• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Front brake caliper locking when hot

truckeejeeper

NAXJA Forum User
Ok- So the other day my front drivers side brake caliper locked on so tight I couldn't move the jeep. It was a super hot day and I was driving on the freeway, tapped the brakes then felt I was having trouble moving forward. Had to pull over, rest, then pulled it off freeway when I locked up completely. Let it sit for a few hours then drove it to a local shop. It seems to happen when hot, which I read may be a problem with brake lines. Shop is saying that the steering knuckle is worn there is an 1/8" groove and should be replaced. As well as a new caliper (and may pads of course I let go too far, but not to nothing..) Anyway, I'm thinking I can get a away with just the lines and pads, MAYBE a caliper but maybe not. Thoughts? Since brakes work when cool I don't think its the caliper. How big a problem is the groove on the steering? Shop sez they won't guarantee work unless I do the steering knuckles. I'm pretty far from home unfortunately and need to get this fixed. Sry for long post so thxx y'all

1991 Sport 5sp 4.0HO
 
I MIG welded that notch and filed the spot weld down flush. Been fine for about the last eight years or so. Weld it hot, on a high setting and burn the weld in good. Clean it down to bare shinny metal before welding. That knuckle on the early models is low carbon cast and welds OK, it is almost steel and not like black cast.

Various reasons for the brakes to lock up like that. If the caliper is sticking on the mounting bolts (pins) the pads and caliper may overheat, it should be free floating. They are stiff when trying to move the caliper on the pins, but the caliper has to move. A sure tip off is when one pad is worn almost completely and the other pad still has meat on it. Check out the mounting holes on the caliper and make sure the bushing isn't twisted up in there and/or full of crap. I'm not sure if the 91 has the Teflon sleeve inside the caliper mounting bushing or not, if it does it may be knotted up in there jamming the caliper on the pins.

People have been known to bend the caliper mounting bolts (pins) or cross thread them. Which has basically the same outcome as the caliper being stuck/jammed on the pins and not moving. The inner pad rubs too much and makes excessive heat.

The calipers sometimes get rusty in cylinder bores on the inside from bad brake fluid (water) and/or the dust seal rips and mud or whatnot gets between the piston and the bore from the outside (happened to me, locked the caliper down solid).

The rubber brake lines can separate on the inner layers and it can keep the piston from relaxing when the pedal is released.

Not a bad idea to purge all the old brake fluid out, there may be moisture in there. Moisture mixed in with the fluid corrodes the inside of the brake system and can even turn to steam, which may be another reason for the brakes locking up on you.

Those pads can get really hot, the heat transfers to the caliper. I've had bonded pads get so hot the bonding (glue) let loose and the pad separated from the base. I had one pad separate from the base and fall out onto my driveway, shortly after a hundred mile an hour bonsai run up the autobahn. I heard the pad go "tink" on the inside of the rim as I was walking away, I went back for a look see and noticed the pad laying there. That could have gotten real interesting backing out of the driveway the next morning if I hadn't noticed.
 
Last edited:
Also, are they are good aftermarket parts I should use or is OEM all good? I mean I got 250k out of what was on there. But when I upgrade I like to put on better stuff..

I usually stick with name brands, like Bendix or Raybestos (and few others). Nothing exotic, just a company that has been around for awhile.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I will try to weld up this spots. Any other tips on the welding. Shop won't do it since it's cast so I guess will borrow my bro-in-laws miller and do it myself, doesn't look too hard. Seems lots of people weld to them.
 
In addition to welding the knuckle Replace the caliper, pads and rotor. It's cheap insurance. Calipers are only like 19$ anyway. I wouldn't compromise with brakes
 
Replace the caliper, pads and rotor, and the soft rubber brake lines.
 
Back
Top