Few questions

1. I got a 231 output shaft from a fellow naxja and its a full length and tapped, basically a hack-N-tap without the hack lol he said he's wheeled it's for years with no issue and I trust him on that(I've seen how he wheels lol) my question is though, is there anything I should be aware of since its full length instead of cut? Is it going to put more pressure on the bearings and such? Was curious to ask.

2. I've read either here or maybe Cherokeeforum but there was a thread that stated you can use a thunderbird yoke that has the same splines and u-joint size to do a hack-N-tap. I can't for the life of me find it or get the exact year/where the yoke is, the junk yard near me has plenty of them.

3. Can you guys post up pics of your steering stabilizers? Mainly the area where it mounts to the tie rod? Mine is spaced out from it by two nuts and it seems like its has hit the oil pan a few time(there is dents where it's come in contact) I'm just curious if this is normal or mine has been spaced out to far.

I used that same yoke. Don't know the designation someone might chime in on that. But the iron rock offroad hack n tap kit is sold with that yoke. Just get the kit. It was cheaper than what I paid for just the yoke.

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...e=IROR&Product_Code=IR-XHNT&Category_Code=PFX

Hack the shaft shorter and trim the yoke so there is still about 1" of spline in use. I trimmed a good 2" of shaft and yoke.

The longer the tail shaft the more strain on the bearings. I don't know if that would cause a failure but it also makes your drive shaft angle worse. Getting the cv joint closer to the case lessens the operating angle.

Well that's why I'm trying to figure out what year and where it's located on a thunderbird since I could probably get one for as little as $30 which would be a whole lot cheaper than the hack n tap yoke. I can get the shaft if needed cut down and tapped for about $10 so that's why I'm looking for the yoke on the thunder bird because its either $99 for iro or $110 from six state which to me is extremely expensive for just a yoke lol

When you run an H&T, most people will cut the shaft, put on a yoke & run a front drive shaft from an XJ. Length is good until you get to a 6" or so lift, from what I remember.
Running the same shaft & same yoke on a longer output shaft means your driveshaft is getting shorter - and, depending on lift height - might bottom out. It's also going to be at a steeper angle.
So... yeah, this might cause issues, running the tapped shaft as-is. It also might not.
I'd try to find the cut length & do the hacking & tapping on the work bench ahead of time