Transmission Questions

I know this is a bunch, but this is my first time ever pulling a transmission and i want to do it right so i don't have to pull it back out because i messed something up putting it back in.

Long story short, my driveshaft managed to bind, causing the T-case to be violently ripped out of my jeep and thrashing the transmission at the same time.

Just pulled the transmission out tonight.

My main concern it with all the wires/sensors that go to the Transmission and the torque convertor/flexplate area.

1. Do i prefill the torque converter with transmission fluid? Is there a way to test a torque converter?
2. How do i tell if my flexplate is boogered?
3. The NSS. When i undid the big nut i heard the thing ratchet and i saw the adjustment inside the transmission move (i had the pan off.) What does this adjust and how do i know where to set it?

I'm probably missing a bunch of questions, but i'm tired, and i'm going to bed. I'll update this tomorrow. Thanks.

Oh, and some pictures. I didn't realize the entire transmission was cracked from the starter all the way over the bellhousing to the other side making about half the bolts holding it on useless.

yes prefill the converter. there is no way to check converter. your flex plate looks ok in the pictures but being how the trans broke cheap insurance. I copied and pasted the instructions for the neutral safety switch .
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH

REMOVAL

1. Raise vehicle.
2. Disconnect switch wire harness connector.
3. Pry washer lock tabs upward and remove switch attaching nut and tabbed washer
4. Remove switch adjusting bolt
   Park/Neutral Position Switch Removal/Installation
5. Slide switch off manual valve shaft.

INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect shift linkage rod from shift lever on left side of transmission.
2. Rotate manual shift lever all the way rearward. Then rotate lever forward two detent positions to Neutral.
3. Install switch on manual valve shaft and install switch adjusting bolt finger tight. Do not tighten bolt at this time.
4. Install tabbed washer on manual valve shaft and install switch attaching nut. Tighten nut to 6.9 N·m (61 in. lbs.) torque but do not bend washer lock tabs over nut at this time.
5. Verify that transmission is in Neutral.
6. Rotate switch to align neutral standard line with vertical groove on manual valve shaft
   Park/Neutral Position Switch Adjustment
7. Align switch standard line with groove or flat on manual valve shaft.
8. Tighten switch adjusting bolt to 13 N·m (9 ft. lbs.) torque.
9. Bend at least two washer lock tabs over switch attaching nut to secure it.
10. Connect shift linkage rod to shift lever on left side of case.
11. Connect switch wires to harness and lower vehicle.
12. Check switch operation. Engine should start in Park and Neutral only.

Holy crap, that's a new one.

I would recommend a new flexplate. No idea if that one's bent... and the reluctor ring for the CPS appears to have been damaged but it might be a trick of the camera.

If you had posted this a month or so ago I would have had a free one for you, I just 5 speed swapped my red crapcan. I have a stack of them sitting around still but most of them are pretty rusty from having sat outside and been used as jackstand bases. Still, they shouldn't be too expensive on rockauto.com.

I would recommend new engine to transmission mounting bolts as well, especially the left lower one, I wouldn't be surprised if it is bent. The lower bolts are 7/16-14 thread, uppers are 3/8-16. Use washers if not using flange head bolts, make sure they are grade 8 bolts, too.

Here's some data pertaining to engine-to-bellhousing replacement bolts in case you don't want, or can't get, OEM bolts. Pic shows 1988-1996, but these worked fine on my '99.

Independant hardware stores carry Hillman bolts. Call around to your hardware stores and see if they carry Hillman bolts.



Data pertaining to replacement Flexplate-to-TC bolts from the dealer.

If you order bolts under the parts catalog number, they will sell you these bolts. The original OEM bolts are no longer available. Original 15 MM head bolts shown on top, new 18 MM head bolts shown below. Thread length and pitch on the new bolts are the same as the original bolts.



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kastein said:

Holy crap, that's a new one.

I would recommend a new flexplate. No idea if that one's bent... and the reluctor ring for the CPS appears to have been damaged but it might be a trick of the camera.

If you had posted this a month or so ago I would have had a free one for you, I just 5 speed swapped my red crapcan. I have a stack of them sitting around still but most of them are pretty rusty from having sat outside and been used as jackstand bases. Still, they shouldn't be too expensive on rockauto.com.

I would recommend new engine to transmission mounting bolts as well, especially the left lower one, I wouldn't be surprised if it is bent. The lower bolts are 7/16-14 thread, uppers are 3/8-16. Use washers if not using flange head bolts, make sure they are grade 8 bolts, too.

Click to expand...

Just got the flexplate ordered. $89 shipped to my house from Advanced auto. Couldn't find one on Rockauto and that price was totally fine with me.

What exactly do you mean by the reluctor ring might be damaged? Does it look bent to you or just not right?

Working on getting the bolts now. Any idea on the bolts that hold the starter in place? Those things were totally mangled and bent.

One is 3/8-16 thread, unsure on length. The other is metric, I am not sure about anything except that it has a 15mm head. Believe both are on 5-90's site.

The reluctor ring looks sorta... "coned" outward away from the center of the flexplate. Not sure if I'm seeing something or not.

kastein said:

One is 3/8-16 thread, unsure on length. The other is metric, I am not sure about anything except that it has a 15mm head. Believe both are on 5-90's site.

The reluctor ring looks sorta... "coned" outward away from the center of the flexplate. Not sure if I'm seeing something or not.

Click to expand...

Will go take a look over there.

Do you happen to have another reluctor ring sitting around or know where i can get one?

It's part of the flexplate - that's part of the reason I suggested replacing it. Since you have a new one on the way you're good to go.

Just got my flexplate. Does this look correct? (Pictures at the bottom)

Few questions for when i go to put this transmission back in.

1. I know i pre-fill the torque converter with transmission fluid. How much do i add to it? Literally until it's coming out or what?

2. I've read to put the torque convertor in the tranny and then put that onto the motor and bolt the torque convertor to the flex plate. Is that correct?

4. Going to go searching for it, but i figured i'd put it here as well. Does anyone know the torque specs for the bolts that hold the flexplate to the crank and then the torque specs for the flexplate to torque convertor bolts? Also do i loctite these?

3. Any other tips/tricks i should know?

1. Yes. Fill it, wait a few minutes, slosh it around a little, fill it again till it comes out. BTW, put a transfer case on the ass end of the tranny, stand it upright and drop the converter into it, spin and wiggle till it seats fully. It'll drop further in a few times, if you don't seat it properly it'll smash the input pump gear the second you start tightening the bellhousing bolts.
2. Yes that is correct. If it's not isntalled in the tranny and seated properly, it'll break the transmission almost every time.
3. not that I can think of. Leave the CPS off till it's bolted on, it's easy to smash them trying to get the bellhousing lined up, and make sure both hollow dowel pins are on the lower bolt holes on the engine (and lined up with the blockoff plate) before you install the tranny.
4. I think it's 25 foot pounds on the flexplate to converter bolts, but double check that. IIRC flexplate to crank is 105 foot pounds, but again, check that too. Make sure you put the weird 6 hole giant washer thing over the flexplate and under the bolts, not under the flexplate too. Loctite won't hurt on the converter bolts, I would not use it on the crank bolts though.

couldn't you just change the bellhousing? they do unbolt, don't they?

They do, but there's no way I'd reuse that transmission without tearing it down completely and inspecting/measuring every part against a known good one.

With what it went through, there's no telling what is broken or damaged. At least everything in the front half and probably a lot of other stuff too.