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NP231 T-Case Slips Out of 4HI - Gets Stuck in 4LO (AA SYE installed)

beasticles

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Northern VA
I have waited a while to post this because so many people have similar problems and it is usually the t-case linkage needing adjustment or the internals of the t-case needing attention. However, I have searched and searched, and I have collectively over 6 hours of t-case adjustment time on my XJ in without fixing the issue. I am this close to taking into the shop :scared:, so I figured I would post up the issue before doing so to see if any of you have ideas.

I installed my Advanced Adapters SYE and Adam's Driveshaft in my 2000 automatic AW4 XJ with an np231 with a RE 3.5" superride lift back in March. First time doing an SYE. It went surprisingly well. I have put about 2,000 miles on the Jeep since the install and everything works great - it got rid of my driveline vibes - all seems solid.

I have only had this XJ since February. I only tried out the 4wd twice before the SYE install - once test driving and once on a snowy day. I say this because I am not familiar with how the transfer-case shifter behaved before installing my SYE.

After installing me SYE I tested shifting into 4wd. Being used to a manual TJ (my prior vehicle), where the transfer case would shift into 4WD at any time (didn't have to be in neutral), like an idiot I tried to shift into 4wd in the XJ while in 'drive' (not in neutral like you're supposed to I came to find out) and it wouldn't shift into 4HI. Instead of checking online like I should have done, I tried a few more times to force it and finally it "jammed" into 4HI while in drive. I also managed to "jam" it into 4LO. I drove it in both 4HI and 4LO temporarily and the 4WD operated as it should. I then "jammed it back out to 2HI.

After this, thinking it was strange it was so difficult to shift the t-case, I looked up online and saw you need to shift into 4WD while in neutral. I know you all are going to think I am an idiot - trust me I felt like one. But you live and you learn.

I haven't had a need to shift the transfer case into 4HI since that time. The wife and I were planning to head to OBX a month ago and, thinking I would do a little beach driving, I decided to check how the 4wd was functioning. I found that when I pulled the t-case shifter into 4-hi, it would slip right back down to 2HI on it's own. If I hold the t-case shifter in 4HI, 4WD does engage and operates correctly, but only if I hold the shifter in place. I also can shift into 4LO while rolling in neutral, but then it becomes difficult to shift back out of 4LO into 4HI and 2HI. When I do manage to get it into 4HI or 4LO, the 4WD operates as it should without any bad noises or other symptoms of something mechanical being wrong.

So I looked online and based on the symptoms I was describing, it seemed the general guidance was to adjust your t-case linkage. No problem - I adjusted the t-case linkage following the factory instructions (shifting into 4LO and then adjusting the linkage by loosening the bolt and greasing the shift rod) - no luck. I probably spent about 6 hours adjusting, checking, driving and then repeating the process with no luck. I had my father-in-law hold the shifter in position while I tried to adjust the linkage - no luck.

The linkage underneath the vehicle looks okay visually, and I can shift it into 4HI manually by moving the shift rod under the vehicle.

Short of pulling the t-case apart, I question if maybe I busted one of the bushings on my t-case linkage? If not, what would I have possibly messed up within the np231 by forcing it into 4HI while in the 'drive' gear? The fact that 4WD operates correctly when I manage to get it in gear, leads me to believe it's something with the linkage, but I really don't know.

Any input is much appreciated. There is a somewhat local 4WD shop I trust that I will take it to if I can't figure it out, but would love to save the coin. Thanks for your help!
 
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You don't need to be in neutral to shift from 2hi to 4hi, even says in the fsm, heck you can shift between the two at any speed per fsm, the question is were you still pushing on the gas as you shifted? You're suppose to let go of the gas pedal, shift into 4hi then tap on the gas to make sure it's engaged then just drive as normals. Then going from 2hi or 4hi to 2lo you are suppose to be going 3mph and shift the transmission to neutral then shift the Tcase to 4lo the shift the transmission to drive.
My guess is the jamming you did busted something inside. The only time neutral is needed is going in to 4low, there is no need for it going between 2hi and 4hi
 
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You bent the bracket and or linkage.....
 
Thanks for the replies. I feel it is more likely I bent the linkage as well. I will try to post up some pictures tomorrow to show you what it looks like.
 
I would recommend the boostwerks aftermarket linkage, Anyone who has used that or other similar linkage in place of the factory mess has said any issues they may have had between the T-case gears are gone.
 
I would recommend the boostwerks aftermarket linkage, Anyone who has used that or other similar linkage in place of the factory mess has said any issues they may have had between the T-case gears are gone.

Novak ..... FTW:cheers:
 
I would recommend the boostwerks aftermarket linkage, Anyone who has used that or other similar linkage in place of the factory mess has said any issues they may have had between the T-case gears are gone.

Thanks for the recommendation! Looks like a solid alternative to the stock linkage at a price that can't be beat. Just placed an order with boostwerks can't wait to install. Will post results. I may still try to post pictures of my current setup just to give people a baseline of what I am working with.
 
Hey guys - just a few pictures of my t-case linkage. The main rod looks bent. I assumed this was part of the design but can you guys let me know if anything looks off to you?


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You don't need to be in neutral to shift from 2hi to 4hi, even says in the fsm, heck you can shift between the two at any speed per fsm, the question is were you still pushing on the gas as you shifted? You're suppose to let go of the gas pedal, shift into 4hi then tap on the gas to make sure it's engaged then just drive as normals. Then going from 2hi or 4hi to 2lo you are suppose to be going 3mph and shift the transmission to neutral then shift the Tcase to 4lo the shift the transmission to drive.
My guess is the jamming you did busted something inside. The only time neutral is needed is going in to 4low, there is no need for it going between 2hi and 4hi
are you sure?
ive always heard to shift Into 4wheel while in neutral....im not about to try it in drive (or in gear because I have both auto and manual jeeps)
 
You don't need to be in neutral to shift from 2hi to 4hi, even says in the fsm, heck you can shift between the two at any speed per fsm, the question is were you still pushing on the gas as you shifted? You're suppose to let go of the gas pedal, shift into 4hi then tap on the gas to make sure it's engaged then just drive as normals. Then going from 2hi or 4hi to 2lo you are suppose to be going 3mph and shift the transmission to neutral then shift the Tcase to 4lo the shift the transmission to drive.
My guess is the jamming you did busted something inside. The only time neutral is needed is going in to 4low, there is no need for it going between 2hi and 4hi

I do believe this is correct.
 
I had a heck of a issue grtting my t case linkage adjusted. I followed factory instructions and still had popping out of 4 low and grinding while shifting.

Found a link where it told you to loosen adjustment bolt. Go back inside vehicle and put a 1/8 drill bit in between the back of the shift lever and the shift gate . Bunjee the shift lever back so its held in place then get back under and tighten the adjustment bolt.

This worked perfect for me.

I understand your linkage may be bent so it may not work for you.
 
Thanks for the input everyone. Since I placed my order with BoostWerks for there streamlined t-case linkage, the old linkage is coming out anyway. I mainly posted this to make sure I wasn't nuts after spending 6 hours trying to adjust the linkage, and also hopefully the pics help someone else who did something stupid like I did and tried to force their 4wd shifter into gear. :rolleyes:

I will post up pics once I install the boostwerks linkage. Looks pretty straightforward.

So that bend at the end of the rod should not be there, correct?
 
are you sure?
ive always heard to shift Into 4wheel while in neutral....im not about to try it in drive (or in gear because I have both auto and manual jeeps)

I shift into 4 hi at speed and in gear all the time. When driving in snow in the mountains sometimes what were 2wd conditions a 1/4 mile ago are 4wd and lockers conditions now, so I pop it into 4wd going 40 mph frequently, just have to let off the gas to let it drop in. You only need to be slow/stopped and in neutral for going into 4 low.
 
Yup, you can go from 2WD into 4HI at any speed while in Drive. However going from 4HI to 4L requires tranny to be in N with the jeep rolling no more than 2 to 3mph. You must be rolling tho. Also coming out of 4L requires the tranny to be in N and at a slow roll. If you try to shift in and out of 4L while still in D you will get a terrible grinding noise and your Jeep will let you know you are doing something wrong. Haha I know this from experience.
 
Ok guys so I put in the Boostwerks linkage this weekend (install was a breeze and the new linkage fit perfectly). Went to test out my new linkage and the np231 is still exhibiting the same symptoms as before. Meaning, I have to hold the t-case shifter in 4-HI in order to keep 4WD engaged. These are the specific symptoms from what I can tell:

Shift from 2HI to 4HI while rolling (trans in Neutral) - The shifter pulls up to 4HI but does not engage 4HI - stays in 2HI

Shift from 2HI to 4HI after rolling to a stop (trans in Neutral) - The shift pulls up and 4WD does engage, but only if I keep shifter pulled up with my hand. If I let go, it quickly pops back down to 2HI/2WD.

So here is the question - is it possible my shift rail in my t-case needed to be trimmed just a hair after installing my Advanced Adapters SYE (more on that subject here: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/unable-put-her-4wd-after-sye-install-89090/). When putting together my t-case after my SYE install I made sure to verify that late model np231s did not require trimming of the shift-rail, but I did not measure and did not trim. I am wondering if maybe my shift rail is just a tad too long which is not allowing for a proper vacuum seal which is the result of the t-case not staying engaged on its own without me manually holding the shifter.

Does this sound like a good possibility? Just for clarification, this is a 2000 XJ with an np231 and AW4.

Thanks!
 
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