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replaced u joints, wheels turning in neutral?

bghurc

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Baltimore, md
I searched and couldn't find anything on the forum. I pulled the rear driveshaft on my 95 sport to replace the 2 u joints. Before pulling it out, I marked the position of everything to put it back correctly.

I wanted to sand and paint to prevent any further rust. My father decided to help me out by prepping but unknowingly sanded off my marks :twak:.

The marks on the rear (to axle) remained so I was able to get that buttoned up without issue. Is there a way to tell if the slip yoke is in the correct position in relation to the driveshaft?

My problem, I put it on stands in neutral to check, and the driveshaft started turning like it was in drive. It ran in reverse and drive correctly, but no neutral. The most troubling part was how hard it grinded into park (loud clunk).

Also, I don't have limited slip. Before replacing the u joints, I noticed only the passenger side wheel would move. Now the drivers side wheel will move intermittently when jacked up. Could this be a bearing issue?


I would appreciate any help with this.
 
Auto trans will spin a little even in neutral, that is normal. There's no way for you to match position now if your marks are gone. Just put it together and if you don't have vibes don't worry about it. Check your brakes, probably pass side isn't self adjusting anymore so is loose than driver's side.
 
Issue One is a "Non-Issue".
Your Factory rear driveshaft is balanced from the factory. The tube is the major component and it is the part which is balanced. Just put the yoke on and you are good.

Issue Two is a "User Problem" ;)
In Neutral, as 99xj explained, with the brakes not applied, there is enough viscous coupling going on inside the transmission to get the wheels turning a bit.

Issue Three -The Clunk is also user induced. Did you really think that by slamming a moving drivetrain in park that there would not be any repercussions? Before putting your transmission in park, come to a complete STOP - Even if you are on stands - Apply the brakes so that the drivetrain comes to a complete Stop.

In another thread, I offered up this explaination for your last question.
Sure, his was a front axle, but the components are the same:
<quote>When you turn the yoke with both tires off the ground the results are unpredicable as to which shaft will turn, and which won't.
The reason for this is, once again, the differential.

When you looked inside, you saw 4 gears in a planetary setup. When you apply power to the yoke, the ring gear and housing spins.
If none of the gears turn (Traction or drag is equal on both axles), this transmits the power to both wheels.
If one axle has more (Traction or drag) on it than the other, the gears will turn and the "power" will get transmitted to the opposite side gear and turn that axle.

The reason differentials exist, is that when you turn a corner, the outter and inner wheel turn at different rates. This planetary system allows both wheels to turn and get a proportional amount of "power"
sent to each wheel.[/QUOTE]

99xj post about the brakes is a good one. Brake Adjusters often don't keep up with daily driving as they rely on backing up to adjust.
If when on stands, you apply your brakes, put the transmission in drive and with the brakes still applied and the engine idling - if both brakes do not hold, I would start with adjustments and go from there.

Edit: I see in this thread posted at 12 today, that you say you have a bad wheel cylinder: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1107454
That'll do it every time ;)

-Ron
 
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I hit the brakes before shifting into park, but I'm assuming the axle was probably spinning minimaly when shifting (Doh!). Thanks for the opinions guys, I'll look into the brakes.

Much appreciated!
 
Actually that's my wheel cylinders that are all busted :/

the weird thing is they look fine on a visual inspection; it wasn't until I just started shotgunning and decided to replace everything that I found they were seized...
 
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