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No start left me stranded.

Saltyxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
SE PA
Great Friday afternoon gift! 96 Xj decided it did not want to leave work on Friday afternoon. I towed it back to the garage and am going through the no start check list.

  • Here is what I know now.
  • NO Bad fuses anywhere.
  • Pump does not run with key on.
  • FP Relay is seeing 12 volts at the signal wire (86) and the Common hot (30)
  • ASD Relay is the same.
  • All relays show the same resistance when tested with a multi meter.

IF i jump the power wires at the relay for the fuel pump the pump runs full time but the engine still wont fire. (Have not checked for spark yet, no extra hands)

My cheap code scanner cannot find the computer. It previously worked on this vehicle.

I had no symptoms or miss behaving at any point before this no start.

Where do i go from here? Any common issues that cause this, Maybe a bad computer?

All of this is for a 96xj sport with 36,000 miles (not 360k). Stock and healthy up until now!

:helpme:
 
Search for how to test the CPS (crank position sensor). This is very common.
 
Not flooded. when it cranked in the lot the fuel pump did not run. no pressure at the fuel rail unless i bypass the relay and force the pump to run.
-salty
 
Trying to start it only in park ? Try shifting to-N-and try to start.
 
  • NO Bad fuses anywhere.
  • Pump does not run with key on.
  • FP Relay is seeing 12 volts at the signal wire (86) and the Common hot (30)
  • ASD Relay is the same.
  • All relays show the same resistance when tested with a multi meter.


My cheap code scanner cannot find the computer. It previously worked on this vehicle.

I had no symptoms or miss behaving at any point before this no start.

Common symptom of a failed CPS. Test it.

If the CPS/CKP is failed sometimes the OBD-II code reader cannot make a connection to the computer or cannot read Check Engine Light/MIL codes because the CPS/CKP has failed.


The most likely cause of it cranks and cranks but won't start up is the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) located on the transmission bell housing. Often this part is also referred to as the CranKshaft Position Sensor (CKP). CPS/CKP failure is very common. The CPS/CKP can stop working with no warning or symptoms and the engine will not run or the engine may randomly stall for no apparent reason.

Crank Position Sensors can have intermittent “thermal failure”. This means that the CPS/CKP fails when engine gets hot, but works again when it cools back down.

Symptoms-
- Starter cranks and cranks but engine won't start up
- Fuel gauge and voltage gauges may not work or display properly.
- You sometimes will have NoBus displayed on the odometer after 30-60 seconds.
- A failed CPS/CKP may or may not throw a CEL trouble code.
- No spark at the sparkplugs.
- Fuel pump should run and prime for 3-5 seconds.


Diagnostic steps to confirm the CPS is the cause of your no-start:

-You should be able to verify a bad cps, by unplugging it, and turning the ignition key to ON. If the voltage gauge and/or the fuel gauge now displays correctly, replace the CPS.
-Unplugging and reconnecting the CPS sensor where it connect to the main harness near the back of the intake manifold usually resets the ECU and if the jeep fires right up after doing this you can bet that the CPS is faulty and needs to be replaced.
-Exchange the fuel pump relay and the ASD relay with one of the other similar ones in the PDC to eliminate these relays as the cause of the no-start. Confirm that the fuel pump runs for 3-5 seconds when you turn the ignition key to ON.
-Eliminate the NSS as a cause of no start. Wiggle the shift lever at the same time you try to start. Put the transmission in Neutral and do the same. Do the reverse lights come on when the shifter is in Reverse?
-Inspect the wires and wire connectors at the O2 sensors on the exhausts pipe. A short circuit from melted insulation or from broken O2 sensor wires can blow a fuse and the ECU/ECM will lose communication.

If you buy a new CPS, get a genuine Jeep CPS, or the premium one from NAPA. Cheap crappy “Lifetime Warranty” parts are often out of specification or even failed right out of the box. They usually also have a shorter service life than better quality parts. Buy good quality repair parts and genuine Jeep sensors for best results.
You must also perform basic trouble shooting of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables and replace as needed. Do the same for the grounding wires from the battery and engine to the Cherokee's frame/body. Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage or poor grounds and the ECM/ECU will behave oddly until you remedy this.

Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector (CPS/CKP)
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CPS Testing
TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 –2001 4.0L H.O. engines
1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness.
2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (See Image). Ohmmeter should be set to the 10K-or-2OK scale for this test.
3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated.

TESTING PROCEDURE for 1987 –1990 4.0 L engines
Test # 1 - Get a volt/ohmmeter and set it to read 0 - 500 ohms. Unplug the CPS and measure across the CPS connector's A & B leads. Your meter should show a CPS resistance of between 125 - 275 ohms. If the CPS is out of that range by much, replace it.
Test # 2 - You'll need a helper for this one. Set the volt/ohm meter to read 0 - 5 AC volts or the closest AC Volts scale your meter has to this range. Measure across the CPS leads for voltage generated as your helper cranks the engine. ( The engine can't fire up without the CPS connected but watch for moving parts just the same ! ) The meter should show .5 - .8 VAC when cranking. (That's between 1/2 and 1 volt AC.) If it's below .5vac, replace it.

The 2000 and 2001 will have the CPS in the same location on the bell housing, but the wire connector is on the passenger side, near or on top of the Transfer case, not as shown in the diagram below. Simply follow the wire from the sensor to the wire connector.
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See my post "CKS Fun" above, recently enjoyed the love! :sure:

I dug around a while and this was the least expensive place I could find to purchase an OEM CKS for my '95. Might consider getting a grommet too if yours uses one.

Good luck . . .
 
When mine did this i removed it, i seen it was covered in oil from a leak i repaired. I cleaned it to see if it would work, it did and has been going strong now for a few years. 3 if not more. So if you have a leak i would remove it and try cleaning it off. Something to try thats free.
HTH
 
When mine did this i removed it, i seen it was covered in oil from a leak i repaired. I cleaned it to see if it would work, it did and has been going strong now for a few years. 3 if not more. So if you have a leak i would remove it and try cleaning it off. Something to try thats free.
HTH

I did the same, I installed a new CPS that failed in short order (a few months). Instead of just swapping in another one, I fixed my valve cover gasket leak and cleaned the CPS, just on a hunch. That was around 4-5 years ago, no problems since. I have no idea why being oil soaked should affect CPS function, but it apparently does. Maybe it is the heat from the hot oil?

Though it sounds like yours has an internal short, because the scanner won't connect. Quick question, does your check engine light work when you turn the key to run (before trying a start)? If your check engine light doesn't light up, that makes it likely you have a CPS supply voltage short, usually the CPS, sometimes the sync sensor.
 
I am dealing with a similar problem right now. the fuel pump only comes on if i bypass the relay, and i am not getting any spark. also checked all fuses and the relays seem to be working as well. however, according to the long (and very informative!) write-up on CPS's, the fuel pump should do the 3 second prime. mine is not. could that rule out the CPS as the issue?

96 cherokee 4.0 4x4, 180k miles.

I'll report back with my findings.
 
So here's what I found. The circuit between b and c was open, didn't even register on my multimeter.

However, whenever I unplugged the CPS, and then put the key in, the fuel pump primed. When it is plugged in, no fuel pump prime.

Someone stop me before I go buy one at the auto parts store... I know I should get the premium one but I need it to run tonight.

Any idea as to what else it could be?

Thanks!
 
One of the other things to check when you're debugging CPS issues is sometimes the wiring on the connector goes bad. I had that happen to my first XJ... would get random no-start (usually when the engine was hot, and would start normally once it cooled off). I cut the connector back about 2" and put a fresh one on, never had a CPS issue again.
 
I just put a new CPS in my Jeep (pretty straight forward swap) and now all I get is a grinding noise when I try to turn the Jeep over.

With the failed CPS I was getting a whir, whir, whir noise, like it was trying to start. Now nothing by clacking grinding noises.

Thoughts?



EDIT - I erased the codes and now it is back to the whir, whir, whir noise and not turning over. Back to the drawing board.
 
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Is the starter spinning but the engine is not turning, or is the engine turning and making the whir, whir, whir noise?

The clacking/grinding could be the sound you hear with a low battery or bad connection and the starter solenoid engages-disengages rapidly. If the engine actually spins but does not fire, that is common with a back CPS/CKS. Sometimes the CPS/CKS is ok, but the wiring harness connector is dirty or bad. I have only had to replace mine on one XJ (1989). I have had to clean the wiring harness connector one of my other ones (1991) about once a year.
 
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So here's what I found. The circuit between b and c was open, didn't even register on my multimeter.

However, whenever I unplugged the CPS, and then put the key in, the fuel pump primed. When it is plugged in, no fuel pump prime.

Someone stop me before I go buy one at the auto parts store... I know I should get the premium one but I need it to run tonight.

Any idea as to what else it could be?

Thanks!
Fuel pump check might be definitive for CPS failure! Good to know.
 
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