D30 conversion knuckles, anyone does this?

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/D30001J.html

The new Dana 30 / Rubicon 44 knuckle will transform late model Jeep axles into true contenders. The Reid Racing conversion knuckles are the cheapest and strongest way to adapt these axles to use early style Chevy & Jeep Dana 44 "outers". Early outers use tapered roller bearings, which eliminates the problematic unit bearings and allows standard lockout hubs to be used. Bigger brakes, more lug pattern options, and better aftermarket support come along as part of the conversion. The knuckles are also flat topped and predrilled for high steer arm use.



Sold individually, installation requires 1 pair.
D30001JL (left, driver's side)
D30001JR (right, passenger's side)
Uses stock pre-1987 Dana 44 Chevy or Jeep spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, stub shafts, and lockouts.
Fits YJ, TJ, XJ, WJ, ZJ, and MJ Dana 30 axles and TJ Rubicon Dana 44 axles.
Easy bolt-on installation with no machining required.
Aftermarket high strength stub shafts and lockouts can be used.
Eliminates wimpy non-serviceable unit bearings.
Adds conventional lockout hubs.
Better fuel economy and less wear and tear when in 2 wheel drive.
More lug patterns available including 5x5.5, 6x5.5, and 8x6.5.
Cast from high strength ductile iron.
Beefed up with extra material and ribbing.
Flat tops machined and drilled for high steer arms, all angle corrections milled directly into the knuckle.
Cast-in DUAL steering stops eliminate bent stop bolts that can cause u-joint and axle failures.
Tapered tie rod holes accept factory tie rod ends.
Tie rod holes can be drilled to accept 3/4" heim ends.
Powder coated bright orange for long lasting looks.
Machined to clear CTM u-joints without removing the grease fittings.



I have a 78 ford Dana44 I'm thinking about robbing parts off for this conversion. I already have the matching 9 in the rear. Anyone do this already that can give me some tips or advice on the conversion?

the ford stuff you have wont work.

Yeah, Ford spindles vs FSJ/Chevy/Dodge? won't work.

Easy way to tell em apart is Ford likes 5 mounting studs for the spindles, Chevy/FSJ/Dodge like 6. I'm not sure if Dodge 44 stuff is like Chevy/FSJ 44 stuff, but the Chevy/Dodge 60 stuff is all the same so I'm leaning towards yes. There are some differences though iirc.

Check Mr N's dana 44 page, as I recall there is some way to mix and match spindles and hubs and whatnot to get whatever bolt pattern you want though.

so why not put that 44 in again mopar?

blondejoncherokee said:

so why not put that 44 in again mopar?

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I don't want to run the ford radius arms. I can't cut the wedges off this axle.

kastein said:

Yeah, Ford spindles vs FSJ/Chevy/Dodge? won't work.

Easy way to tell em apart is Ford likes 5 mounting studs for the spindles, Chevy/FSJ/Dodge like 6. I'm not sure if Dodge 44 stuff is like Chevy/FSJ 44 stuff, but the Chevy/Dodge 60 stuff is all the same so I'm leaning towards yes. There are some differences though iirc.

Check Mr N's dana 44 page, as I recall there is some way to mix and match spindles and hubs and whatnot to get whatever bolt pattern you want though.

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Yeah after some research it seems like I can use my hub and rotors, but I need Chevy small bearing spindles, brake backing plate, calipers, 9.94 stub shafts.

Might not be worth it if I have to buy a bunch of parts... I'll see how much it'll cost through rock auto/JY.. It might cost the same to find a different 44 to throw up front that I can 3-4 link. I already have long arms and a decent crossmember.

You would still use te same dimension inners for this right? Wouldn't this be cheaper/better than the poster in the most recent WJ swap thread wanting wj knuckles and warn kit?

DeftwillP said:

You would still use te same dimension inners for this right? Wouldn't this be cheaper/better than the poster in the most recent WJ swap thread wanting wj knuckles and warn kit?

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Yeah same inners. I'm going to assume its cheaper from what Ive seen the wj swap costs, plus the warn kit is a bit pricey from what I remember as well.

Partsmike quoted me $567 for all the parts that I needed to complete the swap, not including knuckles. This includes spindles, bearings, stub shafts, calipers, and a custom brake backing plate that is needed(I guess because of ford rotors/hub). This could be way cheaper if parts are pulled at a JY. Or pull everything at a JY (Chevy)for probably under $300. I'd say around $700 total with a high steer arm on top off knuckles which are $270ish, so close to 1k all said and done.

I'm no expert, but I don't see it.
You spend a bunch of money and you have Dana 30 ball joints, Dana 44 spindles / hubs / outers.
Granted you get '44 brakes and a matching bolt pattern to the 9" you own (don't you?), + hi steer.
I guess, thinking about it, the Reid knuckles are on-par expensive with a WJ swap + wheel adapters but with higher steering & hubs. Less brake but still better than XJ stuff.
I'd be tempted to do a WJ swap, give up the hubs but gain the brakes & call the WJ drag link "high enough".
Or get the right '44 and start there.
Several ways to skin a cat, it seems...

you still have 760X ujoints, a small ring and pinion, and weak inner Cs.

Just for the record, I have chosen not to go this direction based on cost.

Retube the 44, no more wedges. It's a lot easier than you would think too.

Or grind the wedges down(not too far as they are the axle tube), and weld on a coil perch over the top. They are cast steel and are fairly easy to weld to. Your perches may sit an inch or too higher but it's not that big of an issue.

zachandandy said:

Or grind the wedges down(not too far as they are the axle tube), and weld on a coil perch over the top. They are cast steel and are fairly easy to weld to. Your perches may sit an inch or too higher but it's not that big of an issue.

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I thought cast was a pain to weld to, and brittle. I wouldn't want to put a coil bucket on It and have it start cracking on me.

RoyalXJ said:

Retube the 44, no more wedges. It's a lot easier than you would think too.

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how much does this usually run?

moparmansfield said:

I thought cast was a pain to weld to, and brittle. I wouldn't want to put a coil bucket on It and have it start cracking on me.

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Cast is harder to weld to. You need special wire or rod. Also need to preheat in order to penetrate. It needs to cool a lot slower or it will crack right away.

moparmansfield said:

how much does this usually run?

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Not sure I do my own fab work so all I would paying for is the 1/2" wall dom

Are the tubes pressed in? Welded? How do you extract an axle tube from the center section?

yossarian19 said:

Are the tubes pressed in? Welded? How do you extract an axle tube from the center section?

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Axle tubes are plug welded into the housing. Machine out the welds and the tubes will come out with some force. Cut the inner Cs off and have them machined to except your new tubes. One end of your tubes will have to be turned down in order to fit back in the machined inner c

It's cast steel not cast iron, so no it's not brittle. People weld to the center section all the time for trusses and or shave kits etc. Preheat with a small propane torch, weld with welder of choice(I use my 175a mig), wrap in a welding blanket to cool over night. Never had a crack and I've even welded to my steering knuckle to put my Heims in double shear without issue.