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4.56's and 35's

C

cda xj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Coeur D'Alene
I was just pricing gears and I'm on a budget and 4.56's are a bit cheaper then 4.88's it's a trail only rig on 35's would it be just horrible to have 4.56's right now I have 3.07's and it sucks. On the road it's not to bad but crawling around is way to fast and no low end grunt when going really slow. Oh and it's a 5 speed I'm sure you already assumed that because of the 3.07's.
 
I like them with my aw4, I'm on 35 mtr/k's. They are liveable on the street and on thd trail in low they work pretty well also. However, if I had a beefier axle in the front I would have went 5.13's but all I got is a Dana 30 and I don't much like the thought of 4.88's with only a two tooth contact between the pinion and ring gear.
 
4.56's will be just right for the 5 speed and 35's. I had 4.56's with my AW4 and it was just slightly underpowered on the road, but fine off road. I now have 4.88's and it feels much better. The jump from 3.07 to 4.56 is much the same as 3.55 to 4.88's. Only a 5% difference.

3.07/4.56 x 100 = 67% change in gear ratio
3.55/4.88 x 100 = 72% change in gear ratio
 
its ideal on the street, still not low enough sometimes offroad if you do allot of rock crawling.....
 
Why is 4.88 more expensive than 4.56? Where are you looking OP?
 
If it's trail only go as low as you think your pinon will allow. I have an auto trans so its not the exact same but my 35" tires with 456 is only in the "OK" area to me on the trail and about the same on the road. I bought it this way though. My choice would have been 4.88 since this bets driven everyday. 5.13 or lower will go in when this becomes trail only. My two pennies.
 
Well considering there is only 2/3rds the contact between the ring and pinion, I would say that 4.88's are up to 1/3rd weaker?

Just making an assumption..
 
My crawl ratio doesn't look like it would be to bad with 4.56's. We are talking about 9ft per min difference in low range at 750rpm I don't see it being a big difference to lose strength over. Anyone have anything to add? I would love some more imput.
 
I run 35 mtrk's on my 98 with an aw4 with 4.56's.
My brother runs the same tires on his 00 with an aw4 with 4.88's.

His has a little more grunt off the line, but its not enough for me to want to change my gearing. Mine does fine on the city and highway as long as I'm not terribly loaded down.

As far as strength is concerned, neither of us has broken a ring or pinion on the trail.

Run what you want IMHO. Its not a very big difference.
 
It's not much of a difference and the $100 I would be saving could be put towards my lockers. I just don't want to go 4.56 and kick myself for not going lower. But I know I will never go to a bigger tire where and how I wheel 35's are plenty for me so I am thinking 4.56's will probably going to be ok and if it's not low enuf I can always put an atlas t case in down the road. Lol
 
I have 4.56 gearing and am running 35x13.50's on my 95 cherokee, it is also a 5spd. The gearing seems to be about right in my opinion, I can hit the interstate just fine and yet still crawl good too. I opted for the tera-low 231 in mine also though, so I have 4:1 in low range for real crawling if I need it. A hundred bucks is a hundred bucks man, money you could spend on other stuff!
 
4.88 and be done with it. I love my setup and i found the 4.88 gears were cheaper than 4.56. Don't cheap out on gears and install kits get good quality. Nitro is what i went with.
 
clean4drxj said:
Only in a 30 because of the super small pinion/weak housing and wet noodle of a stock carrier. Don't lock the 30 and you'll be fine or if you do get a full case locker and truss the axle blah blah blah..
Click to expand...

Even with an hp30 and a truss and a full case locker I get enough housing flex to loosen the preload on my ARB (rd30) and cause it to loosen up and leak air.

If I was running 488s I'd probably have lost a ring and pinion by now.
 
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