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ring gear orientation

dsdtdemon

NAXJA Forum User
I'm installing a lock-right in my D30. I realized that in taking the ring gear off, I didn't mark it's position on the carrier. I'm seen this step on a few guides, but I can't figure what this is for. Is there any way to determine the proper orientation, or do I need to have the axle taken in?

Thanks in advance
 
The ring gear is not keyed to any position on the mounting flange.
Tighten the ring gear to the flange in a star pattern at less than the final torque figure, the continuing the pattern, apply the final torque to spec.

As long as you remember which bearing shims go on which side, you should be golden.

-Ron
 
I'm installing a lock-right in my D30. I realized that in taking the ring gear off, I didn't mark it's position on the carrier. I'm seen this step on a few guides, but I can't figure what this is for. Is there any way to determine the proper orientation, or do I need to have the axle taken in?

Thanks in advance

Generally, you want to "match-mark" any rotating parts to make sure they stay in balance (such as removing a flexplate or flywheel, or unbolting a torque converter from a flexplate or a clutch from a flywheel.)

Theoretically, this isn't necessary anymore, it's more of an "old mechanic's thing" (because it used to be,) or something still put in the manuals out of habit. If you don't, no need to worry much about it.

(And, for engines that are timed using trigger notches on the flywheel/flexplate, one hole will be slightly "off-pattern," which will "key" the flexplate into a single orientation anyhow.)

Match-marking is easy enough - I usually remove the first screw, then give the hole a quick hit with a bright colour of spray paint. It dries while I'm working, and then I have a screw hole and spot on the flange marked with white/yellow/bright red/bright blue/whatever to line back up visually - saving me the trouble of keying something in.

Ditto when servicing Cardan joints - clean a spot on each yoke, and mark with a bright colour of paint. When aligning the parts around the new joint, simply line everything up.
 
Glad to be of service :)

To expand (contract?) on Kelly's comments...

I look at it as more of a "Preference" thing, just like getting out a clean rag and lining up all the parts as they come out of an assembly, or bagging all the bolts that come off an assembly indicating exactly where they came from, or taking photos of things as you take them apart. Document on the front end, and you don't have to stumble around trying to figure out what you missed.

When working on unfamiliar things, these little habits get it back together the way it came apart.

Until you are familiar with the equipment you are working on, these things won't hurt to keep in your mental tool kit :)

-Ron
 
Generally, you want to "match-mark" any rotating parts to make sure they stay in balance (such as removing a flexplate or flywheel, or unbolting a torque converter from a flexplate or a clutch from a flywheel.)

Theoretically, this isn't necessary anymore, it's more of an "old mechanic's thing" (because it used to be,) or something still put in the manuals out of habit. If you don't, no need to worry much about it.

(And, for engines that are timed using trigger notches on the flywheel/flexplate, one hole will be slightly "off-pattern," which will "key" the flexplate into a single orientation anyhow.)

Match-marking is easy enough - I usually remove the first screw, then give the hole a quick hit with a bright colour of spray paint. It dries while I'm working, and then I have a screw hole and spot on the flange marked with white/yellow/bright red/bright blue/whatever to line back up visually - saving me the trouble of keying something in.

Ditto when servicing Cardan joints - clean a spot on each yoke, and mark with a bright colour of paint. When aligning the parts around the new joint, simply line everything up.


Gents, hope y'all don't mind if I cut in....to ask Jon ' 5-90 ', to clear his full PM inbox, so I can communicate with him...:)
 
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