Aw4 problems

Ok so, while driving my 2wd 1990 4.0 MJ Sunday I lost at least one ujoint cap and thus lost my driveshaft. It was disconnected at the rear axle once i finally coasted off the highway. The engine died at some point while coasting, when I tried to restart it the starter spun freely, so I checked it and noticed that the bellhousing broke and let the starter drop off the truck. Any ideas why dropping a shaft would cause the bellhousing to break? I'm really concerned about why this happened, doesn't seem to make sense to me. But I am not that educated on the workings of everything.

Yesterday (Monday), I pulled the 2wd trans out of the truck, swapped out the bell housing with a bell housing from a parts 4wd trans from a 93-94XJ. After reinstall engine starts and now the truck will not move in any gear, but park, reverse, neutral, drive, etc all seem to add resistance when you try to push the truck yourself. I am planning on going over to the shop this morning and trying to start it and try to add more fluid and see if it is low still. Is it possible that I did not put enough fluid into the torque converter before installing it? Is there a way to fill the torque converter up more if necessary without removing the whole trans again? Also does it seem possible that the torque converter is a complete loss due to the shaft drop on highway and bell housing break?

The tranny may have tried to seize and that is what caused the driveshaft to depart and the bell housing to break.

Either way, it sounds like it is time to replace the AW4.

If the drive shaft struck the ground (likely) it could impart a shock wave into the transmission/bellhousing and the rest that could easily result in a ton of broken aluminium parts.

These parts are only strong enough to contend with the expected stresses of normal operation plus a reasonable safety margin.

The converter will fill itself.

This is how I install a torque converter:
1) Lubricate the converter hub and oil pump seal lip with transmission fluid.
2) Place torque converter in position on transmission.
3) Align torque converter to oil pump seal opening.
4) Insert torque converter hub into oil pump.
5) Move the torque converter inward, rotating the converter until converter is fully seated in the oil pump.
6) Check converter seating with a scale and straightedge. Surface of converter lugs should be 1/2" to rear of the straightedge when converter is fully seated.
7) if necessary, temporarily secure converter with C-clamp attached to the converter housing.
8) Install transmission on the Jeep.
9)Fill transmission with recommended fluid.

Note here that the straightedge referenced above is laid across the edge of the bellhousing from the bottom of the opening to the upper left (as facing the bellhousing) bolt hole location.

The way I fill is to start with the recommended amount of fluid (16.9 pints) and if needs be add until it stops accepting more.

I have seen cases where the converter was not properly seated into the pump and similar effects as you describe is what was a result. Not saying that is what has happened here but, it needs be considered.

The basic procedure I have lined out here is applicable to any automatic transmission. The Jeep specific value is the 1/2" clearance from the edge of the bellhousing (straightedge) to the mounting lugs. This measurement is taken to ensure the converter is full seated prior to bolting the transmission to the Jeep. At issue here is that the converter will move into the pump even if it is not properly aligned and that ruins the pump...