- Location
- Roanoke VA
Just the long block? I plan on using all RENIX otherwise. Will the intake line up? Will the flywheel work etc.?
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Making a 96HO 4.0 work in place of a RENIX?
- Thread starter xjtrailrider
- Start date
DaveXJCO
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Durango, CO
You need to use the renix flywheel. The ob1 and ob2 4.0 systems count differently. My boss was able to use the h.o intake with a couple of modifications. 1. You need the power steering pump for the 96 engine. 2. The fuel rail lines up a little differently, my boss just welded tabs to his rail to use it. You may be able to use the 96 rail. 3. My boss built a small adapter bracket in order to use the renix tips on the h.o t/b. I don't live the ports line up. I could be wrong. But you would benefit a lot more by using the intake and t/b.
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.
Revised 03/28/13
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.
Revised 03/28/13
- Location
- Roanoke VA
Awesome! Thanks guys! I have a new engine for my 96 trail rig so its old engine, which runs just fine is going in our 89MJ. That MJ motor is in sad shape after running upside down for several minutes in a roll over.
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
You're good to go.
- Location
- Roanoke VA
Do I run the RENIX plugs or the HO plugs? I use NGK so RENIX calls for a colder plug but I'm thinking about running the 98 intake so the EGR will not be there. Do I need the hotter HO plug?
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
I use the projected tip ones in all my Jeeps whether Renix or HO head.
- Location
- Roanoke VA
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
7252
- Location
- Roanoke VA
Thanks! That is the plug I run in my RENIX Jeeps.
