• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Sheared/Broken Rear Leaf Spring [Front] Bolt - Extraction Advice Needed

beasticles

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Northern VA
I installed my RE 3.5 lift on my XJ a few months ago. Recently, I noticed the front bolt on the rear leaf (driver's side) appear to be walking itself out (backing out on its own). That explains the loud popping I hear when the rear axle rolls over uneven terrain at anything other than a straight forward angle.

I actually thought at first that the weldnut on the inside of the frame had detached and somehow the bolt worked its way out of the nut - nope. The bolt that goes through the leaf spring bushing and into the frame sheared in half.

So I can pull out the half of the bolt (the part with the hex head on it) no problem. I purchase a replacement bolt from the dealer (don't want to mess with a bolt from home depot since this bolt in particular is like grade 10 or 11 or something).

How do I extract the other half of the bolt that is still screwed into the weldnut in the frame?

The problem is that I can't likely drop the leaf spring out of the way since half of the bolt is firmly planted into the center of the bushing. That being the case, is my only option to cut the bolt close to where it enters the frame (between frame and bushing), drop the leaf spring down out of the way, and then either drill it out, or, cut a whole in the frame underneath the weld nut and try to knock the tack-welds off the nut so it is loose and hopefully just falls out of the frame? What a PIA. Am I on the right track here - any other easier options?

I wish I could figure a way to drop the leaf spring out so that I could get a bolt extractor or pipe wrench on the threads of the sheared bolt and back it out that way - but I don't think that is in the cards since the half of the bolt sticking out of the frame is blocking the bushing from moving.

Appreciate any feedback. Damn XJ :flamemad:
 
I would try a sawzall blade between the mount and bushing, to cut the bolt. That would allow you to drop the leaf. Then you would have to drill out the bolt and extract it. If that doesn't work I would cut the leaf hanger box out and weld in upgraded boxes.
 
Yes, and yes, but...

The material that forms the bracket is not that heavy. I would drive a wedge between the leaf spring and outer portion of the bracket to bend it away from the leaf spring. After gaining clearance from the outer part of the bracket, I would place the wedge between the spring and inner part of the bracket, to move the spring out, and then cut the bolt. Hopefully, this will leave enough of a stub to grab with some vice grips. If not, I'd weld a nut to the stub and turn it out.

To bend the outer part of the bracket back in... I'd let the new bolt do that job.

HTH
 
Yes, and yes, but...

The material that forms the bracket is not that heavy. I would drive a wedge between the leaf spring and outer portion of the bracket to bend it away from the leaf spring. After gaining clearance from the outer part of the bracket, I would place the wedge between the spring and inner part of the bracket, to move the spring out, and then cut the bolt. Hopefully, this will leave enough of a stub to grab with some vice grips. If not, I'd weld a nut to the stub and turn it out.

To bend the outer part of the bracket back in... I'd let the new bolt do that job.

HTH

Thank you both for the advice. I hadn't thought of this method and will try this first. I'll probably need an 18"+ crowbar to do this, correct? I have a 12" HD crowbar but I don't know if that will be enough leverage.

BTW, for future people searching this thread I forgot to post up the part# for the bolt, which I found here:

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/leaf-main-eyebolt-size-106814/

Excerpt from that thread:

"The front fixed eye of the rear leaf spring uses an attaching bolt with a hex head which is a available from your friendly Chrysler dealer under part number 34202118 The thread spec. is M 14-2.0 and it is a Class 9.8 hardened fastener. Do not substitue any other fasteners in place of the O.E.M. part, since there are no subsitutes acceptable.

The same part number is used for attaching the shackle end eye of the rear leaf spring to it's respective shackle."
 
It's a class 10.9 and also used for the front lower control arms.

I like the ideas mentioned so far. A less ideal option requires destroying the spring. Cut through the eye and through the bushing down to the bolt.

You may be able to find some long ex-outs and a long enough drill bit to make it work.
 
Thank you both for the advice. I hadn't thought of this method and will try this first. I'll probably need an 18"+ crowbar to do this, correct? I have a 12" HD crowbar but I don't know if that will be enough leverage.
One of these:

splitting_wedge_steel.jpg


Just watch for the SOB to fall on you while you are working.
 
Just an update on this guys - I followed hypoid's advice and used a 36" pry bar to bend back the outer wall of the front leaf spring shackle box to leave about a 3/8" gap between the shackle box wall and the leaf spring bolt. I then used the pry bar to pull the leaf spring out (towards the exterior of the car) and luckily the leaf spring bushing (and the leaf spring itself) popped off the sheared bolt.

I lucked out here because the shear in the bolt was very close to the where the bolt threads through the frame, allowing me to "slip" the leaf spring off the sheared part of the bolt.

I then was luckily able to back the sheared part of the bolt out with locking pliers/vise grips. Re-assemble was straight forward.

Took about an hour but definitely not as bad as I expected. Hope this helps someone.
 
Back
Top