Noises coming from the front end

Howdy, I need some help trying to diagnosis where some noise is coming from my front end. A little info... I have a 93 XJ with a 3.5 RE lift ford 8.8 in the rear w/ LSD. Basically, when I make a sharp turn from a stop, going under 15 mph's, the front sounds like it is binding up and stuff is just rattling all over. The tires don’t chirp, but it sounds like something is about ready to fall off. When I’m under it everything is pretty solid with the exception of the things that have been replaced below. I started by replacing the sway bar bushings and adding quick disconnects still noisy. I replaced all the shocks with BPE’s still noisy, yesterday I replaced most of the steering system; tie rod, TRE’s drag link and track bar, still noisy. My guess is two things, one it’s from the LSD and asphalt combo OR the control arm bushings are shot. After swapping out most the steering stuff it’s not as bad, but still pretty rowdy. Any help is appreciated! Thanks

My guess is front u-joints, depending on what noises it's making. It's really just the front u-joints, ball joints and track bar that should be effected by turning. Noises / weirdness accompanying sharp slow turns are the classic first presentation for steering joints, CV or U.
But let's get some more info, here - what sort of noise? Pitch? Volume? Once, or repeat? Does it happen with the steering, with the wheels turning, or what?

yossarian19, the u joints where replaced when I swapped out the gears a few months ago, so I'm not if it would be those, but i will double check. I did some basic checks on the ball joints and they seem fine. The sound is like a thud, it seems that something preloads during the turn and then thud, thud, thud, preload thud thud, thud. It will only do it when I'm trying to make a sharp turn like a U turn. If it's just normal driving or a normal turn it is barley noticeable. It's a pretty loud inside the cab and you can feel the thud on the floor board. Another thing is the guy I bought it from had a LSD in the front and when I swapped out the gears I had to get a bigger carrier. I can't remember if the mechanic left the LSD in there or if we had to swap out new spider gears.

is this at all times or only when 4WD is activated? Is it worse when in 4WD?

Track bar bracket? I understand you replaced your track bar but maybe take a look at the frame side end of it and see whats going on up in there. Maybe mount a camera, like a gopro. That's what I've done in the past to identify things I didn't know were there before while driving/offroading

I vote front axle ujoints as well

smokeyyank said:

yossarian19, the u joints where replaced when I swapped out the gears a few months ago, so I'm not if it would be those, but i will double check.

Click to expand...

My repeated and painful experience is that the common causes of a given symptom are, usually, the culprit - regardless of whether the suspect part has been replaced recently or not. In other words, just because you replaced the U-joints a few months back doesn't mean they are any damn good today.

Of course, now that I've said all this, watch it be something totally different...

The presence of an LSD, front or rear, does give me pause.
I don't think it should matter in the front if you aren't in 4wd (I've been wrong before, though)
In the rear if you don't have the right friction modifier in the gear oil it may not be releasing properly or allowing enough side-side speed variation, which could (in theory) present like what you are describing.
So, I'm back to the same two basic tests I always give people with driveline issues.
Put the car up on jack stands under the axles so everything is at ride height but the tires are off the ground.
Put it in 4wd, engine running & trans in gear.
Turn the wheel lock to lock & see if you can see / feel anything going on. Since the rear wheels are off the ground the LSD won't be in play. You're down to looking at things in the front end.
If this doesn't help point anything out, pull one driveshaft & drive around. If the problem is solved with a driveshaft missing from the equation, you know which end to look at. You can pull the rear driveshaft and drive in 4wd, but only in "part time" 4wd.

Only does it in 2wd and the track bar bracket was replaced with a new IRO double shear one. I may try pulling out the drive shafts to get a better idea. Thanks for the replies!