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Am I crazy to think this is a decent deal, '99 engine in a '98?

J

Jonner

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Charlotte, NC
I found this 123,000 mile engine on Ebay which just happens to be in Ohio and looks to come from an ideal donor vehicle (roll over - so the engine had to be running when they rolled it). The engine looks clean, but I'm hesitant about the $950 price tag and '99 issues (does it have a head prone to cracking)?

Am I crazy? It's half the price of a rebuild, and I get to sell off my old engine to reduce the price. I'm making calls to junkyards in the area, but is this a good deal given all the details?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-JEEP-CHEROKEE-ENGINE-6-242-4-0L-VIN-S-MOTOR-293820-/321239219860

Pros:
-In Ohio, so I can check oil color, etc before picking it up
-Looks like a clean engine
-Rollover, so better chance the engine works and known mileage
-Half the price of a full rebuild
-Has the equal length intake

Cons:
-Expensive for a 4.0L at $950
-Does it have the ______ head prone to cracking?
-Will I have to change over most of my '98 sensors?
-Shipping is included in the price, which I probably don't need
-Still some unknowns buying a used engine
 
To add to my dilemma, I just called a junkyard 3 miles South of me that said they had a 120,000 '97 Cherokee 4.0L for $400. They gave me the Vin #, so I bought a month subscription to autocheck. The engine vin they gave me says that the car spent the last 4 months of its life stolen and was registered as a total loss with the insurance company at 171,000 miles.

I'm not crazy to be weary of junkyard engines. I just don't want to pay rebuild prices. It's not crazy to want piece of mind, right?
 
a used engine is always a gamble. a junkyard will usually offer a warrantee of some sorts for a couple more $$. so for close to the same $$ you might get a little more peace of mind. anyone selling a used engine will drain the crankcase before they pull it so its not likely you will get to see any oil beyond what is inside the valve cover.
what ever one you do get, pull the valve cover off BEFORE you pay your $$. any reputable guy will let you do that to inspect it unless he knows there is a problem.
 
Head is fine for a 99 into 98 swap, should be almost all exactly the same parts, make sure it wasn't run upside down for a while though because that would result in oil starvation and bearing damage.

Prices you are seeing are insane. The yard near me gets $180 for 6cyl engines, and that's their normal price, in a month or two they'll probably do a $100 engine sale. You could probably buy gas to get out here and pick one yourself for that.

I have never paid over $160 for a 4.0.
 
Prices vary A LOT by location. kastein, you guys also get axles for dirt cheap because your vehicles all rust out in 10 years or less. I've never sold a 4.0 for less than 250, and they're gone inside of a week at that price (and those were 200K+ motors, I got 500 for one with 110K, gone in a day). Junkyard prices around me are 300-500 depending on which yard you go to. Regardless, 950 for that '99 is crazy high. The highest I've seen a 4.0 go for around here is about 750, and that was for a low mileage '01 and included good mini-cats.

Sensor locations didn't change from '98-'99, although some connectors did. Just mix and match as necessary to make things work. The bad head casting (0331) didn't start till '00, so no worries there.
 
I contacted the seller and was able to get the Vin # on the '99 Ebay motor.

It spent almost all of its life in Texas and was last registered with 116,752 miles so mileage claims are good on this motor. The state agency notes read "COLLISION WITH A FIXED OBJECT (EMBANKMENT), VEHICLE OVERTURNED"

The seller also said I could get the motor for $800 if I were to pick it up. Local salvage prices are ranging from $400-1350 with the average price around $650. The motor looks like it's in good shape externally, and so did the Jeep. I know it sounds crazy expensive, but with the other options around here it's looking more attractive. A rebuild will cost at least $1800 ($1000 more!).

I'm going to see if I can make arrangements with the seller to view under the valve cover and oil pan before I commit my money.
 
I think thats too much to pay for a shot in the dark. I rolled over engine left running will not last long.

I just bought a low mileage 98 long block for $400 out of NC. I thought I paid too much for it but it runs real smooth.
 
Check the rod bearings and bores. If they show abnormal wear, pass on it. Else, I'd buy it.

I've never seen mains get all that bad, and cam bearings are in there pretty deep to check on a motor you haven't bought yet.
 
kastein said:
Check the rod bearings and bores. If they show abnormal wear, pass on it. Else, I'd buy it.

I've never seen mains get all that bad, and cam bearings are in there pretty deep to check on a motor you haven't bought yet.
Click to expand...

I'm on the fence, but I'm leaning towards buying it. Judging by the condition of the rest of the vehicle, the owner was an enthusiast. The engine is fairly clean externally with the freeze plugs, water pump, headers, and intake all looking brand new. The salvage yard could have been responsible for this, but I doubt they would have taken much time detailing the engine for sale.

I need to learn how to check the bottom end bearings. Anyone have a good link on youtube or elsewhere on the internet???
 
its still way to much for a unknown motor, 3-400 is absolute max anyone should pay for a used 4.0
 
I don't understand how people are finding used motors for $300-400. The motors I'm finding in that price range are 200k+ typically, Core motors around here (using car-part.com) are around that price range.

There must be some secret mecca of cheap 4.0L around here that I need to stumble upon!
 
First problem, you're using car-part. That's for impatient people with too much money and shops who are charging the customer and don't care.

Try craigslist, try local club forums, and (I forget if I mentioned this already) try you-pull yards.
 
You dont want the best looking engine. A lot of times theyll detail an engine to sell it for a higher price. Also, id never buy an engine from a mechanic as they usually know when to offload something before it goes kaboom. Id put an ad on craigslist asking for 4.0's for sale before id pay that price for a used motor. Too easy to get burned and then youre out on time for the install and removal. If i cant hear it run or drive it, its a core. Period.
 
kastein said:
First problem, you're using car-part. That's for impatient people with too much money and shops who are charging the customer and don't care.

Try craigslist, try local club forums, and (I forget if I mentioned this already) try you-pull yards.
Click to expand...
x-eleventy million!!!! Look on Craigslist. You should be able use a 4.0ltr from any year ZJ, TJ, XJ. WJ motors have a different motor mount location so they won't work. Also the ZJ, and TJ motors have a different accessory bracket so you would need to swap over the one from your old one.

http://tuscarawas.craigslist.org/pts/4242982569.html

http://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/4295319365.html

http://zanesville.craigslist.org/pts/4277237929.html

Here are three I found right off the get go for less than $400....
 
scoobyxj said:
x-eleventy million!!!! Look on Craigslist. You should be able use a 4.0ltr from any year ZJ, TJ, XJ. WJ motors have a different motor mount location so they won't work. Also the ZJ, and TJ motors have a different accessory bracket so you would need to swap over the one from your old one.

http://tuscarawas.craigslist.org/pts/4242982569.html

http://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/4295319365.html

http://zanesville.craigslist.org/pts/4277237929.html

Here are three I found right off the get go for less than $400....
Click to expand...

I got burned on Craigslist the last time I bought something bigger (a washer whose motor went out after I did 6 loads of laundry) so I'm really hesitant to use Craigslist. But, I've gotta pay to play.

Thanks for giving me some motivation. Time to make some phone calls!
 
Jonner said:
I don't understand how people are finding used motors for $300-400. The motors I'm finding in that price range are 200k+ typically, Core motors around here (using car-part.com) are around that price range.

There must be some secret mecca of cheap 4.0L around here that I need to stumble upon!
Click to expand...

Its probably a regional thing. Here in SWVA and NWNC XJ's are everywhere. On my 4 mile daily commute I see at least 20 on the road, on average. I could find you a complete and good running/looking XJ around here for what you are looking to spend on just a motor up there in Ohio.

I have 4 XJ's/1 MJ in my driveway and I didn't spend over 1k for any of them when I purchased them.
 
Xjtrailrider-
I noticed your from VA and found your motor in NC. Did you find the motor thru craigslist or some other means?

4 out of 5 naxjaers agree. An $800 used 4.0l is too much so the search continues.
 
One quick tip when looking at a 99 engine, early ones used a distributer later production may be Coil on Plug (COP). It is my understanding that COP engines had the crack prone head. Again there may be variations on this but in every instance I have ever seen this is the case. Its a quick tip and you would always want to verify but if inquiring over the phone its an easy way to make a preliminary ID. Good Luck!
 
That's been a rather persistent rumor but I have never, ever, ever seen a 99 with the 0331 head and coil rail, only 2000s and later. And I live in a state that follows CA emissions, AFAIK, so we would have been the first to get them.

As for getting burned on CL - I would trust them just as much as a wreckers, do the same checks if you can. Pull the pan, check the rod bearings and bores for abnormal wear.
 
Jonner said:
Xjtrailrider-
I noticed your from VA and found your motor in NC. Did you find the motor thru craigslist or some other means?

4 out of 5 naxjaers agree. An $800 used 4.0l is too much so the search continues.
Click to expand...

I found my motor on NC4x4, I bought it from a fellow wheeler that also parts out XJ's. He was holding onto the low mileage engine for himself so I had to pay a little more for it to get him to let it go. I needed a good engine quick and he helped me out. Good and quick is not cheap! Most times that same engine would have been $250-300
 
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