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Zj axle shafts why not

888888

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Aurora Co
So I'm getting ready to do my zj knuckle swap and it crossed my mind that the cv style axles in the zj might offer a solution to torque bind I've never heard of anybody doing this I was wondering why they're running 250 hp V8's so they're strong enough any insight would be appreciated
 
the CV axles bolt in... yes.

they are like, $50 new from the parts store. they are known to be weaker than a regular Ujoint, especially at high angles (full lock). the benefit of them is that if they break, its usually the cage that fails, and you can still drive on them.

why exactly are you swapping ZJ knuckles onto an XJ? is your XJ one of the very early models? if you meant WJ, the inner length is different, and you shouldnt be using the WJ unit bearing if you want 5on4.5.
 
Wj was what I meant I was thinking of the zj shafts I have brand new unit bearings, spacer, ball joints looking at steering upgrades I was just curious about those shafts I have the big u-joints so I guess I'm good
 
The CV joints on the Zj are weaker. Only reason they went with them is that provide smoother operation over a u-joint at max lock with the NV249 transfer case. The CV boots can also crack, sending grease all over the place. Personally I have had no binding on my XJ with the u-joints and the 242 case in 4 full time.
 
I took out all the CV parts in our 5.9zj, axle shafts, driveshaft & front yoke for strength reasons. There is no noticeable difference except on tight parking lot turns, I just tend to avoid them.

so there is no reason you cant do it. Even if they have the abs rings, no big deal, i use all abs stub shafts on my non-abs xj since they are a little beefier.
 
There is no noticeable difference except on tight parking lot turns, I just tend to avoid them.
Do you still have a stock 249 that is bound up?

FFS.. If I have to edit this post one more time....
 
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You don't want the ZJ knuckles. They aren't even really ZJ knuckles - they are the same knuckle that goes on ZJs, XJs, TJs, even some MJs I think.
The desirable knuckle is the WJ - 99-04 Grand Cherokee.
The ZJ (93-98 Grand Cherokee) axle shafts will work in an XJ, but are a downgrade in strength and, in my experience, maintenance. The only advantage that I can see is that they are cheap whereas U-joint shafts are expensive (new, anyway)
CV shafts run quieter and with less vibration than U-joints, so they put them in the ZJ.
U-joint shafts are stronger and more masculine, so they put them in the XJ.
 
Do you still have a stock 249 that is bound up?

FFS.. If I have to edit this post one more time....


I don't have anything that is bound up, but my 5.9 has 180k on it stock drivetrain, jeep used the cv axles and driveshaft to smooth out the operation of the 4wd, and I choose to neglect that. So its just a compromise. It gets driven one time a week maybe.
 
Its not about neglect. The pos 249's CV will bind up over time. At 180k its well over its due date. Its probably why you have problems in tight turns.

You would probably get the same effect if you swapped u-joint axleshafts & drive shaft on a brand new one. Yes I know I have a 180k stock untouched drivetrain, and its the Viscous Coupler you are talking about, that is the cause.
 
You won't get the same effect.

crap, go find the reason why the 249 jeeps are set up that way in the first place.

A u-joint does not operate as smooth as a cv in a AWD plain and simple.
 
Just curious what did you build your bastard pack with

I would base that decision on how much lift I needed. If I only needed 2" I would just use another xj main leaf with the eyes cut off & one more small leaf maybe.

To go above 3" or so I would use the s10 main leaf with the eyes cut off & a mix of others.

If I could do a ideal lift, I would use all main leafs with the eyes cut off at different lengths, because the mains are softer than the lower ones, especially the s10 leaves have a ton of arch.
 
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