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'01 XJ 2WD, 5.3L 4L60E Build

A

Aggie_Cobra

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Texas
Documenting my 5.3L swap into an '01 2WD XJ.

Specs of build:
5.3L with 4L60E, remain 2WD
Keep Jeep AC Compressor—make custom brackets
Utilize GM P/S and Alternator
Novak engine mounts and headers

Picked up this XJ in OKC with an engine with a severe knock.


Out with the old


In with the new


Side clearance


Transmission mount:


I tried truck manifolds and LS3 Corvette manifolds. I cut the flanges off of them. I couldn’t get them to fit on the driver’s side. So, Novak to the rescue. With Novak mounts and headers, the engine and transmission were in. Next, I started on my A/C brackets. I wanted to replicate the base the original A/C compressor was mounted to. This:


So, I built this out of 3/8” aluminum and spacers:


I used a tensioner from an ’03 Dodge 4.7L. It has an idler wheel built into it. Final product looks like:


Next, I’m going to modify the GM alternator / P/S bracket. I’ll leave the P/S pump as is, and make some brackets to move and lower the alternator. I plan on shaving 3/8” off of each side of the original bracket so that a 3/8” plate can be placed behind and in front of it to holt the alternator.


Lots of details to still work out. I'm going to modify the XJ shifter as Frank Z did. Still have exhaust details to figure out.

Lots of thanks to the pioneers on NAXJA like Frank Z and Jeff 98XJ!
 
John D said:
Looks familiar. I also did the PS/alternator bracket like you, but I have never liked it. I am thinking of redoing mine and making a new bracket for both. I'll wait to see what you come up with first :)
Click to expand...

John--on my AC brackets, I cut them out on a bandsaw, which took forever and gave so-so results.. I'm getting a quote for the alt bracket pieces to be cut out on a waterjet table. Might have them done by next weekend.

John--what size and type of exhaust did you run?

Exhaust questions:
1) if single, what size? This is a stock 5.3L. I'm thinking 2.5" might get it done but would be somewhat restrictive on the top end. I think 3" would be tough to route.
2) if dual, what size? I would think dual 2.25" would be adequate.
 
Looking forward to the updates.
Planning to use the Novak radiator, too?
 
Aggie_Cobra said:
With an unlimited budget, a T56 would be great!
Click to expand...

Tell me about it!! I bought a LS1 to swap into my 72 Nova and I'm gunna end up spending more on a T56 Magnum then I did on the engine :doh:

I dig the mounting brackets, I wanna build something similar for mine, probably just the alternator to keep the swap simple and the engine bay less cluttered.
 
Alternator brackets

I removed 3/8" inch from the back of the 5.3L alt/PS bracket and fit my bracket templates. I think I"m ready to have them cut out of aluminum.


 
Last edited:
sorry, same question.
 
Last edited:
John D said:
Looks similar to what I did, but I outboarded mine. Maybe it's just the pic, but this looks very high. Is it going to clear the hood?
Click to expand...

Well, crap, I didn't even check that while working on it last night! I *think* it will clear, but I'll check again before having the pieces cut. Shop is 45 minutes from my house, so it'll be a few days before I get back out there.
 
Aggie_Cobra said:
Well, crap, I didn't even check that while working on it last night! I *think* it will clear, but I'll check again before having the pieces cut. Shop is 45 minutes from my house, so it'll be a few days before I get back out there.
Click to expand...

Lol. I "thought" my first design would fit. Turns out I was off by 1/2". I got a new hood after closing it the first time :(
 
Got a little bit done last night

Closed the hood and the current brackets are definitely too tall. I’ll lower them about an inch and push them out about an inch.



Moved on to working on the shifter cable. I bought a trailblazer shift cable, but decided to give the stock XJ cable a try. I took the shift arm off of the 4L60E and flipped it so that it is pointing up.



Right now, the arm is pointing about 5°back when in park and about 5° forward and down when in 1st. I’ll cut up this arm so that it is about 45° back in park and 45° forward in 1st so the cable is pulling on it as perpendicular as possible.

I’ll make a bracket to hold the cable end in this location.



I think the 4L60E needs about 2.65” of cable travel, but the XJ shifter only gives about 1.88” of travel. I can shorten the 4L60E arm or increase the XJ arm at the shifter. I prefer to increase the XJ shifter arm so that I don’t lose leverage on the transmission side.



Finally, I’ll mark the shifter gate with the locations of each gear position and probably cut off the existing gate and weld on a new gate with new detents, the same as Frank did.


 
John D said:
I ran with a similar set-up for the last couple years and never really liked it. It was fine on the trail where I put it in D and leave it, but it really sucked on the street and on the dunes. I just installed a B&M Hammer shifter last week and only wish I had done it a long time ago.
Click to expand...

John--I'm going to give this method a try. Any advice? I realize that I'm trying to cram 7 shifter positions into this gate. I'd like to keep the look of the stock shifter assembly.
 
The factory look was my intent too. Like I said, on the trail it will be fine, it just sucked everywhere else. It's a lot of trial and error. I shortened the bottom arm as well as repositioning the top mount to find the right spot for the throw. Then simply cut and/or fills the notches as needed to get all the positions.
 
When I put the LS2 XJ together I just shortened the lever on the tranny to give me the correct throw length and welded on the cable tab from the AW4 so the stock jeep cable would attach. I then modded the jeep cable mounting bracket and bolted that to the random tab sticking off of the trans bell housing (the tab is seen in your pic just below the cable mount).

You can look at the thread in AdFab and there are pictures of my solution there. I also modded the gates on the stock shifter and everything lined up perfectly except there was an extra gate between "1-2" and "3" on the shift indicator.
 
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