Bilstein valve chart?

Trying to track down a valving chart for Bilstein 5100 shocks, but no luck thus far.
I've got a 98xj with 6.5" lift and roughly 500lbs of bumper. I figure that puts me into stock Rubi weight, and because I couldn't find a valve chart, I went with the 5100's for a Rubi.

Feels awfully stiff. Went from a crappy RoughCountry N2.2 to the 5100, and didn't notice any difference in ride quality. I feel like the shock must be too stiff, but the application weight is almost exactly the same.

Anyone know where to find the valve chart?

If you take off the shocks and it still feels stiff start with different springs.

Well, it flexes real nice. I'm on 35's and I can stuff both wheels before running into my bumpstops, with 0.5" of shock left, and can droop out to the end of the shock, which I believe is around 12".
On the trail, I can bottom out both front and rear without a tonne of effort, so I figure the springs can't be THAT still can they?
Rough Country 6.5" coils and RE 4.5" leafs with extended shackles and shackle drop.

Without any shocks, ride seems a bit smoother.

I'm really just trying to track down the valve chart for the 5100's. Bilstein used to be good about publishing their numbers, but can't find anything now.

Am I mistaken about my choice of shock? As I said, I went with the one they list for a Rubi, as I'm about stock rubi weight with my bumpers and gear.

I'm not sold shock valving is your issue. You said its abit softer with no shock, not a lot softer?

That puts you back to springs or geometry?
What links are you running? Short arms?

Both comp and rebound can cause a stiff ride.
Is it packing in, not dropping out after repeated bumps? Too much rebound.

Compression dampening is not a simple more or less. You can make a shim stack that is soft for slow shaft speeds but stiffer for higher shafts speeds that might normally bottom out.

What do you have for bump stops and limit straps?

at 6.5" lift, your ride will be ass-tastic regardless of what springs / shocks you run IF you aren't running drop brackets or long arms.
So.
Are you running drop brackets, long arms, or is your ride ass-tastic because of your control arm geometry getting jacked up by 6.5" lift?

Running long arms and shackle drop. It's done properly (I think).
Control arms angles are as slight as is possible with 6.5. The lower frame mounts are about 2" below the frame so the arms are pretty close to parallel with the ground. SHOULD be smooth. Isn't.

Bump stops aren't being hit on front or rear, and either way I'm talking about on road performance. Off road it's actually decent. It's the little bumps in the road that kill me. I go over speed bumps like I do my civic and it's still rough. Was smoother back when I was 4.5" short arm.

Tire pressure & load rating?
As you go up in size, you should go down in pressure. Starting with 225/75/15 & ~32 PSI if I recall (I probably don't)
Higher load rating = rougher ride, too.
I know, I'm still not coming up with a valving chart for you...
I'd try calling their tech line and seeing what they come up with. They'll know both what your valving options are and which one you ought to choose.

Yea, will give them a call tomorrow.
I was thinking I should probably let some air out as well, but haven't found any consistent formula or numbers on what I should run.
I'm at 32psi now. I figure I should be safe for tread wear from between 25 and 35, but ya know. XJ's are light, even with bumpers/winches/tools/racks.

I did just realize that the curb weight for the Rubi I'd found earlier was wrong. 4100lbs sounds better. I'm probably only 3600 give or take.
Thing is, it's three sets of shocks all giving the same response. Rough Country I could see ****ing up their valving, as I know they're not entirely competent with XJ's (But they sure do have good warranty. 3 sets of shocks in 6 months and they kept replacing them till I gave up and decided to go with the bilsteins). All the RC N2.0's and N2.2's rode rough, then popped. My RE (remote res nitro) rode a little smoother, but that was before the new lift.
I kinda suspect that the shock isn't the problem, but I just can't find any other reason for the harsh ride, unless RC's spring rates aren't correct. (wouldn't be surprised, may have to measure).

Are you sure your springs are not too stiff? You say you are running Rough Country springs so I would suspect that they are not properly engineered for anything. Also that the leaf spring bolts were not tightened until the Jeep was set on the ground and bounced on some? I had the bolt problem on my XJ where the installer torqued them with the axle drooping and it was twisting the bushings to the limits.

I have 24-185943 on the front and 33-066868(XJ shock on MJ equivalent) on the rear. Rubicon Express springs in the front and stock 2WD leaf springs in the rear. The rear is slightly stiff until loaded up with cargo which is perfect.

All I know is 255/70 is too light for an XJ. I don't care what anyone says.. Try a 360/80 in the front, you'll be amazed at what you can take at speed.

32 psi is way too high for 35's. Should be in the low 20's. My .02.

Fred said:

32 psi is way too high for 35's. Should be in the low 20's. My .02.

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X2. I run between 22-25. When I run it higher it feels like I have cement in the tires. You feel everything.

Smash Hole said:

All I know is 255/70 is too light for an XJ. I don't care what anyone says.. Try a 360/80 in the front, you'll be amazed at what you can take at speed.

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I second on the 360/80 also from what I remember rough country springs are pretty stiff. Nothing wrong with a firm valve setup unless it's knocking fillings out of your teeth on the street.