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242 full time operation....

Hellbent

Hellbent

NAXJA Forum User
Location
san diego, california
Question for those of you with 242 experience...
I just picked up a no-start xj for super cheap. New plug wires & a fuel pump, & she runs great. :D
It's an '89 4.0/aw-4/242/d35 with a limited slip diff. It's been sitting for about a year. I tested the 4wd today, works good-no weird noises, but hard to get in & out of 2/4 pt/4 ft/4 lo. The linkage is sticky, & possibly needs adjusting. In full time 4wd the full time light does not come on(haven't checked the bulb yet), although the part time light works fine.
My question is: should there be any grabbiness, jerking, tire scrubbing, etc when turning sharply in full time 4? I've never owned a 242 before. Full time feels very much like part time when maneuvering around the parking lot at work. In 2wd, everything is perfect. Sounds just fine, but tugs the steering wheel pretty good and I can hear/feel tire scrub at diagonally opposite wheels when turning sharp at low speeds.
Is it possible for the lever to be distinctly in the 4 ft position, but have the case still in part time high?
Any ideas?
 
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yes, check the shift linkage adjustment. It's pretty easy and even a Chiltons or Haynes manual has the procedure. I've felt a little scrub turning tight in full-time 4x4, but not dramatic. Much more dramatic if in 4-wheel part time.
 
I'm going to clean, lube, & adjust the linkages as soon as I get a chance. The jerking/scrubbing is very noticeable, enough to yank the wheel out of your hand-if you're not paying attention.
 
Check your engine and transmission mounts as well.
 
Lube the linkage for sure. and, check the transfer case lube level. the 242 is a bit stubborn. Best to shift it the way the factory recommends:

Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual.

"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I let off the gas, throw the lever, and then tap the gas and let off.

4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".
 
i'm thinking that front wheel joints may need replacing. Also, I was shifting into full time sitting still with the trans in neutral.
I didn't think it "felt normal" to be that grabby. I'll check all the recommendations & report back with the results.
Thanks!
 
I agree with the above posts. My full time and part time lights are intermittent (doesn't bother me) but I think its just because it's old. As far as driving it in 4wd, my manual says to NOT drive in 4wd full time unless the road conditions are slippery (snow, ice, rain or sand). This is due to transfer of power in the transfer case giving the "slipping" axle more power. My assumption is you will damage the transfer case if road conditions have traction. Just my $.02 though. A suggestion is to do your testing of the linkage after you have lubed it on a surface with less traction on the tires.
 
1904-96xj said:
I agree with the above posts. My full time and part time lights are intermittent (doesn't bother me) but I think its just because it's old. As far as driving it in 4wd, my manual says to NOT drive in 4wd full time unless the road conditions are slippery (snow, ice, rain or sand). This is due to transfer of power in the transfer case giving the "slipping" axle more power. My assumption is you will damage the transfer case if road conditions have traction. Just my $.02 though. A suggestion is to do your testing of the linkage after you have lubed it on a surface with less traction on the tires.
Click to expand...

That assumption is bass akward. Part time 4WD is not to be used unless road conditions are slippery.
 
So a while ago my buddy picked up a 90 with pretty similar specs, while we were driving it home we noticed that it was stuck in 4FT, when we got home we found that the TC had somehow gotten a mix of water and ATF in it, we drained and replaced the fluid and it shifts better than mine does.
 
All I've had time to do so far, is clean & lube the linkage. That, coupled with the shifting while moving, has helped the hard shifting issue greatly.
I'm going to check, drain, & refill the fluids Saturday.
I'm really thinking there's one(or two) bad wheel ujoints. We shall see...
 
Hellbent said:
All I've had time to do so far, is clean & lube the linkage. That, coupled with the shifting while moving, has helped the hard shifting issue greatly.
I'm going to check, drain, & refill the fluids Saturday.
I'm really thinking there's one(or two) bad wheel ujoints. We shall see...
Click to expand...


Excellent plan of attack.
 
so, as a follow up...
i hosed down all the tcase linkage with brake cleaner, then sprayed it with aerosol graphite lube, and changed the fluid. this did help it shift more smoothly, and after driving around for an hour shifting in and out of the various ranges, the deal seems to be that a 242 is just a much more finicky b1tch than a 231.
it works just fine, she's just picky about when and how she goes from 2 to full time 4 and back again. also-answering my own question-there is no "tugging or grabbing" in full time 4 on the street, except for very sharp corners at speed-i can feel just the slightest "pull" in the front end. it's fun on decreasing radius freeway ramps....though the body roll from the dead shocks and mushy swaybar bushings is pretty wicked.
the non-immediate shifting just seems to be the nature of the beast. thanks for all the tips and info.
 
Last edited:
Hellbent said:
so, as a follow up...
i hosed down all the tcase linkage with brake cleaner, then sprayed it with aerosol graphite lube, and changed the fluid. this did help it shift more smoothly, and after driving around for an hour shifting in and out of the various ranges, the deal seems to be that a 242 is just a much more finicky b1tch than a 231.
it works just fine, she's just picky about when and how she goes from 2 to full time 4 and back again.
just seems to be the nature of the beast. thanks for all the tips and info.
Click to expand...

You are 100% correct!!
 
Hellbent said:
the deal seems to be that a 242 is just a much more finicky b1tch than a 231.
Click to expand...
The one 242 that didn't operate easily was a slightly out of adjustment shifter linkage. That is out of the 3 that I have owned. To pop it in to 4 full time I let of the gas, move the lever, then get back on the gas. Same thing with going back to 2wd. Don't ease off and on of the gas, do it abruptly. I believe the key is to get it to develop slack in the drive train. This method always works for me.
"tugging or grabbing" in full time 4 on the street, except for very sharp corners at speed-i can feel just the slightest "pull" in the front end.
Click to expand...
Check your front u-joints. Mine had slight problems in full time with sticky u-joints.
 
I haven't tried adjusting the linkage yet. I will do that when the Novak shifter I have gets put in...whenever I get the time.
I have noticed that foot on/off the gas business does help, same thing with pushing the tranny into neutral momentarily and back to drive, while cruising along.
I think it does need wheel joints too. I have some later model 760 shafts with new joints that I'll swap in, and keep the originals for spares(put new joints in them then).



Talyn said:
The one 242 that didn't operate easily was a slightly out of adjustment shifter linkage. That is out of the 3 that I have owned. To pop it in to 4 full time I let of the gas, move the lever, then get back on the gas. Same thing with going back to 2wd. Don't ease off and on of the gas, do it abruptly. I believe the key is to get it to develop slack in the drive train. This method always works for me.
Check your front u-joints. Mine had slight problems in full time with sticky u-joints.
Click to expand...
 
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