Problems after power steering pump replacement

2001 XJ with 164k miles. My original pump was starting to whine a little and occasionally the steering would get hard to turn during the summer months. My solution was to replace the PS pump.

I used a NAPA refurb, new pulley (properly pressed on), new lines with new o-rings and new fluid of course. I installed everything according to the FSM and properly tensioned the drive belt with my krikit guage. I then bled the system using the turn-the-wheel-back-and-forth-several-times method.

I am immediately getting a whine from the pump and on a test drive the power steering actually went out a couple of times at low speed. The fluid level is good and not bubbly/frothy and I have no leaks. What is the issue here? Should I spring for a Mopar pump?

I did a pump on a 92 Ford Ranger awhile back and went completely by the book. In the end, the new pump was still making noise as the customer drove away. My foreman told me some pump designs just take a LONG time to get all the air out. I haven't tackled the pump on our XJ's, but I think noise after replacement is rather common. I would try to bleed it again and monitor closely.

I replaced my power steering pump 3 years ago. The first one whined pretty bad and would occasionally loose power steering when parking. I replaced it, and the replacement is the exact same.

It may have gotten a little better over the years, but I've learned to live with it.

Take a vacuum pump to the resevoir, hold it at 15"mercury for a few minutes while someone works the wheel as before, then drive it again.
I do believe a vacuum pump is a rentable tool from most parts houses.

P.S. I have had cardone remans fail out of the box before.


Just cause its new, don't mean it's good.



P.P.S. there is also the possibility that the box is binding

Something they taught us in school (likely before you were born) jack the front up, front tires off the ground and turn the wheel lock to lock a dozen times with the motor off. This is to get a much air out of the steering box as possible before starting the motor and possibly overheating the steering box before the fluid has a chance to purge the air.

They also taught us a few times lock to lock isn't enough to bleed the system. A dozen minimum and maybe twenty times just to make sure. And don't hold the steering at full lock for very long or things will over heat.

I don't actually know if it is the fluid or it is just sometimes you get more air trapped in the fluid, but it can take days sometimes for most of the air to work it's way out of the fluid.

That vacuum pump trick sounds promising, I'm going to have to try it next time.

I've had fewer issues with whining and break in, using synthetic power steering fluid. I've used Castrol, Red Line and LiquiMoly brands. I've actually mixed (maybe half a pint) LiquiMoly synthetic with regular power steering fluid and had the pump quiet way down.

I just did mine about a month ago. 1998 with 130k.

Used the NAPA reman like you. Used the original pulley.

Only difference was, the nipple for the return line was in the wrong place so I reused the factory tank.

Did everything like you did and had zero problems.

So it's possible you got a bad pump.

Applying a vacuum to the steering system is an excellent way to bleed the system. Chry-CO outlines it in a tech bulletin as the recommended way. It's the only way I do it on every vehicle that I do p/s work on anymore. No need to cycle the wheel or anything.

8Mud said:

Something they taught us in school (likely before you were born) jack the front up, front tires off the ground and turn the wheel lock to lock a dozen times with the motor off. This is to get a much air out of the steering box as possible before starting the motor and possibly overheating the steering box before the fluid has a chance to purge the air.

Click to expand...

Another "Old School" way to go is to place two pieces of cardboard under the front tires prior to turning the steering wheel. The cardboard acts as a bearing reducing the chance of flat spotting the tires.

8Mud said:

Something they taught us in school was to jack the front up, front tires off the ground and turn the wheel lock to lock a dozen times with the motor off. This is to get a much air out of the steering box as possible before starting the motor...
They also taught us a few times lock to lock isn't enough to bleed the system. A dozen minimum and maybe twenty times just to make sure.

Click to expand...

That is the same method I was taught. Often, after one session of bleeding, there will still be air and wining, when starting the engine. Run it for a minute or so, shut it down and let it cool.
Many time this is all it needs but some pumps require a second bleeding session, after the pump cools.
A few pumps have required several session to remove all the air, others work great after a simple bleeding. Possibly some systems have spots where air can be entrapped and not easily flushed.
Still, you should do your best to eliminate all air since it can cause cavitation and damage to the pump.

Looking at my A/C vacuum pump and figuring how to attach it to the power steering reservoir. It would be good to find more uses for it

lazyxj said:

Looking at my A/C vacuum pump and figuring how to attach it to the power steering reservoir. It would be good to find more uses for it

Click to expand...

This works very well, but you need to have a catch container between the pump and the p/s reservoir as it will pull fluid along with trapped air.

Much like hand bleeding a brake hydraulic system.

I simply used a spare reservoir cap and cut the dipstick off it and drilled a small hole in the center. I use the tapered attachments from my mity-vac setup to push into the hole and fix the cap to the p/s rez.

So after another test drive, I completely lost power steering at low RPMs. I ended up saying "screw it" and took it to the shop. The local NAPA wouldn't honor the warranty (different store from where I purchased it), and I had to leave town so I was in a bit of a crunch. Luckily I had another car to take.

For future searchers, NAPA steering pumps are just Cardone reman. units. They're no different from the other parts stores' parts. There is nothing "quality" or "premium" about them, despite what the product listing says. Do yourself a favor and buy a new pump.

The Dorman pulley available at the parts stores is actually a quality part. It has been improved over the OEM design (it's still plastic like the stock unit, but more substantial).