broke front driveshaft what should I replace?

I have a 98 auto with a 4.5" lift on 33's, with front and rear lockers. I just put a aussie locker in the front this past weak and whent out for the first time of the year at slade ky. While out I broke a passanger ujoint which ended up tearing the ears off the drivshaft and outer shaft. Now my question is what should I replace and with what. I'm pretty sure I want to keep this my week point. I'd rather break a ujoint and shaft than a ring and pinion. If I go to cromo axles and better spicer ujoints to be stronger than stock would it be stronger but still my week point? Or should I stick with stock axles and spicer ujoints. Also should I consider changing the unit bearing at the same time. Changed it about 4 years ago just not sure if it could have been damaged at all when the axle broke. Not looking for opinions on changing to a 44 or 60 debate. Going to stick with 33's and the 30 just looking for opinions on best options to do what I'm looking to do with what I have. One other thing I also just put on wheel spacers before this trip can they put more force on the ujoints also?

I suggest stronger axle shafts and a sturdy diff cover. That will prevent deflection of the housing while still giving you stronger axles and keeping the weak point at the axles. I would check the carrier for cracks if you are running a stock carrier. The unit bearing is not likely to have been damaged by the broken axle shaft but the u-joints could have been pushed out a bit.

thanks for the reply. I have an arb cover and the carrier is stock. Ill make sure I check it for cracks. I should probably pull it out and check the locker over also. Stronger axles? Should I get chromo axles or something else? I would like something stronger but not strong enough to make the gears the week point.

Chromos and spicer 5-760xs with full circle clips.

don't use greaseable u-joints if you were....they are hollow and break easy on 33's....non-serviceable only....

MrShaft696 said:

don't use greaseable u-joints if you were....they are hollow and break easy on 33's....non-serviceable only....

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My CTM's are hollow and greaseable, I really hope they dont break on 33's. :anon:

sidewaysstarion said:

My CTM's are hollow and greaseable, I really hope they dont break on 33's. :anon:

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those are not in the same ballpark that auto part store u-joints. Im talking napa, pep boys or auto zone parts.....

this is what i mean about the hollow....i was running 33's at the time going easy....

I'd bet over half the failures you see with front U-joints come from semi-circle c-clips. You can modify the axles and put full c-clips on them. You load them and they flex, clip pops off then cap walks out and blam, broken u-joint, and if you don't know what to listen for, more broke stuff beyond that.

Even with full circle clips, eventually the ears will deform so much and give out anyway.

I will say though, I ran 760x joints on stock shafts in a D30 on 35s for two trail runs with a lockrite in it. The carrier flange where the ring gear bolts to bent and had .020" runout causing the R&P to grenade.

The weakest link in a D30 to me is the carrier.

MoparManiac said:

Even with full circle clips, eventually the ears will deform so much and give out anyway.

I will say though, I ran 760x joints on stock shafts in a D30 on 35s for two trail runs with a lockrite in it. The carrier flange where the ring gear bolts to bent and had .020" runout causing the R&P to grenade.

The weakest link in a D30 to me is the carrier.

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Yup, same here. I kept cracking carriers. IMO, for a locked D30 to be reliable I suggest a full carrier locker, a good cover, chromo shafts and 760 joints. (A truss would be good too but I don't think that'd be necessary on 33's.

I feel like an open D30 is very reliable with some 760 joints and a good cover on 33's.

Lowrange2 said:

Yup, same here. I kept cracking carriers. IMO, for a locked D30 to be reliable I suggest a full carrier locker, a good cover, chromo shafts and 760 joints. (A truss would be good too but I don't think that'd be necessary on 33's.

I feel like an open D30 is very reliable with some 760 joints and a good cover on 33's.

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I have also found stock carriers to be very lacking. You can take a scotch brite disk on a grinder and smooth out all of the openings and corners to remove stress risers and that will help but I think stock carriers simply are too wimpy. There are aftermarket carriers that look beefier but I have never used one. If you can spare the coin a full case locker is the way to go.