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XJ 44 loose bearing race

O

Outlander560

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New York
Hey guys I have an xj 44 recently took it apart to weld a truss on and before I welded the truss on I checked the condition of the bearings when I pulled the shafts out of the axle. When looking at the axle shaft bearing cups pressed into the axle tubes they both were loose. Any one have any good tricks to get these from spinning?

Read a few ideas listed below not sure how well they will work but I'm curious what you guys think.
-Center punch to dimple the outer bearing cup and ID of the axle tube
-Green loctite
-Weld the bearing cup.

I remember a thread from a while back with someone having the same exact problem but I can't find it.

Any help is much appreciated guys.

Thanks.
 
Yep, center punch the HOUSING and don't try punching the bearing cup, all you will do is turn your center punch into a drift punch.

Add green Loctite and you're good to go, just be sure to apply to clean surfaces (acetone or mek) and let it cure overnight.

Unless your housings are really f-ed up, then disregard the above. :bawl:
 
Mine is this way also. I did the ZJ disc swap, installed new bearings on the shaft.. and forgot to do the punch and Loctite 609. I gotta pull it apart now..
 
OverlandZJ said:
Mine is this way also. I did the ZJ disc swap, installed new bearings on the shaft.. and forgot to do the punch and Loctite 609. I gotta pull it apart now..
Click to expand...

The D44 on my XJ have been running like that for some 30,000 miles +. I could insert or remove both the bearings with nothing but my hand. They are not staked. Neither did I use Loctite. I see no evidence of problem so far so I quit worrying about them.
 
I've torn 3 down know and they have always been in there a bit loose. I do believe that the bit of preload on the seal and bearing,when torquing down the retaining plate, holds them in place good enough.
 
I just pulled a XJ Dana 44 apart and the races were also loose. I removed them from the housing by hand which had me concerned. I talked to a local gear guru and was assured that most if not all 44's are the same and it is not a problem. I'm just going to put it back together and run it.
 
I was thinking about this thread today and remembered that one of the Dana 44's that I had worked on was out of a 1987 MJ pickup. The wheel bearings were the none tapered type with the bearing race being a permanate part of the bearing assembly. I still have these shafts in my garage since I upgraded those. I'll try to post a pic.
 
techno1154 said:
The D44 on my XJ have been running like that for some 30,000 miles +. I could insert or remove both the bearings with nothing but my hand. They are not staked. Neither did I use Loctite. I see no evidence of problem so far so I quit worrying about them.
Click to expand...

Tore mine down yesterday. When i rebuilt this axle (XJ44 into ZJ) i made sure the tube end was clean of any burring, i have maybe 50 miles on the new shaft bearings and checked once i pulled them. There was evidence of the race spinning.

The new races are tougher to install into the housing but were free to spin once inserted fully. Used the Loctite 609, without staking, letting it sit and fully cure.

Chasing a drone/noise at about 45mph, dont think it's my tires or rebuilt 242. Hope i found it..
 
Thehowler said:
I was thinking about this thread today and remembered that one of the Dana 44's that I had worked on was out of a 1987 MJ pickup. The wheel bearings were the none tapered type with the bearing race being a permanate part of the bearing assembly. I still have these shafts in my garage since I upgraded those. I'll try to post a pic.
Click to expand...


Lots of guys have posted in other D44 threads where one side was a tapered bearing and the other was a cartridge bearing.. not all that uncommon.

Mine were mismatched as well.
 
I've been running 3 years now on my yj Dana 44 out of a MJ truck.It is a daily driver, hunting jeep.
This time last year I Instaled a Yukon power-lok and went with 4:10 gearing.
All looked fine when I pulled and inspected the shafts and bearings.
The shafts, bearings and seals were all new when I originally Instaled.
 
The outer race-to-housing is a loose fit from the factory. It is not abnormal, nor is it a problem. it's designed that way, no need to stake or glue them in with lock tight.

The taper bearing comes as an assembled unit with a score line for the outer race to separate upon removal. It's also normal to be able to remove the race from the housing with just your fingers.

Put it together and forgetaboutit.
 
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