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Genright dana 30 upper control arm mount replacement

jonesinxj

jonesinxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Granite Falls, WA
Well, it says right up front that they won't replace the factory bushing directly. So count it out for the driver's side. The passenger's side, you could run one and just massage / replace the pass. side mount.
Really, I think you'd be best off to get control arms with a cartridge joint or a heim joint in the frame end & leave the rubber on the axle end alone.
 
Well damn...not reading instructions got me again... well I guess I'm going with the currie setup and lopping off the top of the pass side upper mount
 
Got welder?
The Currie setup looks good but I don't think I could install it worth a damn with my 90amp box. Might still be stronger than plating in the UCA mount but I just added steel across the back / top and welded it in along the tube.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
the **** are you talking about?

this is the rock krawler joint that replaces the factory bushing on the drivers side. genright is recommending using it with their 3 link.
Click to expand...

Read the "notes" section on the link provided and tell me if I'm losing my crap or not.
 
It says the joint is wider than the stock bushing, so it won't work with stock control arms.

But if you were installing an aftermarket kit (like their 3-link) and wanted to keep the stock control arm mount locations, you install this joint and then run this http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=SUP2120 into the control arm in place of a johnny joint.


Basically it's the opposite of running an axle bracket like this http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=BKT3260 and a Johnny joint on the control arm.
 
Don't have stock arms, but they are stock length. Have some more research to do, going to also look into WJ upper bushings, supposing they are a better design and stronger???
 
yossarian19 said:
Read the "notes" section on the link provided and tell me if I'm losing my crap or not.
Click to expand...

exhibit A:
This is the Rock Krawler machined joint for cast ear on front diff of Dana 30 or Dana 44.

exhibit B:
Bolts into the factory cast ear on the top of a Dana 30 or 44 front differential housing.

the notes are simply telling you that it will not work with arms meant for factory bushings.


to the OP,
a new set of MOOG replacements for the stockers are $15. unless there is a real need to switch to a hard joint and redo your UCAs... id just stick with stockers.
 
go with the currie upper housing kit. you won't have to modify your arms.
 
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