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H.D. OFFROAD ENGINEERING 3 LINK BRACKETS

BRIANHO13

BRIANHO13

<- Yum Chocolate
Location
Spring, TX
Kit comes with everything shown (hardware/heims will be an add on)


Start by assembling the large bracket piece the small bent bracket piece and the lower mounting tab, use your heims and hardware to hold everything together.





Tack weld the parts together.

Add the gussets.







Don’t forget to tack weld the nut on the inside of the bracket (the nut will not be accessible once the bracket is installed on jeep), you will only need to weld the nut to the inside of the bracket on the side in which you intend to run your upper link on.



Finish welding and repeat for second side, you will only need to weld the nut to the inside of the bracket on the side in which you intend to run your upper link on.

I will do a separate write up for installing on jeep.
 
Last edited:
There are two interior flat plates they are on top of each other in that first pic.

Made from 1/4 steel.
 
Yea the welds on these didn't turn out beautiful on these....I was in a hurry. Still no doubt they will hold anything I can throw at them. Like said above welding is up to buyer, I can do it or your can.
 
Can be run on either side. I am running mine on pass side but I had to move axle side uca mount over to clear my exhaust.
 
If I decide not to get on the 3-link bandwagon and go old-school with a 4 link, would that be an option? I would assume so if the UCA link can be mounted on either side.
 
Do these mounts "key" into existing bolt holes / locations on the frame, or are they place-as-you-please?
 
What's the separation between the upper/lower mounting holes?
 
Place where you want on the frame. I think I my try them in the rear.

Separation is 3.5" I ran this separation on a tj and on my xj and it works great.
 
SolarBell said:
If I decide not to get on the 3-link bandwagon and go old-school with a 4 link, would that be an option? I would assume so if the UCA link can be mounted on either side.
Click to expand...


It wouldn't be triangulated, you would probably have to run a wishbone upper or rubber bushings so the bind doesn't rip you rig apart since you would have to keep the trackbar.
 
Not triangulated is fine... Panhard/Trackbar can stay.

Any way you can mock it up on a shop mule as a four link? Don't weld it on, just clamp the parts in place to see where things end up on both sides is my thought.
 
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