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RC or IRO 6.5" Long Arm?

S

Skwirl

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Warren, Texas
Getting ready to order a longarm kit. Looking at the Rough Country or Iron Rock Offroad 6.5" kits. My Cherokee will see a lot of highway and a mixture of weekend warrioring. I have cutout flares (notch customs) and plan to run 35 X 14.50 tires on 18" rims.

I have heard negative feedback on rough countrys rear springs and one weak component of the IRO sytem. Any other option becomes more expensive, such as buying longarm upgrade and ordering deaver springs.

Help me decide! Also, I wonder if 4 wheel parts will give a good discount ordering a lot of parts at one time - 10K ???

Any suggestions will help........
 
call up Clayton and get ther LA kit and be done and never have to worry again. and check the vendors section on here for parts, screw 4 wheel parts
 
Nevermind...... I just found all the IRO vs. RC stuff. I would love to order the Clayton kit but its not in the budget. Another thought is the guy making that Clayton copy. Not sure how much he wants for that kit though.
 
youre talking about ordering 10k worth of stuff but dont want to order quality suspention kit?
 
yes exactly. I suspect all of these kits would perform to my liking. the lift kit is a 5th of all these parts. when you start talking 700 to 1000 more for some of these lifts.........its a lot more. I suppose I could just save longer.

Do we get discounts from Rustys? On the interweb about to place an order from them today.
 
Skwirl said:
Do we get discounts from Rustys? On the interweb about to place an order from them today.
Click to expand...
we? as in the non dues paying USERS of the forum?

no.

Skwirl said:
Getting ready to order a longarm kit. Looking at the Rough Country or Iron Rock Offroad 6.5" kits. My Cherokee will see a lot of highway and a mixture of weekend warrioring. I have cutout flares (notch customs) and plan to run 35 X 14.50 tires on 18" rims.

I have heard negative feedback on...
Click to expand...

read any negative feedback of 35x14.50s on a D30?
read any negative feedback of 18s on a 35 offroad?
 
Full traction, TnT, Clayton DBO, etc.
 
I can tell you I have the IRO 5.5 long arm full kit with the Bilstein 5100's. VERY soft sprung, maybe to soft, and I feel like the front end isnt as solidly anchored in place with the castor adjustor who-ha-thingy as my buddies Rough Country long arm system. So soft sprung that now I get wheel hop on my front in the snow, where I didnt before. Spend the extra couple hundred and get the clayton I say, wishing I had.
 
Okay, thanks for the feedback. I am spending a lot of money so I value your knowledge. I will also research the wheel size for 35's. By the way, I will be changing the rear axle to 8.8 and only running the D30 until I can save more for upgrading the front.

Soooooo Clayton 3 link or radius arm. Probably radius arm I am guessing since I wont see a great deal of hardcore wheeling?
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
we? as in the non dues paying USERS of the forum?



no.







read any negative feedback of 35x14.50s on a D30?

read any negative feedback of 18s on a 35 offroad?
Click to expand...


This post times a 1000. Just get your awesome rockstar wheels and the biggest tire that fits. Once you get your monster decals on the windows, you'll be good to go.

Don't bother with suspension work. That's for posers. Just body lift it.
 
If you have $10k to spend and the first thing on your list is a rough country long lift kit... You need to put your wallet away and research your financial choices better.

X2 for Clayton's
 
If you have 10K$ to spend on building a rig and your first choice is a RC long arm then that implies you will continue to make bad choices and die early. like way early.

please just go short arms and 4.5" and some 35x12.5s and call it done. save your money for gears and lockers.

bastard pack rear with shackles and good mono tube shocks. build a 44/8.8/60/14 bolt. go on pirate. you will get something already locked and geared for under a 1000$ for the rear. you will also probably find a built hp44 for under 1600k$. that will make a big difference.
get good steering, frame plating, shocks.

please don't do RC long arm and 4 wheel parts. you sound like my clueless uncle and it scares me as much he scares me. I have to go out of my way to work on his rig so that he doesn't spend stupid money on useless garbage.
 
If you have $10K do this:
1. plate the frame
2. install a cage
3. get the most complete long arm lift you can with the remaining money
4. learn to wheel like that for a while and save money
5. when you get some money saved do gears and lockers
 
I will go with the Clayton 6.5".......would go a little smaller if they had the option due to my flares already being cut out, 35's on 15" rims. Did some thinking on the advice today and the 15" will be much more capable and cheap. Cooper STT tires. Need to work on rotted rockers now and do some mini boat sides. Thanks for all the input.
 
Skwirl said:
I will go with the Clayton 6.5".......would go a little smaller if they had the option due to my flares already being cut out, 35's on 15" rims. Did some thinking on the advice today and the 15" will be much more capable and cheap. Cooper STT tires. Need to work on rotted rockers now and do some mini boat sides. Thanks for all the input.
Click to expand...
Please post up pix of your progress.
 
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