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difference between 2" and 3-3.5" lift?

M

md21722

NAXJA Forum User
Location
TN
Before putting down a lot of money, I am wondering if there's a major difference between 2" and 3-3.5" of lift.

At 2" my 97 XJ comfortable runs 30" BFG A/T and can have most everything else stock.

If I upgrade to 3-3.5" I'd get 31" BFG A/T, extended shocks, longer brake lines, longer track bar, possibly re-gear to at least 3.90's, and convert to rear disc brakes.

If I'm never going to run anything larger than 30-31" tires, is there any reason to go through the added expense of the extra 1-1.5" ? Does the extra tire size or 1-1.5" lift do a lot more?

Sorry for adding practicality to the equation, but it seems like 2" is good enough, or you might as well go 4-7" + and get 33", 35", or 37" tires...

Vehicle is unlikely to ever get a full cage. Its mostly for utility on paved roads and paved or unpaved mountain passes or dirt or muddy roads.

My other XJ is a 01 that has stock suspension and runs 235/75 BFG A/T and it does what I need it to. The suspension is a bit tight on it. My 97 XJ has some tired parts (shocks, etc) that I'm looking to replace and I'd like to get rid of the transfer case drop and replace with a SYE. Since it has the 242, my options for SYE are limited. I'm likely to either pay Tom Woods or have my buddy machine my output shaft on his lathe. I'd rather do it right, do it once.

In the past when the need exceeded the XJ I used my 1993 Dodge W250 with the Cummins. It had Dana 60 and Dana 70 axles and 600 pounds of bumper and winch. I would pull poplar out of the creek bed where it was too steep to get the tractor down there.

Thanks
 
I think you're over thinking this, better than not thinking at all but you're making 3" seem crazy. Why not trim your fenders, then either a smaller backspace wheel or spacers and run 31" that's what I'm at on 2" of lift
 
I'd do 3" if I felt it'd ride better/ moother on rough roads.

May seem dumb, but with the 2" I'm pretty happy.

I had a 1990 Range Rover Hunter Edition in the past and you could pretty much drink coffee out of a mug on some of the dirt roads that hadn't been graded in 30+ years. That was all mechanical with a big self leveling shock in the rear and no sway bars (from the factory).

My 01 XJ would toss you around.

With my 97 XJ I can coast over speed bumps and dips. And it has the worn out factory Up Country gas shocks.

I was going to go with OME shocks. Just looking for ideas/opinions before I buy new shocks and tires.
 
Most / all off the shelf lift kits, esp in the 3-4" range, are still running 8" travel shocks. This means you are down to shocks & springs to make a difference on rough roads (unless they are rough enough to drag your rockers)
So... with 30s or 31s, 2" will do it.
I run 2.5" lift and stock height shocks were maxed out, I only had about 3/4" down travel. I'd recommend relocating shock mounts somehow, or running a longer shock, even with 2" lift.
 
I would've hoped I could look up the ARB chart for the XJ and buy the right shock for the lift and experience pure bliss. LOL. As I understand it, your shocks had 3/4" down and 7-1/4" up with the lift kit? So it would have been more like 3-1/4" down and 4-3/4" up without the lift kit?
 
The best way to measure for bump stops and shocks is to remove the coil, and then Flex it to full stuff and full droop. Taking measurements, of course. With some bump stops you can fine tune it perfect. With shocks you need to decide What length/travel will work best.

With no swaybar and my mid-arms My Bilstein 5100 (10" travel, and technically for 4" lift on XJ according to Bilstein) Bottom out full droop before my coils unseat. I'm about or just under 4" lift.
 
md21722 said:
I would've hoped I could look up the ARB chart for the XJ and buy the right shock for the lift and experience pure bliss. LOL. As I understand it, your shocks had 3/4" down and 7-1/4" up with the lift kit? So it would have been more like 3-1/4" down and 4-3/4" up without the lift kit?
Click to expand...

Yes, I think those numbers are about right.
What I did was home-brew some front shock spacers to raise the lower mount a bit and I bought Zone Offroad's lower shock mounts for the rear axle. Nothing but good to say about both solutions: ride is improved with restored down travel and I'm running off the shelf shocks (which are fine for me) for a stock height XJ. More ground clearance in back, too.
Of course, you could also drop 475 or so on Fox IFP shocks for a lifted XJ.
 
md21722 said:
I'd do 3" if I felt it'd ride better/ moother on rough roads.
May seem dumb, but with the 2" I'm pretty happy.
QUOTE]

You are not going to gain much going from 30"s to 31"s or adding another inch.
If you are happy with it, just get some better shocks and drive it.
At least wear the tires out before upsizing.

31"s, on a 2" lift, is very doable if you are willing to trim a little and to adjust the bump-stops to prevent bottoming.
Ran mine that way for along time.
You can adjust the shock mounts to regain full suspension travel.
Click to expand...
 
The OME shocks are $108 each almost as much as the Fox IFP.

Its a big jump from Sensa Tracs that's for sure.
 
Also, consider some JK Rubi take-off shocks.
 
md21722 said:
I'd do 3" if I felt it'd ride better/ moother on rough roads.

May seem dumb, but with the 2" I'm pretty happy.

I had a 1990 Range Rover Hunter Edition in the past and you could pretty much drink coffee out of a mug on some of the dirt roads that hadn't been graded in 30+ years. That was all mechanical with a big self leveling shock in the rear and no sway bars (from the factory).
Click to expand...
If the ride is that important, look into some drop brackets.

To the question at hand, I have run 31" tires with my budget boost, with stock wheels and minimal rubbing. I have adjusted my driving style to adapt to a reduced turn radius.

I have installed:
Adjustable track bar.
Sway bar disconnects for the front, removed the rear sway bar.
Shocks for a 3", or 3.5" lift (don't remember).
Two inches of bump stop to protect the shocks.
Longer brake line in the rear, relocated the hard lines up front.

I almost hate to change the combo, but want more ground clearance.
 
I find quality shocks and proper shackle angle(shackle relocators) make the biggest difference in ride quality for the money. If it were me I'd go 31's with your current lift and trim/bump stop accordingly. Buy some quality shocks and do shackle relocators on the rear.
 
I've got a 2 inch lift and 31 inch general grabber at's. With a hockey puck on either side in front, WJ LCA's, and stock wheels I have zero rubbing on the fenders and minimal rubbing at full crank on the control arms. I have a "96 with the older style stock flares which IIRC the "97's also have. The newer body style up through the "01's is probably less forgiving.
 
Slave2theXJ said:
Do you have a pic of your truck? I'm right about to buy tires for the xj for the winter and year round use and I'm looking at some bfgoodrich all terrain ko and I'm debating between 30 inch or 31, I already have a 2 budget lift, spaces and shackles.
Click to expand...

if you have a 2" lift you can do it the easy way and get 30x9.5x15 BFG A/T KO's. they are only an inch taller than 235/75 R15 and not really any wider. The 235/75 R15 fit fine on stock ride height. At 31x10.5x15 people start regearing, adding rear discs, beefing up the steering and so forth. when i bought my 97 XJ it had 30x9.5x15 BFG A/T KO's and a 2" budget boost. i put 2.5" OME on it and just put a new set of 30x9.5x15's BFG A/T KO's on it yesterday. the only problem with BFG A/T KO's is that they can last a LONG time so if you aren't sure wait. on my 01 XJ with mostly highway miles I could get upwards of 90,000 miles on them.
 
I love how people act like 1" is going to be the difference between leaving everything else stock and rebuilding the entire rig. With any wheeling I would beef up the steering box mounting area as the unibody is prone to cracking at that point and inner and outer plating is cheap insurance. I've seen people wheel for years on stock gears and as large as 35's, optimal no but running stock gearing and 31's is fine. Rear disc's weren't necessary on 35's before I went to bigger axles, buy quality pads and shoes and the xj brakes are more than adequate for 31's. All that being said, a 1" difference in tire size may never make the difference between making an obstacle and not making it. On a side not, a locker will. Rather than more lift, throw a lunch box locker in the rear and either stock with 30's or trim to fit 31's and your rig will be far more capable than an extra 1.5" of lift would provide.
 
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