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Replacement trans cross members?

Y

yossarian19

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Grass Valley, CA
I've Rusty's, who only lists a member with a 1" drop, and Rugged Ridge, who I know nothing about.
The rugged ridge looks "ok" but nothing special.
Anyone else make a replacement cross member? Mine is a folded up bag of ass at this point. I just finished putting it on (holes don't line up anymore), but if I have to take it off again I'd like to put something better on.

I suppose I could get a straight one at the junkyard and look for ways to reinforce it.
Or lift my rig so this doesn't happen again.

But anyone know of a solid member that won't break the bank?
 
i have a manual trans and a different crossmember than the common auto variant.

i made my own.

1184983_530946056959815_1087571640_n.jpg


1239862_530946053626482_1290079287_n.jpg


1173695_530946093626478_1914537102_n.jpg


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trans mount is the same height as my stocker. bottom surface is the same height as the stocker as well, as it was needed to mount my rustys skid. the skid covers up the cavity for the trans mount.
 
Nice fab work, looks really clean.
I'd thought about making one but not sure how well I can pull it off. I'll get some drop at the steel yard & practice welding thicker stuff. For the $100+ it would cost me to buy one, I might as well practice welding & fabbing.
Hmm. Could even make it offer some protection forward of the factory cross member...

What extra holes are you using to mount? Is it a threaded location from the factory?
 
There's at least three available weld nuts where the factory located either manual or auto trans crossmembers.

Just get some 1/4" plate for the sides, and some 2x6 tubing for the crossmember itself. Drill holes in the 1/4" plate, recess the trans mount in the tubing, and you're done.

Been done over and over again.

If you have a plasma or want to get fancy, you can go the above posters way and make something more intricate. But for us angle grinder guys, this way works as well.
 
I built mine out of 2x6" c-channel. It runs flat across both rails, which raised the transmission considerably.

No welding required, just a couple of cuts and some notches for clearance.

Before that I ran the rustys and was very happy. It was a quality piece. I only ditched it so I could have more clearance.
 
I used 2x6 box tube for mine and inset the nuts for the bushing mount about 3/4" up into the tube with a piece of flat plate and some pieces of black iron pipe to keep mud out of the inside of the box tube.

Best of both worlds, keeps bolt access but also doesn't put them out in harms way where they're going to get dragged over every ledge.
 
I built the last one for my DD outta some left over scraps and simple pieces I had laying around. Tapped the forward most weldnut for the 4cly crossmember holes so its 3 per side. More then strong enough to support the whole jeep and the framerails will bend and collapse before it too ;)

n71cie.jpg

2j2coly.jpg
 
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