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33" vs 35" On stock drivetrain?

X

xriide

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Edmonton
I read lots about how 35" tires will break stock axles, and sometimes other parts of the drivetrain. But why? Is it because of the extra weight of the tire?

I was thinking extra leverage, but a 31" super swamper is going to be able to put out more leverage than a 35" MTZ just because the swamper will grab like a mofo.

Or is the breakage more of when you end up in a situation that the tire is allowed to freespin at higher speed and then instantly catches a bunch of grip?

Just trying to understand a little more so I can decide if I want 33" or 35" tires.
 
Inertia, centrifugal force, and skinny pedal all break axles.

Open diffs are less susceptible but do break.

33" seem to be the best all around size, but 35s are doable if you know how to drive with them. There are other factors as well but most will tell you to "search" first.
 
xriide said:
I read lots about how 35" tires will break stock axles, and sometimes other parts of the drivetrain. But why? Is it because of the extra weight of the tire?

I was thinking extra leverage, but a 31" super swamper is going to be able to put out more leverage than a 35" MTZ just because the swamper will grab like a mofo.

Or is the breakage more of when you end up in a situation that the tire is allowed to freespin at higher speed and then instantly catches a bunch of grip?

Just trying to understand a little more so I can decide if I want 33" or 35" tires.
Click to expand...
define "stock drivetrain"... because both are going to suck if you do not regear appropriately.

i dont think you understand how leverage works, but as highspeed said, there are many contributing factors. another one is the multiplication of forces, namely torque, that occurs when running deep gears in the diffs.

highspeed said:
Inertia, centrifugal force, and skinny pedal all break axles.

Open diffs are less susceptible but do break.

33" seem to be the best all around size, but 35s are doable if you know how to drive with them. There are other factors as well but most will tell you to "search" first.
Click to expand...

i agree with the open diff comment, but i dont. i have seen open diffs blow up shafts and ring gears because the driver needs wheel speed to overcome an obstacle while i can crawl it with my locked axles.








in the end... if you want to run 35s, its a much larger hurdle to jump than stepping up to 33s.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
define "stock drivetrain"... because both are going to suck if you do not regear appropriately.

i dont think you understand how leverage works, but as highspeed said, there are many contributing factors. another one is the multiplication of forces, namely torque, that occurs when running deep gears in the diffs.



i agree with the open diff comment, but i dont. i have seen open diffs blow up shafts and ring gears because the driver needs wheel speed to overcome an obstacle while i can crawl it with my locked axles.








in the end... if you want to run 35s, its a much larger hurdle to jump than stepping up to 33s.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's what I meant about the open diff. I have seen open diffs destroyed because both(or all 4) wheels hit something at the same time and boom!
 
I have lunch box lockers front and rear.
And don't plan on regear. So 3.42 or whatever it is with a D30 and 8.25.

Just seems like in 4 low the extra gearing doesn't (or shouldn't) make much difference, and I only drive it to get to wheeling.
I don't get why both would suck without gearing.

I've been searching lots, but it's hard to search for because well it's hard to search for.


Inertia would be my weight comment, and centripetal forces is kind of a fake force, but I know what you are saying.
 
Last edited:
I would pick the 33 over the 35 if you're gonna stay stock.

I'm running 33s with my 3.55 gears and have been running them like that for 2 years. It's not unbearable, but the 35s are going to feel like pulling dead elephants down the road.
 
xriide said:
I read lots about how 35" tires will break stock axles, and sometimes other parts of the drivetrain. But why? Is it because of the extra weight of the tire?

I was thinking extra leverage, but a 31" super swamper is going to be able to put out more leverage than a 35" MTZ just because the swamper will grab like a mofo.

Or is the breakage more of when you end up in a situation that the tire is allowed to freespin at higher speed and then instantly catches a bunch of grip?

Just trying to understand a little more so I can decide if I want 33" or 35" tires.
Click to expand...


Its clear you have no idea how tires work. Super Swampers were great tires when they came out in 1970, but that is a shitty tire by todays standards.
 
Never mind
 
thatxjguy said:
I would pick the 33 over the 35 if you're gonna stay stock.

I'm running 33s with my 3.55 gears and have been running them like that for 2 years. It's not unbearable, but the 35s are going to feel like pulling dead elephants down the road.
Click to expand...

Do you feel like you don't have enough power to clean out the tires and keep making it through obstacles?


VAhasnoWAVES said:
its apparent that youve never driven geared rig before...
Click to expand...

It's true, I have never driven a geared vehicle. Outside of when I regeared my Camaro 10 years ago, but it didn't have a low range. And I don't care if it takes me 15 or 30 seconds to get up to highway speed. I don't drive it nearly enough for that to matter.


cal said:
Its clear you have no idea how tires work. Super Swampers were great tires when they came out in 1970, but that is a shitty tire by todays standards.
Click to expand...

What is better than the super swamper boggers then. Mud, dirt, muskeg, no rocks. Keeping in mind I don't care if they only last 15k miles or sound like freight train running down the highway.

But in any case, replace super swamper with a non shitty by todays standard tire.
 
Good Year MTR-K, Falken Wild Peaks, BFG MTR's, Nitto, pick your poison. 33's are going to suck less than 35's without regearing. It's not that it takes 15-30 seconds to get to highway speed, but that you have to drop it down gears to go up hills, etc. Without gearing the rig, it will suck with a tall tire. If I had a dollar for every time someone who wheeled on 3.55's for a few years thinking it wasn't bad and then regeared and was like "damn, why didn't I do this earlier?" I'd be rich.
 
xriide said:
But in any case, replace super swamper with a non shitty by todays standard tire.
Click to expand...

The best 31 is still not going to put more strain on your axles than the worst 35's.

Both contact area and leverage work against that.
 
xriide said:
I read lots about how 35" tires will break stock axles, and sometimes other parts of the drivetrain.
Click to expand...
The bigger the diameter of the tire, the longer the lever working against your drive train.
 
Re: Re: 33" vs 35" On stock drivetrain?

markw said:
Good Year MTR-K, Falken Wild Peaks, BFG MTR's, Nitto, pick your poison. 33's are going to suck less than 35's without regearing. It's not that it takes 15-30 seconds to get to highway speed, but that you have to drop it down gears to go up hills, etc. Without gearing the rig, it will suck with a tall tire. If I had a dollar for every time someone who wheeled on 3.55's for a few years thinking it wasn't bad and then regeared and was like "damn, why didn't I do this earlier?" I'd be rich.
Click to expand...

The wild peaks didn't rate very good in the mud and slop at all, the mtr is hardly more than an all terrain, the nitto trail grappler Mt is probably the best you listed but for ability to grab and clean out suck next to a swamper bogger. They all ride better, last longer, are quieter than the swamper boggers though, all traits I said didn't matter. At the wild peaks appears to be only 37"+

My goal with my jeep is full widths and 40" agro tires (although you probably think those suck in the mud too).
So I'm trying to not put too much money into the axle if I don't need to.

I have no doubts geared is better, but offroad in low am I going to notice? Not many hills around here, but if it becomes really terrible driving to the trails I'll just toss it on the trailer and tow it out.

I feel like with gears it would be easier to break things too.


cal said:
The best 31 is still not going to put more strain on your axles than the worst 35's.

Both contact area and leverage work against that.
Click to expand...

Both tires being 12.5" wide the contact area is hardly different at all.

The leverage would require traction regardless of tire size. No traction then no issues, right?
 
Re: Re: 33" vs 35" On stock drivetrain?

Hypoid said:
The bigger the diameter of the tire, the longer the lever working against your drive train.
Click to expand...
That's a great and simple way to put it.
I must have been over thinking.

Seems like 35 is asking for trouble, for me.
 
xriide said:
The wild peaks didn't rate very good in the mud and slop at all, the mtr is hardly more than an all terrain, the nitto trail grappler Mt is probably the best you listed but for ability to grab and clean out suck next to a swamper bogger. They all ride better, last longer, are quieter than the swamper boggers though, all traits I said didn't matter. At the wild peaks appears to be only 37"+

My goal with my jeep is full widths and 40" agro tires (although you probably think those suck in the mud too).
So I'm trying to not put too much money into the axle if I don't need to.

I have no doubts geared is better, but offroad in low am I going to notice? Not many hills around here, but if it becomes really terrible driving to the trails I'll just toss it on the trailer and tow it out.

I feel like with gears it would be easier to break things too.




Both tires being 12.5" wide the contact area is hardly different at all.

The leverage would require traction regardless of tire size. No traction then no issues, right?
Click to expand...
ya... youve never seen the MTR in action. the KM2 is going to clean out better in the mud, but id still never drive any other tire than my goodyears. (excluding stickies of course).

you may not notice offroad. but your trans will. without deeper gears it will want to hunt for gears, building heat. you will need a cooler of some sort (which i would suggest even for 33s)
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
ya... youve never seen the MTR in action. the KM2 is going to clean out better in the mud, but id still never drive any other tire than my goodyears. (excluding stickies of course).

you may not notice offroad. but your trans will. without deeper gears it will want to hunt for gears, building heat. you will need a cooler of some sort (which i would suggest even for 33s)
Click to expand...

So you're admitting a brand bias is clouding your judgement?
The KM2's are nice, but they are no super swamper bogger in the mud, and I don't know why you are fighting it, the swamper has deeper lugs that wrap farther around the sidewalls of the tire with larger voids. And the bias ply swampers will have better puncture resistance. But being bias ply will stuck on the road.



A trans cooler seems a sound investment for larger tires for sure. And just in general.

Does the 33 being a little less than 10% taller than my 31's give the same 10% more RPM in a given gear for the speed? I feel like I am missing something. Besides new gears.

Never thought the trans would hunt offroad, but almost thinking it does a lot of gear changes now just cause you are never going a steady speed.
 
xriide said:
So you're admitting a brand bias is clouding your judgement?
The KM2's are nice, but they are no super swamper bogger in the mud, and I don't know why you are fighting it, the swamper has deeper lugs that wrap farther around the sidewalls of the tire with larger voids. And the bias ply swampers will have better puncture resistance. But being bias ply will stuck on the road.
Click to expand...

no. im saying i have a jeep, not a pretend BDMT.

the draft angles that will help clear mud on the lugs of the swamper havent been changed since their inception, long before i was even born. they are ancient technology. those tires honestly rely on wheel speed rather than design to clean out. which... your jeep doesnt have the horsepower to generate without gears to make up the difference.

MTRs riddle offroad racing scene, swampers are unheard of. the only way reason they may rival in strength is because boggers are like, Q load rating. MTRs are heavy, but a bias swamper? thats an accident waiting to happen on stock shafts.




it sounds like your into the BDMT thing, so do what youd like. youll learn down the road...
 
hastahasta doesn't seem to work.
 
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