Good Morning Clutch replacement !

New member here and nice to see an exclusive XJ only forum !

I've been searching for a good shop to do my clutch replacement One is local and the other is 1 1/2 hrs away.
I won't get into naming them just yet , unless some members are close and may know them (Colorado)

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I was referred to the further shop by a friend who had them do his clutch Called the shop owner He told me they have decades of experience in drivetrain / clutch systems.
Now please bear with me as he was giving me alot of info over the phone and it was hard to digest .

We talked for a good half hour. Strives to do the job right the first time and take care of his customers -reviews seem to show this.
He told me that he found a 'flaw' years ago in the standard pressure plates being used for Jeep clutch replacements. If i can recall correctly it has to do with pedal travel /clutch engage /disengage/ pressure plate throw.
It had to do with using the same part across several make/model vehicles.
That a certain pressure plate's throw will not fully disengage the clutch. The distances of 3/8 , 5/16th were mentioned.
Because of this He picks the parts as opposed to just using a standard kit.

Can anyone elaborate more on this ?

I then spoke to a 2nd 4x4 shop that is local, they never mentioned anything about this to me. But i will ask them on Monday.
They would use a standard Luk clutch kit from NAPA

Both shops quote nearly the same price: $900.total.
Clutch, Press Plate,TO bearing, Slave cylinder resurface flywheel if needed .

This info was a curve ball I've never heard of.
I usually always go with the experienced shop /mechanic
But that shop is over 1 -1/2 hrs away and if there are problems afterwards I wouldn't be able to get it back to them.Though he says he strives to 'do the job right the first time' etc etc

2nd shop contacted is only 20mins away, changed hands about 2 yrs ago and is a full 4x4 shop with younger staff /mechanics.

There was also mention elseware in the forum that one should not resurface flywheel. So with all that talk about throw distances. I am now also wondering if i should just go for a new flywheel ?


1992 Cherokee Sport 4.0 5spd 216K Primary daily driver.
Possibly one clutch replacement done in it's lifetime prior to me purchasing @ 134K
Experiencing occasional slippage and hard engaging especially when cold.

Thanks !

Can't seem to edit my post....
Anyways still seeking advice

Ive done 2 clutches (96 and 98 XJ) and both times just used the NAPA kit. Never had any issue from them. The only thing that I found common on both XJ's was that the clip that holds the throw-out fork to the transmission pivot ball opposite of the slave cylinder rod was broken. Dealer replacement part for like $5. Its a straight forward job to do. Just as simple as R&R. Both times I used the pre-assembled master/slave cylinder kit from rockauto and it worked flawlessly (VALEO Part # 5291078). While youre at it, do the rear main seal if you can afford it. Mind as well since its all apart and the miles you have on it.

does the oil pan on a '92- 4.0 have to drop to do rear main seal ?

sturoc said:

does the oil pan on a '92- 4.0 have to drop to do rear main seal ?

Click to expand...

The oil pan on ALL 4.0L Jeep engines has to be dropped to replace the RMS.

Thanks for the info guys

Went with the local shop. It would have been too much to deal with driving 2 hrs hangin out somewhere all day and perhaps the next if he didn't finish in a day.

Local shop did the job in fine style and even found a few things i need to keep an eye on. Some I knew already One I did not: the ol hairline crack at the exhaust header collector pipe right where it goes into one pipe.

And I only had bout 10% left on the old clutch !
New Luk standard Clutch kit w/ new slave shifts like butter.

A bit late now, but I second Redneck's suggestion that you renew the little clip on the fork pivot. It seems to break pretty routinely. It probably is not needed when the clutch is OK. I ran mine without it for a good long while with no problem, but I was a bit nervous about it. As it happens my clutch had blown up, and my bout with clutchlessness damaged the reverse idler on my tranny, so when I replaced the tranny I got a new clip and relaxed. You don't want that fork to fall off.

They used the complete Luk kit including slave cylinder. I'll have to ask them about that fork clip.
Some things I've noticed since this is the first time I've had a clutch replaced.

The pedal is slightly easier to push in and let out.
Clutch engages /disengages a touch lower than before and much smoother.
Not having that hard grab i got accustomed to. But I am taking it easy on it for a while.
Are these normal after clutch replacement ?

sturoc said:

They used the complete Luk kit including slave cylinder. I'll have to ask them about that fork clip.
Some things I've noticed since this is the first time I've had a clutch replaced.

The pedal is slightly easier to push in and let out.
Clutch engages /disengages a touch lower than before and much smoother.
Not having that hard grab i got accustomed to. But I am taking it easy on it for a while.
Are these normal after clutch replacement ?

Click to expand...

I noticed that my new clutch was a bit easier than the old one, perhaps party because the parts were newer, but perhaps also a lighter diaphragm spring. It certainly worked fine. The original clutch in my 99 was pretty fierce.

Hydraulic clutches tend to engage a bit higher as they wear, as I recall, so unless the difference is serious, I wouldn't worry.

thanks I did take it back to them for a double check on it Since shifting thru the gears is a bit tighter and i had some slight grinding gettin into reverse at a full stop couple of times..
I cked the fluid level and saw some flakes of grey stuff not metal though. So they bleed the system again drove it .they said all good.
Guess I just gotta get used to it.
I miss the old days of mechanical clutch assemblys, simple engine/ trans setups of the Muscle cars etc.

Both of my AX15 jeeps dont like going into reverse. If I remember correctly, I'm sure someone will chime in, reverse is not synchronized in the AX15. I normally shift into 5th then down to reverse. That seems to help out a lot.

redneck said:

Both of my AX15 jeeps dont like going into reverse. If I remember correctly, I'm sure someone will chime in, reverse is not synchronized in the AX15. I normally shift into 5th then down to reverse. That seems to help out a lot.

Click to expand...

Reverse is certainly not synchronized, and there's enough residual spin from the throwout bearing and so forth to cause some clash unless you either whack it in with your ears shut or shift first into a synchro gear to stop everything.