Taking the opportunity in front of me as I swap out both front and rear diff's and transfer case for diff's with 4:56 gearing and lockers and a Tera-Low case with SYE. What I want to do is get a rock solid steering and trac bar setup. Eventually I will go long arm, but for now I will spend as much as I need to to get the "best" steering, trac-bar, springs, and shocks. Right now I'm looking for a great riding and driving jeep, and I figure thats where to start. I will have around 5" of lift and at least 33's and no more than 35's, with appropriate bump stops and fender cutting. I have looked at doing a trac bar setup from Ruffstuff, but also have considered one from Rubicon Express using the stock axle mount, not sure which way to go? Also what to do about steering, OTK or UTK, one ton TRE's or heims, build one or buy one? I just want this thing right and tight! I drive way to fast on endless miles of dirt roads out here in Montana and get tired of everything in the front end feeling clunky, suggestions? (besides slowing down please)
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Front end done right
- Thread starter Elkwagn
- Start date
yossarian19
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grass Valley, CA
With 5" of lift, the best thing you can do in the front end is buy a set of drop brackets.
After that, good ideas include...
RE 1660 track bar, mount & brace. You could stick with the stock mount but I'd go double shear. Look at Kevins Offroad for a really-damned-good mount.
RuffStuff Specialities Y link steering w/ GM ends. It says "y link" but if it was my rig, I'd probably set it up as an inverted T. You can google search "y link vs t link" and come up with an explanation if you'd like. Ruffstuff's kit is $250 or so, then you can buy a $75 tool and ream things to size or a $20 drill bit and some $12-15 dollar inserts.
Currie sells what is reputedly a damned-good steering setup.
WJ brake / steering knuckles / steering swap. It's involved and it's probably worth it. I have it on pretty good authority that this steering design is more prone to death wobble but the components themselves are beefy + you get really good brakes out of it.
Consider shackle relocation brackets for the rear end to dial in ride quality & flex.
If you don't already have a lift, consider calling Dirk at DPGoffroad and talking to him. I hear nothing but unmitigated great reviews of him, his business, his product and his prices. He can point you in the right direction for piecing it all together better than I could.
After that, good ideas include...
RE 1660 track bar, mount & brace. You could stick with the stock mount but I'd go double shear. Look at Kevins Offroad for a really-damned-good mount.
RuffStuff Specialities Y link steering w/ GM ends. It says "y link" but if it was my rig, I'd probably set it up as an inverted T. You can google search "y link vs t link" and come up with an explanation if you'd like. Ruffstuff's kit is $250 or so, then you can buy a $75 tool and ream things to size or a $20 drill bit and some $12-15 dollar inserts.
Currie sells what is reputedly a damned-good steering setup.
WJ brake / steering knuckles / steering swap. It's involved and it's probably worth it. I have it on pretty good authority that this steering design is more prone to death wobble but the components themselves are beefy + you get really good brakes out of it.
Consider shackle relocation brackets for the rear end to dial in ride quality & flex.
If you don't already have a lift, consider calling Dirk at DPGoffroad and talking to him. I hear nothing but unmitigated great reviews of him, his business, his product and his prices. He can point you in the right direction for piecing it all together better than I could.
I've heard the Currie setup is good, but also crazy expensive. I will definitely have shackle relocates in the back, as I had them on the last one and they worked great. Still trying to decide on lang arms or just drop brackets for now, have not had long arms but have had Rough Country drop brackets before and they worked great as far as road manners. I will have to look into your suggestion for lift pieces for sure
VAhasnoWAVES
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake City, Mi
if you want bolt in, a i vote currie steering and a double sheer trackbar. building one really isnt needed. the RE1600 trackbar uses a heim at the frame end, and the stock mount in single sheer. it has a tendency to wallow out the frame side mount. it can be converted to double sheer using a double sheer bracket that has a 2" mounting width. most are 2.5" to allow for a cartridge joint like a johny joint. a wider bracket can be used, but youll either have to turn a spacer on a lathe, or stack washers to take up the remaining width. if you dont already have a RE trackbar, there are plenty of double sheer options.
if you want to fab your own steering, i would suggest staying away from the inverted T. you can spend the same amount of money and get something better. run heims (tie rod mounted UTK or stacking them both on top of the drivers side knuckle). you wont be able to do true cross over (heims or TREs) unless you run the teraflex knuckle, reid knuckle, or do the WJ swap. youll be more invested into the swap, but as far as steering goes, youll spend the same (or less) and gain a lot more. better brakes come with the WJ swap, and depending on the year of your XJ, you might already have the unit bearings you need. at this point, it may be a good idea to opt to build your own track bar as youll need to match the angle of your drag link.
even if its just a band aid, investing in drop brackets (i got mine for $50) might be a good idea until you get long arms. it did wonders for me at about 5" of lift.
if you want to fab your own steering, i would suggest staying away from the inverted T. you can spend the same amount of money and get something better. run heims (tie rod mounted UTK or stacking them both on top of the drivers side knuckle). you wont be able to do true cross over (heims or TREs) unless you run the teraflex knuckle, reid knuckle, or do the WJ swap. youll be more invested into the swap, but as far as steering goes, youll spend the same (or less) and gain a lot more. better brakes come with the WJ swap, and depending on the year of your XJ, you might already have the unit bearings you need. at this point, it may be a good idea to opt to build your own track bar as youll need to match the angle of your drag link.
even if its just a band aid, investing in drop brackets (i got mine for $50) might be a good idea until you get long arms. it did wonders for me at about 5" of lift.
iluv83vettes
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Houston
Drop brackets aren't a band aid. Go look at the go fast prerunner section and see who is running them.
XJLI
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Island, NY
the best? unlimited cash? relatively bolt on? here's what i would do...
clayton high steer and brakes using WJ parts.
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info.php/cPath/86_134/products_id/453
$$$ but its all-new, and gives you steerings, trackbar, balljoints, upgraded brakes, the works. with 35s you want bigger brakes.
springs? again, money no object..
5.5" deavers
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Deaver-Jeep-Coil-Springs-XJ-Liberty-p-25586.html
if you want something smaller, i would recommend these, 3.5" Rubicon Experss
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.c...xpress/Rubicon-Express-Coil-Springs-XJ-MJ-3.5
shocks? well thats up to you. do you prefer smooth riding on road or do you want to be able to dig into your jeep offroad and go a little fast and still be smooth? do want want to blaze down fireroads? or are you planning on pretending youre BJ Baldwin? you will be spending 80-90 bucks minimum per shock.
I actually was looking at the Clayton system, just not sure I am ready to blow that much on a Dana 30, is sweet though. I already have Rubicon express 3.5 springs, and they are not to bad, and I am looking seriously at the Deavers front and back, just cant understand why there is no middle ground, either $800 from Deaver for leafs or $300 from everybody else! As far as shocks go I believe I will go with Bilstein 5165, they should make a huge difference
VAhasnoWAVES
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake City, Mi
id agree.
my ride and offroad improvement has greatly increased since installing mine. but if i were to do what you desert guys do, id want to beef them up and tie them into the frame much better than their original bolt on application.
yossarian19
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grass Valley, CA
I've frequently thought that welding them in & running a brace between them would stiffen it up a lot. Easier than full custom lowered mounts but probably not as strong.
VAhasnoWAVES
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake City, Mi
the addition of frame stiffeners and welding the braces to that that or fabing something similar to the T&J stiffeners would do a lot to help out the lower mounts. but i find the weak point to be the upper mounts. im constantly checking the torque on mine. and the drivers side upper control arm is menacingly close to the pinion (im running 4.5" RE coils)
XJLI
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Island, NY
there used to be, but national and alcan (and bigoffroad, who got leaf springs from one of those companies) stopped making XJ leaf springs. i have friends who have had good luck with clayton leaf springs. i run deavers front and back and if you can afford it is 100% worth the cost.
- Location
- San Diego
National will still make XJ leafs.
The Clayton steering/brake setup is absolutely the only option I would consider right now if I was building a D30. Couple that with some RCV's and an ARB and you have the best D30 on the road that will hold up to anything you throw at it on 35's.
Shocks, I went with 7100s in the front and was going to get some for the rear. Worked great driving 40mph down the beach at the outer banks.
Springs, I had the 4.5" BDS springs in the front, which were much stiffer and better riding than my 4.5" Rubicon Express springs. This is if you don't want to spend a fortune on the Deavers or if you don't want 5.5" of lift.
Front suspension, I'd go right back to the Poly 3-link I had on my XJ. Easy to bolt on save for welding one UCA mount on the axle. Insanely beefy and durable.
- Location
- San Diego
I want somebody to run that kit through the whoops and tell me how much bumpsteer it gets
XJLI
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Island, NY
why would it get any noticeable bumpsteer? trackbar and drag link lengths are pretty damn close, and the angles are dead on.
- Location
- San Diego
From all the pictures I have seen the panhard looks considerably shorter than the drag link.
I haven't seen measurements posted.
XJLI
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Island, NY
I don't think many people on this site are racing KOH or Ultra 4 with a D30 front end.
- Location
- San Diego
I know plenty of people running them through the whoops and across the desert.
Good geometry is good geometry doesn't matter what axle you run.