• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

I know, I know: 96 booster question

JeepZiggy91

NAXJA Forum User
Location
bullhead city
So im looking at rockauto's catalog and its giving me three options. One of which says engine vin "s" with vacuum booster rod code 19902. Can anyone tell me if this is the booster I need? Itll be going in an 89 renix.
 
Why are you putting a 1996 booster in a 1989 XJ? My guess is that all three of the boosters are interchangable, only difference being source.

It's an upgrade to dual diaphragm. much better braking.... 99 m.y. is even better.
 
So im looking at rockauto's catalog and its giving me three options. One of which says engine vin "s" with vacuum booster rod code 19902. Can anyone tell me if this is the booster I need? Itll be going in an 89 renix.
any of the 3 listed will work

one from a 99 will work better, but you will need a master cyl and brake line adapters as well.
 
I ended up getting it all figured it out.

Why wouldn't I do the swap? I can lock up 37s now. i got it all figured out. Such a difference.
 
Note from DJ
I have a ’88 that has the original non ABC system.
Did you do a write-up on how you figured it out? If so do you remember the link to the write-up?
If not any tips would be appreciated.
 
They are all over the place on here. The one that worked best for me was on Comanche club I think. But its a really simple swap. My push rod was 1/4 in longer than the 88 but I just used washers. And I got a 40 inch piece of bubble flair line and the fittings out of the junk yard and bent up my own lines then double flair the prop. valve ends.
 
Note from DJ
So you bought a new master cylinder and booster for a ‘96 Cherokee and used your existing proportioning valve with new supply lines that that you fabricated from the 40” piece of brake line.

You were able to use your existing brake pedal assembly with the new push rod with no modifications: but because the new push rod was a 1/4 inch to long you shimmed the new booster away from the firewall 1/4 inch with flat washers.

Is that the procedure you used?
Thanks for the information
DJ
 
Yes to all. I had to grind down the push rod where the brake light switch goes though.
 
Back
Top