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Oil Filter boss/housing leak

T

tornadotj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Dallas, TX
I'm hoping someone can help with this issue. I have a pretty major oil leak on my 99 XJ, where the 90 degree boss/adapter for the oil filter attaches to the block. A friend has tried everything he can to get the thing loose, and is afraid he is going to break something. I haven't tried working on it myself as I've been out of town too much lately to get into the garage. Has anyone repaired one of these leaks, and if so what did it take to get that adapter loose from the block?
 
tornadotj said:
I have a pretty major oil leak on my 99 XJ, where the 90 degree boss/adapter for the oil filter attaches to the block. A friend has tried everything he can to get the thing loose, and is afraid he is going to break something.
Click to expand...

The bolt can be very difficult to loosen.
Here is what I do to get into that tight spot.
Take a T60 torx socket, drive the torx head out of the socket and then insert it in a 12mm box end wrench to hold it.
Use a cheater over the wrench to provide leverage.
Pull hard, it is really tight.

Make sure to get the three o-ring kit for the oil filter adapter.
http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Engine-Perf...out&ppcfon=1&gclid=CLKS1rbzkr8CFc9j7Aod81sAOQ
 
Thank you for the detailed information, this is exactly what I was looking for. Not only did you give me the info on how to get it loose, but you sent me the right part number for the o-rings. THANK YOU!!! Looks like I'll be in the garage soon.

I don't suppose there's any way to get an impact in there? I could go look at my 2001 to see I guess. I was just thinking using an impact might reduce the chances of damaging the bolt or head.

I've been afraid to consider using heat in that area. :)
 
Last edited:
tornadotj said:
I don't suppose there's any way to get an impact in there? I could go look at my 2001 to see I guess. I was just thinking using an impact might reduce the chances of damaging the bolt or head.
I've been afraid to consider using heat in that area.
Click to expand...

There is no room on my 2001 for an impact of any kind.
Heat is not an option, too much stuff to burn.
A bigger breaker bar is the answer.
 
OK, just talked to the guy who's doing the work. He said this is exactly what he tried. He said he was even putting his body into it, and it wouldn't come loose. The only thing I can think of that might make it work better is possibly get the engine warm before trying this.

He changed the oil while he was under there. I guess I am going to lose a ton of oil if I am able to get these loose?
 
I used a serpentine belt tool which is a flat bar about 18" long with a 3/8" square drive and a pipe on the end of it to break it free. Did this from underneath. It was tight, but it came loose.
 
On mine I bought a torx socket and welded it to a flat steel box wrench out of a motorcycle tool kit, put a wedge between the wrench and the body, and used a big cheater bar on that. The flat steel wrench allowed me to bend the handle for the best angle. With all that, it was still surprisingly tight and hard to get off. With a three foot handle on the wrench, I was just about to give up, when it snapped free.
 
Matthew Currie said:
With a three foot handle on the wrench, I was just about to give up, when it snapped free.
Click to expand...

The bolt is amazing tight, having a long cheater is the only way I know of breaking the bolt free.
It's worth the effort, a leaking filter adapter can make a huge mess.
 
I have a small related question about my 94 sport. My service manual shows the oil filter boss turning vertical so the oil filter is straight up and down, but on my rig the filter boss turns towards the rear so that my oil filter sits horizontally just above the starter. Is my filter boss out of whack or is the picture in the manual not my engine? Thanks in advance!
 
The oil filter adapters on RENIX motors were mounted so the filter screwed on inverted. The adapter was indexed on later model 4.0 motors to run parallel with the block so the filter was mounted on it's side and the 16mm head bolt was replaced with a T60 torx head bolt. :twak:

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/motor-mounts-oil-filter-adapter-renix-1385/


I HIGHLY recommend welding a nut to the flat surface of the adapter bolt on the late model 4.0 adapter, to eliminate the need to use a Torx style wrench for removal.
 
I removed one @ the JY for a 2nd. to put on No.1 4.0 waiting for refurbishment. On day 1 I sprayed t/ adapter w/ PB Blaster and then went home. The 2nd. day back @ JY I brought a 12mm spanner w/ a ratcheting closed end and t/ T60 bit. I removed t/ oil filter from the adapter also. This could allow you to hit the adapter w/ a soft faced type of hammer to break free of t/ seal/washer enough to remove that combo bolt. I turned that bolt and away it went. ciao.... non English.
 
Last edited:
I use the serpentine belt tool too.

The trick is keeping the T60 square in the bolt. If it starts to deviate, the bolt starts to strip. I usually try to attack them from the under the truck, but I'm spoiled and have access to a lift.
 
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