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Slip yokes.... Old vs New- I need a T-case anyway...

skyb44

NAXJA Forum User
1996 cherokee country 4.0 auto.
transfer case is hosed. Chain is loose, fluid looks like crap.
I get a pop noise on hard acceleration- this seems semi-common with the greased slip yokes. my 1990 (wrecked RIP) had the old style that was lubricated with transfer case fluid. that thing worked awesome. no noises, seems like a better design.

so questions- should I get an older transfer case? What else will i have to change? Are the older ones really stronger?
 
Well. Actually, people pay good money to get rid of that tail cone.
* 231s are not stronger.
* They leak like sieve when you take the rear driveshaft out if you break it.
* Tail cones have been known to break.
* if you ever do a h&t sye conversion to your t-case you don't have to deal which buying a rear bearing also.

What lift do you have that you are constantly binding the slip yoke, or does it just need grease?

As far as the other bits, take it out and fix it. Don't forget about new shift fork pads.
-Ron
 
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Well. Actually, people pay good money to get rid of that tail cone.
* 231s are not stronger.
* They leak like sieve when you take the rear driveshaft out if you break it.
* Tail cones have been known to break.
* if you ever do a h&t sye conversion to your t-case you don't have to deal which buying a rear bearing also.

What lift do you have that you are constantly binding the slip yoke, or does it just need grease?

As far as the other bits, take it out and fix it. Don't forget about new shift fork pads.
-Ron


no lift.. i guess it just needs grease. I have no intention of adding a SYE or lift to this vehicle. I guess i was just figuring the ones lubed by the ATF in the case were less maintenance.
I'm concerned the transfer case housing is worn from the chain rubbing it, the fluid looks really bad also, so I'm guessing the bearings aren't particularly happy. Thinking that ~100 bucks for a used case would be a better way to go.
 
IIRC the T-case should be just a bolt-in. New or old, as long as you're going to do it, do it right and put a 242 in. Of all the jeep problems I've had, the 242 transfer case has never been one of them, even when subjected to a lot of abuse.

I think you do need to swap out the driveshaft yoke (front), as long as you're at it, it's probably worth replacing the rear u-joint also.
 
IIRC the T-case should be just a bolt-in. New or old, as long as you're going to do it, do it right and put a 242 in. Of all the jeep problems I've had, the 242 transfer case has never been one of them, even when subjected to a lot of abuse.

I think you do need to swap out the driveshaft yoke (front), as long as you're at it, it's probably worth replacing the rear u-joint also.

What about the while 21 vs 23 spline on the input shaft issue? and why is a 242 better?
 
What about the while 21 vs 23 spline on the input shaft issue? and why is a 242 better?

Well, the 21 vs 23 spline means...they're not interchangeable without modification. If you're running a 23 spline, use a 23 spline.

The 231 will not do well (read break) on dry pavement for any distance.

242 is full time 4WD if you want to run it that way. A 242 you can run in 4WD in a number of conditions...including dry pavement.
 
got a 231 coming on trade. what else should i do while i have it apart? U-joints on the rear... should i do the fronts too?

Sky's the limit grasshopper, the sky's the limit :)

I've found that as with most things, you can play until you can't pay with maintenance. I usually priorititize the repairs into:

Gotta do now
Should do now, but it's not life theatening.
Should do soon
Should do sometime in the future

Then I spend the money accordingly :)
 
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