D30 Axle (Passenger side removal) w/ Vacuum Disconnect

1990 w/231 t-case command trac dana 30. Vacuum disconnect, around 325,000k miles.

So I am doing ball joints, axle u-joints and hub bearings for the first time. Worked the ol search engine hard but can't seem to find much on D30 Axle Passenger side removal w/ Vacuum Disconnect. Got all parts and tools so hopefully no surprise trips to parts store.

Here is what I figured so far. It is a 2 piece shaft and I have to take off the vacuum motor to pull out the shaft ? or do I ?

What am I gonna need to do for re-install of axle and vacuum motor ? what to look out for and such. Being 2 piece how do they lock together ?

Any lube on axle or seals ? I know about adding 5oz. gear oil in housing.

Vacuum motor housing seal ? new one ? would old one work ?

Any advice on this axle setup would be appreciated !!! Thanks !!!

You can remove the shaft without pulling the actuator, but putting it back in can be hit or miss since you have to get it all aligned with the sleeve and the shift fork. Its just 4 simple bolts. Just RTV it when you put it back together. It isn't a major spot for leaks.

Ok, That sounds good. I pictured a bunch of little parts falling out when I took cover off. Local parts house list the motor as not available so a gasket isn't likely to be found anyways. I'll look at it and might just make one out of some blank gasket sheets I have laying around. That vacuum motor and crush sleeve on ball joint are left out of all the write ups I seen so far.

I always cleaned it up well with brake cleaner and put a thin coat of automotive gasket silicon around the mating surface, never had any issues.

Be careful of the vacuum lines, they get way brittle with age. Squirt some spray oil into the vacuum openings on the shift motor. An occasional dose of spray oil into the vacuum openings really seems to help it shift well and helps avoid the issues many people have with this setup. That spray oil into the shift motor vacuum openings is a TSB (Technical service bulletin).

I say again, be real careful with the vacuum lines they are likely to be difficult, if not impossible, to find anymore. Fabing up some new ones isn't that big of a deal, just a pain and time consuming.

MACH90XJ said:

crush sleeve on ball joint are left out of all the write ups I seen so far.

Click to expand...

What crush sleeve? You mean the bottom ball joint adjustable seat?



Bilder hochladen

8Mud said:

What crush sleeve? You mean the bottom ball joint adjustable seat?



Bilder hochladen

Click to expand...

Yes, that part I was calling a crush sleeve. I stumbled across something last night about it and the real name you showed me. The article I read said they were used only on SJ Jeeps, pre 84' full size type jeeps. Article said it was used on the top ball joint and to install flush with edge and torque to 50lbs. I did see a video of it on the lower, so I'll find out soon enough if I even have one on my setup.

So you say a blast of wd40 in the vacuum line openings spraying towards the motor right ? not in the plastic lines towards the trans case.

Yes spray some WD 40 or something similar into the vacuum openings on the shift motor. UNLESS, you have a great deal of difficulty getting the vacuum lines off, then I'd just leave it to avoid catastrophe.

That adjustable seat ( or sleeve) is on all Renix I've ever seen. I'm not exactly sure when they discontinued it, somewhere around H.O. introduction.

You can spin that seat when tightening down the ball joint bottom nut. Pays to be watchful. I usually nick the threads a little with a chisel, after I get it adjusted, to avoid it spinning when I tighten down the bottom nut. I really don't know how critical that adjustment is, but I tend to follow directions when I can.

My shift motor used to stick occasionally and make a wicked ratcheting sound when I was trying to engage 4X. After I got in the habit of spraying some oil into the vacuum openings on the shift motor I seldom had any more issues with sticky shifts (shaft engagement).

Well that was fun !! NOT.. Ball joints, Hubs and axle u-joints all at once and done. Good for another 300k :laugh: .

One question on the axle seal on passenger side disconnect. I may have to replace this, not sure yet I think the oil leaking is from the residual that was leaking while the axle was out and doing the job. Topped off differential and will watch it for a few days.
My question is I am supposed to add 5oz. of fluid to the disconnect side presumable at the vac motor opening ? I dont see how thats possible with out removing cover in which case the oil wont stay there while I bolt the cover on. Is there some filler hole I didnt see on the vac disco side axle tube ? I am assuming the main differential housing has a seal like the non disco axles or is there no seal on passenger side that lets the main diff oil pass to the vac motor side.

Thanks again for the info !! I dont know what we did before the interweb.