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WJ knuckle: Steering Options?

NW-ZJ-SCOTT

TEXAS-JT-SCOTT
NAXJA Member
Location
NE Texas
This could be considered "Other tech" Since its on my ZJ, But with this info its exactly the same as an XJ.. So I think it deserves Mod-tech


I have a HPD30, I did the WJ knuckle swap along time ago, For steering I used 3/4" Ruff stuff Heims, and 1.5" .250wall DOM for Trac bar/Tie rod and Drag link..

The knuckles and pitman arm are drilled out to 5/8" (non tapered)

Well, Turns out 3/4" Heims are "Now" not rated for steering from ruffstuff, Even tho thats what I was "talked into" when I made the order.. and as luck would have it.. All of my Heims are wearing out and have a little bit of slop (popping)

The problem is, To upgrade to 7/8" like Ruffstuff now suggests, I would have to do New tube adapters etc etc..

I screwed myself when I made this kit, and I ran the Tie rod bar through a Tube bender and to Clearance the Diff cover.. Well, That worked great, Until I realized how much of a PITA it is to do alignments..

I've got it "Close" but my alignment has never been perfect.. I just dont have the patience to torque/undo each 5/8 bolts 20 times..

Now that my heims make noise, and I cant really take it in for an alignment (Or even do it easily on my own) I'm kind of Over it.. (even tho its BEEF)



SO, My question now, Is there a standard steering (Tie rod/Drag link) That I can use? I've read that typically you drill out the Knuckles to 3/4" or 7/8" and use a Tapered Insert... That leads me to believe its "Not too late" with my knuckles at 5/8"

But what about the pitman arm? Does it still get a tapered insert?

Anyone know of a stout "More Factory" style WJ Setup?

If it were not for the Great brakes, I would just go back to stock with Currie Steering :looney:
 
Thought about so QA1 heims? Not sure how they compare to the RS ones but definitely good stuff. Not sure if they will fit your tube inserts, but what about Offset TRE's + inserts? Yes, inserts will be fine for the pitman arm.
You could use stock style steering, however, from what I have been told the bottom "holes" in the knuckles sit lower than stock, which means installing a TB mount accordingly.

You could always go with a Vanco BB kit and sell your current setup. As I mention this. I wonder how difficult it would be to use/modify renix knuckles with brackets to use a larger rotor/caliper like the vanco kit?
 
Using something like the Goferit inserts will allow standard tie rod ends to be used again. They come in jeep and GM tapers. But at 5/8" you are already set to ream a GM taper directly into the knuckle.

Pick up a Synergy double adjuster and make alignments easy again. They come in a few thread options.
IMAG0592_zpsa561c0e6.jpg

my toe setting all happens here now, my tie rod has two bends. Going to get a second for the Drag link as we had to put a bend in that one too.
 
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Reaming for GM ends eliminates the need for inserts (but there are several options for inserts nowadays) and uses a stronger, cheaper, and more readily available end than the WJ ends. You just need to decide if you want to flip or not.
Ever try to find a right hand drive WJ component in a typical north American parts store?

just my thoughts on it is all.
 
Any reason you can't go to 7/8x3/4" Heims and run misalignment spacers for 5/8 bolts?

I'm a fan of FK Heims after killing several ruffstuff ones.

X2 on the polyperformance double adjuster as well.
 
I'd replace the 3/4" Heims on the tie rod and build a drag link with 7/8" Heims. The issue of alignment is easily solved with some cheap 5/8" non locking nuts and bolts for getting it dialed before installing/torquing the good hardware. Regardless of ruff stuffs rating, 3/4" Heims are way stronger than stock tre's.
 
I am running 3/4" heims and I don't see why they wouldn't be ok for steering?


If it were mine, I'd just find a new source for heims and keep running them.
 
I researched the crap out of my WJ swap and decided to keep my currie steering/RE trackbar in the stock locations. I figure the WJ swap is expensive enough. you could drill out to 3/4, weld in the go fer it inserts, get factory WJ steering, cut it down, and sleeve it, and run it OTK. Now for the drag link OTK you will need a right hand drive drag link. they are out there. I built steering out of 1.75 .250 DOM for my HP44 build using 7/8x7/8 heims on the drag link and 7/8x3/4 hiems on the tie rod all using 3/4" grade 8 fine thread bolts. its stout. you could shave it down for the diff cover at that point, and shave the diff cover a bit for clearance.
 
My tie rod is already OTK

I think I will just order new heims (it's lasted 2 years..)
 
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