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Steel Brake Lines

Wayne Sihler

Wayne Sihler

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
Maurertown,Va.
98 XJ Sport,AW4,8.25 stock.
This is the wife,s back up ,for her Ford....So it,s only driven occasionally .
Yesterday,she went to leave and had no brakes,,,,fluid running out at the rear spring hanger area... ruptured steel line
Question,,,,is there a hard line replacement available ? Or just cut &patch ?
Later model owners may want to check the area on theirs,,area at the LR spring hanger and shield for the filter.Other areas of the line were like new.
Thanks,
Wayne
 
I've had to cut and patch many a Jeep because of the rust forming at the connection to the rear hose (ZJ's, XJ's & WJ's). It's really not just a Jeep issue either. Make sure you use flared connections, not compression fittings as they're illegal for use in brake lines.
 
Wayne I don't know of a source for OEM brake line assembly's.

Sounds like it broke just before the hardline/ hose connection.

As suggested, find a place where the line is in good shape, cut it, throw on a New fitting, double flare it, drop in a union and join on another piece to take you back to the hose bracket.

-Ron
 
OK,,,, cut & patch,,,,,(correctly) it is.
Thanks
 
You can safely use steel compression fittings on your brake line we sell them every day at The Napa where I work. for 3/16 compression fitting # 7305X3 The Brass fittings have been outlawed for brake line repair at least in my area of the World.
 
Why risk using a compression fitting when flaring is really not that hard.

If compressions were safe, the.factory would.use them, being the lazy/cheap bastids they are
 
Wayne Sihler said:
OK,,,, cut & patch,,,,,(correctly) it is.
Thanks
Click to expand...

this.........
but i've never had consistent success doing this. if it is crusty enough to create a leak, the rest of the line, and more importantly the other lines near it, are usually really weak and ready to fail. and do, as soon as you start messing with them. look carefully at the project, you may want to plan to replace the whole line between the proportioning valve and the rear soft line.
laying on your back flaring it in-place to make a small patch is always the plan, but i always make sure i have enough material to replace several feet of line if it doesnt go as planned.
 
Just go to NAPA and buy the correct length, already flared. If you don't have a double flare tool, it'll cost you $100+ for a quality one that won't cause you problems.

They lines are easy to bend by hand, and just route the straight line where you need it to go. I broke mine when I replaced the wheel cylinders and found this route to be easy, cheap, and a proper fix.

PS - I bought the flare tool in case I went that route, but never needed it and returned it. Ridgid is a good brand flare tool.
 
Jonner said:
Just go to NAPA and buy the correct length, already flared. If you don't have a double flare tool, it'll cost you $100+ for a quality one that won't cause you problems.

They lines are easy to bend by hand, and just route the straight line where you need it to go. I broke mine when I replaced the wheel cylinders and found this route to be easy, cheap, and a proper fix.

PS - I bought the flare tool in case I went that route, but never needed it and returned it. Ridgid is a good brand flare tool.
Click to expand...

Truth.
I've owned a couple / few cheapo flare tools. They are cheap for a reason. You can get away with them using ni-cop line but steel? Forget it. Buy a Ridgid or stick with ni-cop. Preferably both
 
souske said:
Why risk using a compression fitting when flaring is really not that hard.

If compressions were safe, the.factory would.use them, being the lazy/cheap bastids they are
Click to expand...

you don't think that compression fittings are more expensive than a flare and a tube-nut?
 
If they could get away with it, I think they would use a soldered joint.

Given the actions required to make a double flare, I would consider them very safe as compared to a compression.

Just paid $18 for a swagelock compresssion union today. Then again, I don't want to try flaring stainless with my crappy hf flare tool. Guess I'll have to try it on some scrap.
 
ASE recommends against using compression fitting in *any* brake system, ever.
I don't think going against their rec's will necessarily cause a fireball, but the organization *does* know what it is talking about.
 
souske said:
Why risk using a compression fitting when flaring is really not that hard.

If compressions were safe, the.factory would.use them, being the lazy/cheap bastids they are
Click to expand...

This. The compression fittings should not be used on a brake system.

Flair the line. Just remember to put the nut on first.
 
I would just get some pre fabbed ploy armour brake lines and bend them up for a brake line repair job
 
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