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Got impact gun happy - Broke off TC linkage stud on TC case while upgrading to Heims

J

Jonner

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Charlotte, NC
So I made a real boneheaded move today. Fired up the impact gun to remove the nut on the TC linkage that attaches directly to the transfer case. Spun the nut off complete with the stud broken cleanly off inside it.

My first problem is getting the TC lever off the TC. It looks to be corroded on there. I've been trying various pry bars so far, no luck yet. I have it soaking with PB right now. I'm assuming I can't use heat - guessing there's a seal behind there I'd fry.

Problem #1 - Getting the TC arm off the TC
Problem #2 - Repairing the broken stud (drill and tap my only option?)

Before I broke the stud (view from in front of the transfer case, looking back towards back of vehicle):
e66e3c.jpg


Before I broke the stud (view looking towards pass side, laying under driver's side):
b5e317.jpg


Broken stud and STUCK TC linkage arm:
341b14.jpg


The Heim linkage I'm trying to install from member Kingkong0192:
49ab83.jpg
 
Find a buddy with a welder and burn it on. I wouldn't even try to drill and tap that.
 
Welding it on would be easy. I have no buddy with a welder. For a portable welder to come out I'm guessing $50-100.... soooo

Back to the garage, need to the TC arm off first.
 
I always use a big flat screwdriver to wedge them off from the bottom. You can still drive it without the linkage. Make sure it is in 2 high and drive it to a muffler shop. Unless it is not streetable then you would need a way to get it there.
 
Thanks for the help guys, the TC arm popped right off after some soaking with PB and using the pry end of a hammer which fit the space nicely.

I'm looking at tapping that stud with a slightly smaller bolt. If I don't off-road, can anyone see this causing issues? Anyone ever had experience with breaking this stud?
 
I see no way to drill and tap that area with the yoke in place. Let alone the splines for the output shaft in the way. A grade 5 bolt would be plenty to hold it in place. Good luck drilling it. Let us know what you came up with.
 
How easy is it to remove the front output yoke? I've got a good, centered 9/64" pilot hole started. I need a little more access and I think I can make it work.

I have air tools. Is there any preload on a bearing behind the yoke or is just a torque off/on deal with no fuss?

My main concern is weakening the lever selecter piece and keeping the hole straight.
 
Centered 9/64" pilot whole started, about 1/4" deep. You can see the yoke is starting to get in the way.
c5cd63.jpg


The drill bit is all the way out of the chuck, barely engaged so I can get length.
4ef78e.jpg
 
The drilling is going well, and I should be able to tap with a small wratchet wrench as long as I'm careful.

Thinking I'm going to tap as a blind hole, UNDERSIZED, to retain some material where where the stud was before I started this mess

The stud is around 21/64" around = 0.328125"

7/32" hole for 1/4-28 threads, hole = 0.21875"
***I want to use fine threads since I'm not going to have much depth for engagement.
 
Sounds like you got it figured out. I still don't know how you got a drill in there but I am glad to see it is working for you.
 
I would drop the tcase, and take it apart. Its not all that complicated. I bet there are tons of guys around that would have that whole part left over from a case mod or salvage. Why kludge it when you can fix it right. I probably have one in my parts box. See if you can find one closer first.
 
old_man said:
I would drop the tcase, and take it apart. Its not all that complicated. I bet there are tons of guys around that would have that whole part left over from a case mod or salvage. Why kludge it when you can fix it right. I probably have one in my parts box. See if you can find one closer first.
Click to expand...

X2
 
Too late, and I agree taking TC apart is the best solution, but I have 41 days until I move 7 hrs away and the jeep is in 1000 pieces while I still need to pack and move the house. Too much stuff goon right now to take that on!

It turned out really well. For anyone trying this (hopefully no one), the front yoke but was 1 1/8".

The setup for the final drilling and tapping in that space:
8bb75d.jpg


The final result, tapped a little deeper than where the back of the arm goes flush up against the TC:
1cce30.jpg


The area we're working with here:
6867cc.jpg
 
Thats how he got a drill in there....
He lowered the tranny/tcase.....haha
I too was wondering how the hell you got a drill in there.

Im looking to ditch the factory bellcrank linkage too.Is that a homemade linkage setup?
More info.
 
Thought that linkage looked familiar. Scrolled by it real quick, something clicked in my brain, scrolled back up and realized it was mine. Hahahahaha.

That's pretty damn impressive drilling that thing out and tapping it successfully. AFAIK there is no in and out play in that linkage if you have it adjusted correctly. You should be totally fine with a smaller sized bolt holding it in place. It'll really just keep it from falling off.

If you have any questions figuring that linkage out shoot me a PM.
 
outlander said:
Thats how he got a drill in there....
He lowered the tranny/tcase.....haha
I too was wondering how the hell you got a drill in there.
Click to expand...

I saw that he dropped the crossmember as well. I'm glad to see if worked. Now I have another option should I break that stud off. I don't plan on putting a impact on that nut though.
 
THANKS A TON!! !
I wasnt aware of that option.Ive been putting off replacing the stock linkage for awhile because I thought it would cost atleast $150.....
Im ordering today....
Thanks again for the link!
 
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