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Rear Sway Bar

C

cmahaff

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado/Denver
Hello,

I am planning on installing some new leaf springs. I have a pretty convoluted thread going that's called shackle question, but I have one specific question now about whether or not I should still remove my rear sway bars with these different leaf springs I've decided on.

Crown Heavy Duty Leaf Spring Assembly for 84-01 Jeep Cherokee XJ
http://www.quadratec.com/products/56010_11.htm

I was originally going to do an RE lift and I remember the instructions said to discard the rear sway bar. I am dealing with a 98 Classic

Thanks in advance
 
I just replied to that convoluted thread. :) It is easy enough to re-install the sway bar if you don't like the results.
 
Haha cool thanks. I was getting outta control over there! I have some parts ordered now and feel a bit calmer now.

Good point on the sway bars. Just want to make sure I'm not creating something dangerous.

I got the three parts ordered for the ZJ tie rod upgrade. Nothing but positive reviews of that out there
 
Hmmm you think they'll need longer links with the leafs I've selected. They allegedly add about 1.75.

Now that has me concerned about the front sway bars. The coils I ordered add about an inch. And I ordered .75 spacers....
 
The rear will be fine, the front you'll want to run some sort of swaybar discos if you plan on doing any wheeling. I'd ditch the rear swaybar as its not needed with leaf springs.
 
cmahaff said:
Hmmm you think they'll need longer links with the leafs I've selected. They allegedly add about 1.75.

Now that has me concerned about the front sway bars. The coils I ordered add about an inch. And I ordered .75 spacers....
Click to expand...


They'll be 1.75 short, and change the angle of the swaybar at ride height. so yes.

weld in an extension, easy enough.
 
Honestly I would remove the rear sway bar, like someone already stated it is not really necessary. For the front I personally would not worry about longer sway bar links, 1 inch is not going to make a big difference. Now if you decide you want to do some wheeling you may want to get some quick disconnects to allow it to articulate more. If you are only using this jeep like you mentioned in the other thread then leave the factory ones on there, provided they are in good shape.

edit: Just a friendly reminder those leafs do not come with bushings so you will need to get those as well. As for the ZJ tierod make sure you got one for a V8 zj, that is the solid one, the 4.0 zj are the same as XJ.
 
darksidemj said:
For the front I personally would not worry about longer sway bar links, 1 inch is not going to make a big difference.
Click to expand...
I dare you to ride shotgun while my wife is driving!

When I did my budget boost, I retained the stock links up front. There was a noticeable difference. After I set up my JKS Quick Disconnects to correct the sway bar angle, there was a noticeable difference.

0-Gauge just might know a thing or two. :)
 
darksidemj said:
Honestly I would remove the rear sway bar, like someone already stated it is not really necessary. For the front I personally would not worry about longer sway bar links, 1 inch is not going to make a big difference. Now if you decide you want to do some wheeling you may want to get some quick disconnects to allow it to articulate more. If you are only using this jeep like you mentioned in the other thread then leave the factory ones on there, provided they are in good shape.

edit: Just a friendly reminder those leafs do not come with bushings so you will need to get those as well. As for the ZJ tierod make sure you got one for a V8 zj, that is the solid one, the 4.0 zj are the same as XJ.
Click to expand...

Yea I called a few shops around town as well an they confirmed that I should be able to just remove the rears with those HD leafs. But to keep them around if I ever have a trailer or something.

I intend to push this Jeep to it's limits. So I will be getting some disconnects. Time to search threads for what kind I should get for a 0-2 inch lift. I may have understated before. Some of the areas I have been on can get pretty hairy and I want a vehicle that can handle it with a bit more ease.

Thank you for the info on the tie rod parts and leaf bushings. I should have them both in on friday and will post an update. Man, I keep messing up my thread titles as the subject strays.

Thanks for all your replies. There's a lot to learn
 
Hypoid said:
I dare you to ride shotgun while my wife is driving!

When I did my budget boost, I retained the stock links up front. There was a noticeable difference. After I set up my JKS Quick Disconnects to correct the sway bar angle, there was a noticeable difference.

0-Gauge just might know a thing or two. :)
Click to expand...


Not trying to be rude, but how does your wifes driving have anything to do with the topic at hand?

I did not say there would be no difference but at 1 inch the sway bar will still be able to do it's job at helping prevent body roll. Will there be some additional bod roll? Possibly but at that height I would not be overly concerned. Technically the OP will need an alignment as well to correct everything after the additional lift as it will affect caster as well, and depending how close his jeep is to the limit may put it out.

I never said 0-gauge did not know what he was talking about, but would you like to see my certs and background in the auto industry to prove my knowledge?

Back to the OP. Since you have decided to get discos there are plenty of company's that offer them but JKS disconnects are nice. Here is a link to their site for the ones you would need, may be able to find them cheaper by searching around.http://jksmfg.com/i-13306722-cherokee-xj-comanche-mj-1984-2001-quicker-disconnect-fits-0-1-5-lift.html
 
Yes back to me indeed as I have no mechanic paperwork whatsoever. Haha. I ordered the Daystar bushing set for anti-sway bars. Will I still need that if I get the jks. Is there no bushing needed for the circled area of my picture

y8y3a4eh.jpg


I hope this image isn't too big. I'm using some android app called Tapatalk.
 
that pic right there shows you that even at your small lift, you need longer links. it is bending and will eventually mash the bushings until they fall out. the JKS unit has a bushing in the big round end on top, no need for a bushing or isolator directly on the end of the swaybar.
compare the angle of your swaybar to the one in the JKS pic. yours needs to be tipped up a bit with longer links.
 
Hmmmm I believe when I took this photo it was up on jack stands. I'll need to double check that as you make a good point. I haven't done any of the lifting yet. Still completely stock except one tire size up.

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kit...s.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=101&t_pt=4309&t_pn=R/ERE1130

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kit....aspx?t_c=1&t_s=101&t_pt=4309&t_pn=TER1743092

What you y'all think of these. A bit cheaper than the JKS. I do like the sound of how easy the JKS advertises easy connect and disconnect
 
darksidemj said:
Not trying to be rude, but how does your wifes driving have anything to do with the topic at hand? ...

Technically the OP will need an alignment as well to correct everything after the additional lift as it will affect caster as well, and depending how close his jeep is to the limit may put it out.

I never said 0-gauge did not know what he was talking about, but would you like to see my certs and background in the auto industry to prove my knowledge?
Click to expand...
I appreciate you not wanting to be rude.

My wife is a crappy driver as she blasts down the highway, oblivious to the laws of physics. That is how I can state there is a noticeable difference with minor adjustment. Sadly, your education and experience won't make her a better driver. I prefer to tighten up the suspension for her last-second maneuvers.

Good catch on the alignment, it is money well spent. What other adjustments have not been mentioned?

I went with slightly longer shocks, and bump stops to protect them from bottoming out.

I re-positioned the front hard lines, so the flexible brake lines won't become limiting straps. Installed a longer flexible line out back. Now, the parking brake cables are the limiting factor.

I got tired of replacing the stock track bar, and eventually did replace it with an aftermarket product. Both ends rotate around their respective bolts.

What else... :dunno:
 
I found the JKS locally for a pretty good price. I think I might rock those. You guys think the 0-1.5" will be OK for this set up, which is supposed to yield 1.75?

Bump stops eh. I'll talk to the guy at the shop about that. I think I'm finally about done piecing this together. I will post some pics of stuff once I get started.

Hypoid, what track bar did you buy?
 
There will be little details that pop up after you start driving your new springs.

I bought a used RE 1600 from a local member. I did not like the frame side mounting system. Being cheap and handy, I did some welding on my stock bracket to work like the one on the right:

image018.jpg


You can buy a manufactured set here: http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/cart/hardkor-track-bar-conversion-cures-death-wobble-p-1017/

Naturally, there are many other brands that will secure the frame end of the track bar in a similar manner.
 
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