Why don't more people use lift blocks?

Can anybody help me understand why more XJs don't use blocks in the rear to get any lift. I just finished making my TC drop and it got me thinking. If I used 2inches worth of blocks or plate in the rear, I could get my 2inch coil spacers up front. I'm not really worried about axle wrap or high tourque applications because I mostly sling mud.

Strength, reliability, function. This is why we don't blocks.

"Strength, reliability, function"??

They will work just fine in mild applications. If they are kept reasonable (2" or less). I ran blocks (1.5") with a bastard pack for many years with no trouble.

I think the "with a bastard pack" is relevant.
With a million options for leaf packs & shackles, any height you want is pretty easy to get without blocks.
If you have stock leaves and only want 1-2", shackles are almost as cheap as blocks.
Put blocks under a factory spring pack, you really hasten it's demise.
That, and everyone on the internet slams them for XJ use, so everyone on the internet echoes that.

ive been running 1" blocks in the rear of mine for many years with no problems at all.

lift blocks promote axle wrap because they change the leverage point on the springs since they are further from the axle's centerline. on a full size truck with a big heavy pack this is less of an issue but for lighter vehicles with thinner springs they can cause metal fatigue and wear the spring pack out much quicker.

I have run no blocks for years and even with anti-wrap spring perches and off the shelf lift springs still had terrible axle wrap, and even bent each spring into an "s" shape. Lift blocks only increase leverage on the leaf springs and chances of spring or block failure. There are many better ways to gain lift without potential consequences that are still fairly cheap.

any suspension mod will have pros and cons. adding a block to stock springs to keep it cheap will make the initial investment for the lift lower but it will eventually waste the spring, forcing you to replace the springs in the future.
a street only rig could be fine for years, but the rig that plays offroad will get a shorter life expectancy. "slinging a little mud" is alot harder on your suspension that you think.
use a block but dont think of it as a permanent part off the system.
i see doubled-up blocks in full size rigs that cruise fair grounds and shows all the time, but those are the guys that chrome their leaf springs too.....
lots of other options that will work better as a system.

I wouldn't run more then 1 inchers. Back when I first got my jeep I put 2 inch aluminum lift blocks on and they split in half after a few thousands miles and I didnt wheel much at all.

Aluminum blocks explode pretty easily, steel blocks still bend leaves.

I have run dozens of lift & lowering blocks, but i know at this point I can achieve the same thing for the same cost with better parts.....

Same cost as a bastard pack or shackles, promote wrap, why would you run them is the better question.

Most of the early XJ lifts were blocks and spacers.
Then Front Coils and Rear Blocks and/or AAL lifts.
They were relatively Cheap setups. They got you more lift.
Short blocks work, as do AALs, but since most folks start with a set of clapped out springs, then proceed to drive it like they stole it, the main leaf usually continues to bend up front. On the street, driven reasonably, they should last quite a while.

My 1st lift was a RC 3" lift from JCWhitney. $235 with shocks. It worked and got the $500 XJ lifted enough to clear 31's. Many trips and many wonderful off-road memories were created by that cheap lift. I still have a set of sewer pipe MADXJ coil spacers in the garage.

There is a set of Rubicon Express 4.5" Springs on my 01' with no block or lift shackle. 4 years in they are as clapped out as any other spring I have beat to crap Off-Road. Yup it's listing and the front of the springs have a noticeable S shape.
I blame the 33's and the heavy foot

If you go with a Block, go with a cast iron one. Don't try to make one out of Box Steel; a friend tried that and they eventually collapsed.
And as mentioned above, stay away from Aluminium. I wouldn't go higher than a 2" block, use new U-Bolts, and check the torque on the bolts after the 1st few miles to make sure everything is remaining tight.

Lift kits have improved over the years. If you go with a Spacer/Block setup figure it as a starting point and start saving the pennies for a more quality setup as a long term solution

I don't care who you are, a block does not drive fine on the road. I originally had a 4.5" lift spring in my MJ with a 2" block installed as a drop (SUA) to get 2.5" lift - I had to completely let off the throttle when going over diagonal bridge expansion joints on the highway or it'd hop/wiggle its way a foot or two over from the axle wrap and wheel bounce. Very sketchy.

That went away when I removed the blocks and went straight to 4.5" lift. I changed literally nothing else, in fact I didn't even remove the U-bolts all the way, just loosened them enough that I could slide the blocks out, then tightened them back down. The wonders of a SUA rig...

2 reasons
1. they suck
2. there are better ways to do it.

rockclimber said:

2 reasons
1. they suck
2. there are better ways to do it.

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Holy crap.....he's actually right! My roommate has 2" blocks in his XJ but it doesn't leave the street right now. He told me he did it and apologized at the same time.

kastein said:

I don't care who you are, a block does not drive fine on the road. I originally had a 4.5" lift spring in my MJ with a 2" block installed as a drop (SUA) to get 2.5" lift - I had to completely let off the throttle when going over diagonal bridge expansion joints on the highway or it'd hop/wiggle its way a foot or two over from the axle wrap and wheel bounce. Very sketchy.

That went away when I removed the blocks and went straight to 4.5" lift. I changed literally nothing else, in fact I didn't even remove the U-bolts all the way, just loosened them enough that I could slide the blocks out, then tightened them back down. The wonders of a SUA rig...

Click to expand...

LOL! Now, you have to admit when reading what you just typed, that you can't blame the block. You created a frankenstein and expected it to ride like a cady.

It's not a matter of who you are Ken, it's the proper application of knowledge that makes a car handle or not handle.

Back to the OP question - From the RE website

Blocks are an easy way to add height to a vehicle without increasing spring rates. Only use on rear axles with vehicles using a spring-over axle design.

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Proper application of blocks, in the right proportion works. Look at the Go-Jeep site, or even some of the aftermarket companies that build the "block" in to the spring purch. They work. Are they hard on springs, yes, but no more than anything else we do off-road.

I don't think Ken ever expects anything he builds to ride like a Caddy:laugh3:

WB9YZU said:

LOL! Now, you have to admit when reading what you just typed, that you can't blame the block. You created a frankenstein and expected it to ride like a cady.

Click to expand...

Are you kidding me? MJ rear leafs are stiffer than XJ ones so they should be more wrap resistant, I know they're more sag resistant than XJ leafs. And I added a small block just like you recommended he add to a floppy XJ leaf. This isn't a frankenstein and I sure as hell didn't expect it to ride like a caddy, I expected it to not try and hop sideways into the next lane when I went over expansion joints at 1/4 throttle.

And as I said before, I pulled the blocks and have had ZERO problems since.

Steel shims are one thing, blocks are another.
I say bastard pack + shackle, or just run some lift up front for meow.