ignition Coil keep dying? '95 auto

A shout out for help from the brains trust,
Same symptoms each time thermal related fail,
last oem coil lasted less than 3 months. before that coils not even lasting a year.

will be relocating the coil off the block this after noon cause it can not hurt and its not that hard.
its a 95 auto.
Any suggestions as to what causes premature coil failure?

I would go through the secondary spark system, including
the cap, rotor, wires and plugs. High resistance in any one
of those parts will cause strain on the coil. For instance,
check the gap between the rotor and cap terminals. They
should barely touch as the rotor turns.

Make sure the resistance isn't too high on one or more
plug wires. One wire can have very high resistance and
still fire the plug, although weakly. Same with the plugs;
either change them or check the resistance. They should
have about 5-8K ohms measured from the tower terminal
to the tip. (Wires should be about 12K ohms per foot)
Also make sure the wire terminals are firmly attached to the
wire.

Isolating the coil from excess heat is always a good idea,
but I think you have some other problem causing the
early failures...

Oh yes, don't forget the coil to distributor wire. In fact, that's
the first one I'd check for high resistance or an open, or loose
terminals....

Thank you very much,
Will check it out.

How is your charging system? Have you checked voltage at the battery terminals? Reason I'm asking is, excess heat can be ambient or also generated by too much voltage. You may also want to check the input voltage at the coil, the voltage may not be the same at the battery (which acts like a large condenser) and someplace after the alternator and before the battery.

You may also want to switch your meter to the AC voltage scale, some meters will pick up a bad diode in the alternator and show it as peak voltage instead of DC voltage. You can get a DC reading which appears slightly low and have high peak AC voltage, because of a bad diode. Because of the high voltage the coil can internally arch, overheat and everything is downhill from there. An internal arch in the coil isn't always instant death, it can be incremental and last awhile.

An example would be the use of a, early design after market, coil designed for use with a ballast resistor during normal run and the ballast resistor is bypassed during cranking. And using that coil in a late model without the ballast resistor. These coils typically overheat fast and last a few months or maybe a year if you are lucky.

You can actually use the finger test. If you don't have overly sensitive finger tips you can (almost) hold your finger tip on the side of the coil on a hot motor. A way too hot coil is too hot to hold your finger on longer than a second and may blister your finger tip. After you have finger tested a few coils, you learn quick what is acceptable and what isn't. A coil running to high of a voltage (like one designed for and not using a ballast resistor or one with an internal arch or short) can burn your finger tip pretty good.