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Flexalite vs random brand fans?

W

WarGin

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New Milford CT
So What is the actual difference between a 'real' Flexalite fan and the random no name cooling fans you find on eBay and amazon? Has there ever been a comparison to show that spending 100 dollars on a brand name fan ( http://www.amazon.com/Flex---lite-3...UTF8&qid=1385007589&sr=8-2&keywords=Flexalite ) is actually better than spending 60 bucks on a comparable one ( http://www.amazon.com/CFR-Performance-Electric-Radiator-Cooling/dp/B0038ZVAQ2/ref=pd_sbs_auto_8 )? Just wondering :p I'm trying to squeeze all i can from a carbed 2.5 with a mechanical fan delete. 4hp matters when you have 80 to work with...
 
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You'll get flexalite, dirtbound, triple threat, taurus, and other suggested options. Find yourself a stock 97+ 10-blade e-fan and skip the bs.
 
There isn't a harness required for the factory fan? I already know I have to buy a thermostat and relay etc.
But still no comment on what's best? We can add the factory fan to the equation as well.
Will Flexalite outperform similar knock offs or will the factory fan outperform other options?
 
I want to hear the feedback too. I am considering getting rid of the mech fan when I relocate the alternator to the a/c in the next few weeks(that means removing the completely clogged a/c condenser which seems to be drastically blocking flow. And going with a second stock fan to start maybe, although I am afraid it might not be enough for the 110* days, pulling uphill, fully loaded, with 3 dudes in a XJ that has to weight over 46 pounds+gear…., or some other cheap fan. I will be interested to see what others chime in on.
 
Wow. For that application I'd run a Taurus fan. You may have to make room for it, but they're cheaper than aftermarket fans and pull a ton of air, which it sounds like you'll need...
 
My 2.5 doesn't even have an e-fan, only the mechanical one, which is stuck on all the time. Sucks trying to get warm when I first start up.
Also, I'm pretty limited on access to junkyard parts, the only local one won't separate parts. If you're looking for a door handle gotta buy the door want an axle shaft gotta buy the axle. It's bs so I'm kinda stuck using aftermarket or Oem
 
Not trying to start a huge argument or anything but does anyone know any actual science on extracting heat?

I'm just wondering how much it even matters how "hard" the fan blows versus moving air across as much of the radiator as possible. IE, sealing the fan shroud against the radiator so you're pulling air THROUGH the radiator rather than just around it or sucking air through the fan shroud.

I'm just using one stock e-fan, but I have it sealed very well against a Champion 3 core all aluminum radiator and it does amazingly well. To the point that getting an additional fan dropped to the near bottom of my priority list after running it all summer without the 4.0 getting hot.

Just food for thought. I'm afraid people are worrying way too much about CFM, thinking they need an 8 horsepower electric fan to do the job that your stock e-fan(s) will do.
 
I do not have any testing data, I have run the factory fans x2 for several years no issue 98% ( one year 90 plus temps at black mountain we got up to 220 but no higher) (4.0) so they do a great job and you can get them at the junk yard.( they do pull alot of amps so wire heavy). now as of spring 2012 I bought the dirt bound fan shroud and installed 3 amazon fans (22 bucks each and they pull very low amps ) and have 2 on thermo relay and the third fan is manual switch back up. I have not had to use the backup fan. but I have run the back up on a couple very hot days and while the 2 fans keep the temps between 195 and 205-210.. with the third fan on it never moved above 195 (thermostat temp) as for fan performance and quality, i have no doubt there are better fans for lets say in the 150 or more price range the 22 buck units are doing a great job and are holding up well so far. so i will say buy used factory units they rock or get the units i run if you run the dirt bound shroud and they also rock. this is my first hand experience. hope it helps.
 
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On some level I'm not worried about CFMs, the question was more what really is the difference between a 25-50 dollar no name knockoff and a 100-200 Flexalite ?
The factory plastic shroud grenaded at some point and the PO used sheet metal and Sheetrock screws to 'repair' it, so I just ripped it all off and plan on fiberglassing a shroud in the future.
 
You mean the e-fan shroud grenaded? Cause I've broken every single mechanical fan shroud that I've tried to remove, but I've never broken the e-fan shroud, since it pretty much stays with the fan.

Another reason to consider factory e-fans, is reliability. I've never had one fail. So, for the price you can pick one up, even new, it's kinda hard to beat.

But to answer your question, I'm not really sure what differentiates a cheap fan from a Flexalite fan - considering electric motors have been around for half a century and haven't changed much at all since their inception. I'm sure the higher quality fans use higher quality components, but I don't see that adding up to a $100-200 difference in price. Maybe more like $5 per fan at the manufacturer's cost.
 
I'll clear it up. My 2.5 ONLY has the one mechanical fan, attached to the water pump pulley with a fan clutch. The OEM shroud for the mech fan grenaded and was 'repaired' by the PO.
I want to remove the mechanical fan and the remains of the shroud completely and replace them with an e-fan/s and a fiberglass shroud. Probably 2 pushers and a puller just to be safe. I was wondering if there is a difference between a 100 dollar 14" Flexalite and a 25-50 dollar procomp-whatever brand. The reviews are pretty equal, so what's the real difference?
 
So I bit the bullet and got some cheapo DPTs, a pair of 9" for in front of the radiator and a 12" puller for behind. I'll modify the remains of the factory shroud to fit the 12.
I also got a temp gauge to replace the shot factory one so we'll see what I've been running at and what I'll run at afterwards.
 
Milford Cubicle II said:
Really. And on top of that, I've never seen any of my 4.0 friends' e-fans fail either. It happens, obviously, but in my experience they're very reliable.
Click to expand...

Ive never killed a motor, but I.have killed.one due to the.motor support failIng on me.

The stockers are good fans, but like the aftermarkets, they just.dont pull.the cfm.of the.mechanical fan.

May not.be an issue on the 2.5, but I wouldnt.do it on my 4.0. Seen too.many issues with electric firsthand
 
If sacrificing a goat on the hood would make it possible for me to go up a hill without shifting from 3rd to 2nd I would do it. I just don't feel like replacing the fan clutch and if removing the mechanical fan will win me 5 hp that's a win.
 
The best fans are OE electric fans (Taurus etc) or expensive ones like SPAL. All of those fans made in china will fail far sooner than a good quality fan. You truly get what you pay for with electric fans. It is far cheaper and better to use the stock engine driven fan setup, if you can stand the noise that is.
 
Agreed.

I'd stick with the mech fan if you don't feel like dropping money on a good, quality electric fan setup.

The SPALs on my Griffin radiator in my MJ pull an insane amount of air.
 
If they fail I'll get an oem style fan. For 50 bucks I got 3 fans and wiring/relay/mounting, for 70 at my local yard I could get just a stock 4.0 fan, no wiring.
 
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