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rdltmc3
September 16th, 2014, 10:58
Ok. I've done searches and everything seems to not fall exactly in line with what I'm trying to do so looking for some simple answers.

Xj is a 2001 with 156,000 miles and is used a daily. I have and never intend on any offroading but it is used in snow (used as a daily driver and live in Chicago)

The jeep is in need of front suspension and would to go stock replacements on shocks/springs would be only a few $$ less then going with a full 2" lift.


My question is, can I buy this AND ONLY THIS and be perfectly ok on the street without any additional purchases or add on's?

http://4x4.fatbobsgarage.com/jeep-cherokee-xj-2-lift-kit-w-performance-8000-series-shocks-1984---2001-p7567.aspx

beasticles
September 16th, 2014, 11:10
You may want to throw in a transfer case drop as well (cheap ones can be found on eBay for $20), although with that little lift it will depend on if you are getting vibes or not. The kit you linked to looks like an "add a leaf" for the rear leaf springs. You may want to get full replacement leaf springs if yours are flat or inverted from age.

rdltmc3
September 16th, 2014, 11:14
rear is not "to" bad.... mainly looking at the kit because it includes front springs and shocks.


add a leaf may just give it the pick me up it needs..


if transfer case drop and adjustable track bar are needed i most likely will not do it and just go stock. Im thinking that only the 2" lift i should be ok.

civic50
September 16th, 2014, 11:15
Almost. You will need new U-bolts for the rear axle, and longer soft brake lines front and rear are highly recommended. An alignment afterwards is also a good idea since it's your DD.

sidriptide
September 16th, 2014, 11:18
sure, if you absolutely cant afford anything else.
but here is what will happen, the front springs will make the stock track bar pull the axle toward the drivers side so the axle will be offset and your alignment will be off.
you will eventually bend and maybe even break your swaybar end links and the swaybar bushings will get beat up as well.
the rear will ride like a rock, and you could very well see rear driveshaft vibrations from the increased lift. a 2" lift will always start out as 3" or more until the leafs settle in. i ran a small shim in the rear that fixed it for the most part but never really went away.
i did the exact same thing on my first lift on an 87 XJ and by the time i realized i cut corners that i wasnt aware of i had smoked a set of tires and wasted my front swaybar hardware.
if you do this, make a point to save for a new track bar, or even a trackbar relocation bracket. it's a bandaid, but better than not addressing the issue at all.
just be aware of the steps you are skipping, and make sure you go back to them.

all in all i was not happy with my choice after the fact, but it was a good learning step on my first experience with a lift.

DeftwillP
September 16th, 2014, 11:18
Hmmm....if you're not even sure you need rear springs just yet, why not just piece things out. A set of cc784 progressive coils up front ($66 amazon prime) will net around 1.5-2" and a great ride. Any set of white body shocks (which is what you're looking at already) can be had for $100-$120 depending on deals/coupons. Then you can still do extended shackles/AAL/relocators for rear as needed to custom tailor your lift.

Agreed on possibly needing a transfer case drop as well for newer model.

beasticles
September 16th, 2014, 11:19
Bottom line is yes you probably could get away with just those parts plus the U-bolts for the rear leaves, but it's possible you'll have minor vibes (I think a small chance). Most XJ owners are always trying to save a buck (I understand that), but you may notice a harsher ride up front if those springs and shocks are stiffer than the factory spring rate.

md21722
September 16th, 2014, 12:36
It MIGHT be, but it depends.

Considerations:

1. On newer XJ's, pretty much any lift over 1" can shift the front axle and cause driveline vibrations. The transfer case drop is a poor man's method to get the driveline axle right. It will reduce ground clearance, can make your exhaust look funny unless the hangers are changed, and put extra stress on your front motor mounts.

2. A longer track bar MAY be necessary, but probably not.

3. Add a leafs are generally said to give a poor ride

4. I doubt longer brake lines are really necessary for 2" unless you plan on going off road.

5. Using extended shackles in the rear isn't great either, shackle relocation brackets should be used, or even better, a new spring pack.

My suggestion is do it right and do it once, or leave the stock ride height and just replace what's worn.

831_xj
September 16th, 2014, 21:20
A transfer case drop would be the easiest out of the install IMO.
Buy it. Install it. Smile :)

CarbonXJ
September 17th, 2014, 09:10
I'll give you a run down of my '00 I did when i first lifted. Suspension was very, very worn out from PO towing trailers and foul weather use vehicle; everything else is pristine!!

-I went with new front stock coils ($65), and 2" spacers ($20) for the front; I did not need a new track bar or modify it.
-Rear I built spring packs (Free) with Ford Ranger springs (XJ main, Ranger 2nd, Ranger 4th, XJ 4th) and Rusty's 3/4" shackles ($60).
-Shocks are JK Sahara stock OEM all 4 corners with BPMs (ebay $50).
-Brake lines are YJ lines up front ($30) and Dodge Dakota ($24) rear.
-Replaced front & rear sway bar hardware ($20)

Total life price to clear 30s -- $300 after misc. hardware and such. You DEFINITELY want to replace bolts and LIBERALLY use antiseize. The actual lift height over stock was 2.5" front and 1/8" shy of 3" in the rear. It rides GREAT. In fact, most passengers do not know it's lifted (except for the hop to get in).

I DID get vibes after lifting, but it is barely noticable; I drove with vibes for 2 years. I later installed an SYE, since I'm going up to 4" and 33s.

JTM
September 18th, 2014, 12:17
Yes, you could run that lift with no issues, or you might have a few issues. Every XJ I've worked with has been different.

If you buy that lift, do yourself a favor and get new U-bolts. Also be prepared to need a new track bar, tie rod ends, longer brake lines, and longer bump stops.

Oh, and ignore the recommendation to get a transfer case drop; they are never the correct solution

Johnnie Walker
September 18th, 2014, 22:39
I would recommend spending a bit more money and getting better parts. Especially shocks.
Building a bastard pack for the rear will be better than AAL garbage.
Maybe a pair of these up front?
http://www.jegs.com/i/PAC+Racing+Springs/278/JP18X4.0X250/10002/-1
OME or Bilstein 5100 shocks.
You can straighten out the front hard brake line for some more droop.