No. The Other Left. Question Re. One Ton Tie Rod End P/N

Following various parts lists for a WJ swap I hauled off and ordered Moog P/N ES2233L for one side and ES2234R for the other side.



Well, I don't want the one with the hole in the middle of it. I just want a simple one like the one on the right.

No doubt I missed it somewhere in the several dozen pages of WJ write-ups. Rather than going back and re-reading them all, could someone who has been there lend a hand?

What is the P/N for the LH without the hole in the shank?

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TRESTAND.html

Tk234. I assume these are for a tie rod not your drag link? If DL you might want the high-angle versions.

Besides. Don't you need offset tre? I'm in the middle of my wj swap. I beforehand had ruffstuff otk steering. And I ordered 3 offset tres

NCCherokee said:

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TRESTAND.html

Tk234. I assume these are for a tie rod not your drag link? If DL you might want the high-angle versions.

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Thank you. That is a good link. I appreciate the detailed info they have about the TRE.

Does anyone know if that number cross references with Moog P/Ns?

831_xj said:

Besides. Don't you need offset tre? I'm in the middle of my wj swap. I beforehand had ruffstuff otk steering. And I ordered 3 offset tres

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I sure wish I knew the answer to that question.

That is one of the things I am going to figure out the hard way. I have found very few specifics about which wheels and which diff covers are in play with the TRE issues.

In searching I have come across more combinations of parts than I know what to do with. One of the more interesting finds was an offset TRE that had to be ground down to the point that it looked like an accident waiting to happen. That is not where I want to go.

I would prefer to be using parts which I could obtain locally, wherever locally happened to be, in the event of a failure. With that in mind I am starting out with the sort of parts I could find at Napa. If those won't do, then I will resort to specialty parts.

Goferit inserts and WJ TREs are probably an option which I would prefer to the offset TREs, unless someone has an idea of how to get offset TREs over the counter at a normal parts store.

There seem to be lots of options on this path. I am trying to pick the ones that best fit my situation and priorities, but I know there is more than one way.

The problem with the WJ TRE is the almost non-existent thread pattern to tap. Of course you can shorten the stock wj tie rod. For me I already have larger wheels (take offs from a dodge magnum cost $125 for all 4). So I can use whatever TRE I want. I did the offset tres to get the bar out of the front diff. You could also bend a tie rod around it. I think some have ground a bit off the offset TREs and used as small as 16" wheels with the larger calipers. I'm not super concerned about tearing up the tie rod on the 1 ton stuff. My stock TRE has lasted me so far. Just pick up two extra and carry them with you

Shortening the stock WJ rod is one of the options on my plate.

I believe JKS sells a short WJ tie rod for this application, but they are on my excrement list at the moment.

I thought about bending the tie rod to clear the diff, but it occurred to me, how do you then adjust toe-in? If you can accept adjustments of one full turn at a time that will work, but if you need a half turn you are out of luck.

Anak said:

Shortening the stock WJ rod is one of the options on my plate.

I believe JKS sells a short WJ tie rod for this application, but they are on my excrement list at the moment.

I thought about bending the tie rod to clear the diff, but it occurred to me, how do you then adjust toe-in? If you can accept adjustments of one full turn at a time that will work, but if you need a half turn you are out of luck.

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I suppose you could unbolt the TRE on one end and spin it, that would be a half if you only do one side

Edit, besides, they are what, 24 TPI? How much difference is a full turn vs a half turn?

Re: Re: No. The Other Left. Question Re. One Ton Tie Rod End P/N

Anak said:

Shortening the stock WJ rod is one of the options on my plate.

I believe JKS sells a short WJ tie rod for this application, but they are on my excrement list at the moment.

I thought about bending the tie rod to clear the diff, but it occurred to me, how do you then adjust toe-in? If you can accept adjustments of one full turn at a time that will work, but if you need a half turn you are out of luck.

Click to expand...

If you are going to add bends to the tie rod, pick up a synergy double adjuster in 7/8-18 and bend away. Cost is about $50, I have one on my tie rod and one on my drag link. I run standard GM/Dodge TRE/DRE's and clear 15" wheels just enough. Skipped the go fer it adapters and reamed the knuckle for GM taper directly.
Gimme a bit and i'll find those part numbers.

Re: Re: No. The Other Left. Question Re. One Ton Tie Rod End P/N

NCCherokee said:

The problem with the WJ TRE is the almost non-existent thread pattern to tap. Of course you can shorten the stock wj tie rod. For me I already have larger wheels (take offs from a dodge magnum cost $125 for all 4). So I can use whatever TRE I want. I did the offset tres to get the bar out of the front diff. You could also bend a tie rod around it. I think some have ground a bit off the offset TREs and used as small as 16" wheels with the larger calipers. I'm not super concerned about tearing up the tie rod on the 1 ton stuff. My stock TRE has lasted me so far. Just pick up two extra and carry them with you

Click to expand...

WJ's use an M24 thread, I picked up a set of taps off eBay for both left and right thread for about $75. ... but then plans changed and went GM taper instead.

devilfrog said:

For the WJ swap we decided to go with the GM 1-ton ends (ES2010L, ES2010R, ES2026R, ES2027L) OTK and I'll be using a Synergy suspension double adjuster on the tie rod so we can add clearance bends where needed. then all the OTA brackets from there. All new parts will complete the front axle, and then I just need to do the rear wheel bearings, and motor mounts.
Can't wait for tomorrow .... three days without my XJ and having to tool around in my wifes JK ... gggaaaaccckkk! She didn't like it when I said my turdy old XJ handles better incomplete than her pretty Jeep. Pics to come.

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Found the info in my long dead build thread.

And a picture of the double adjuster (older pic still on JK 17's)

Devilfrog said:

Found the info in my long dead build thread.

And a picture of the double adjuster (older pic still on JK 17's)

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How bout some more detail on the frame side trackbar mount?

Clayton sells a XJ width "WJ tie rod" that uses stock WJ rod ends..

Johnnie Walker said:

Clayton sells a XJ width "WJ tie rod" that uses stock WJ rod ends..

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There's your solution

Lots of good options in here now. Thanks guys.

I am particularly interested in that double adjuster. I think I am going to be ordering one of those.

Thank you.

Re: Re: No. The Other Left. Question Re. One Ton Tie Rod End P/N

NCCherokee said:

How bout some more detail on the frame side trackbar mount?

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Such as?

Custom job, got my OTK/OTA setup so the teacher is within 3" in length of the drag link (mounted in the stock orientation it was 9" shorter). As with all things it has it's ups and downsides.

Devilfrog said:

Such as?

Custom job, got my OTK/OTA setup so the teacher is within 3" in length of the drag link (mounted in the stock orientation it was 9" shorter). As with all things it has it's ups and downsides.

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I'm working on my WJ swap, and I felt like there was room to outboard the frame side trackbar for a few more inches than the stock/rubicon express setup I have now. I used the boostwerks trackbar mount, I think I started a thread. I'm not sure how much additional length I'll get but my rough eyeball test was 3" longer than if I used the RE mount I have. What is your trackbar and DL lengths? Can I see more pictures of it from straight on and from the side? Any gusseting? Bolted or welded?