting the electrical connector and pulling them down after removing one bolt. You'll be surprised how simple it is. I also found some great step by step pics on the web that will walk you through the process.

EDIT:

This helped me a lot. I hope its not against the rules to post to another Jeep forum....NAXJA is my definite home base and go to resource, but these pics made it very simple:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/aw4-solenoid-replacement-write-up-no-56k-717206/

Took me about an hour or so and I took my time.
 
Last edited:
Nope, definitely not. Drop the pan (I left the dipstick tube in place). Let it drain for awhile so you're not working in all ATF. Remove the filter (LOTS of ATF will pour out). Remove each connector and attaching bolt for the solenoids and pull them down and out. Install new ones and make your electrical connections. Install new filter and gasket and tighten pan bolts in star pattern to torque spec (I want to say like 20 in lbs or something like that) Add Dex III and you're good to go.
 
Last edited:
OK! Thanx I remember when I did the trans oil & filter change on my 96 that the solenoids appeared to be accessible but wanted conformation with XJ owners! I'll be waiting for the shipment and post when done Thanx again!
 
I received the parts Friday and installed them Saturday with no issues! I did remove the bolt from the bell housing retaining the dip stick but it was almost pointless to because the cross member and exhaust leave you minimal room! My 96 has a custom cross member that leaves room to drop the pan after the skid plate is removed so I had forgot about how tight the trans pan sites between the two obstacles. The solenoids are pretty identical other than one having a shorter mounting bracket & a different "O" ring neck, but the part #'s were all the same. All in all it was about an hour and a half start to finish with test drive so I was really pleased with that!
Thanks again 98 & 4shot for the tips and what not!
 
Is it fixed? i had the same problem not shifting and cutting at like 55 it was the tps. Found this out after i tried to replace a ecm and didn't fix the problems.
 
Yes it is fixed! The XJ was smoked today after over 200 miles logged since the repair and no codes! Wifes happy I'm back to watching football and my beer!

98 or anyone else out there that knows a link or has experience with the neutralizing of the TCU solenoid please chime in.
I want to stop my converter from locking up on my 96 XJ with 36" tires when I am around town. If anyone knows how please let me know!
 
Boss Cherokee said:
I want to stop my converter from locking up on my 96 XJ with 36" tires when I am around town. If anyone knows how please let me know!
Click to expand...

Install a switch in the brake sense wire. Make the circuit open when you want the TCU not to lockup the torque converter. Its normally grounded when brake is released and the lockup won't occur while it thinks the brake is on. On my '94 the brake sense is a white with pink tracer into the TCU, could be the same.

Do you have an auxillary cooler? I'd keep an eye on tranny temp with the lockup disabled as it can get real hot.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Vamish I do have a trans cooler/gauge and I will check and confirm wire colors next weekend! As far as the heat I would think that it should only increase at a higher speed/RPM at no lock up!
 
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