8.25 yoke replacement

I blew the straps off my rear axle yoke last night. I was thinking I could just go to my local yard, pull a yoke, and put it back on, then I read a bunch of threads and apparently it can mess up something in the diff (backlash, preload??) I gotta know if this is true. I can drill the yoke out I just really don't want to deal with drilling.

Edit: sorry it ended up in modified tech. Mod feel free to move it if you want.

Well i've changed 3 different yokes on three different 8.25s.

All i do is undo the yoke nut, pull the yoke off, put the new yoke on, put the washer back on, put the nut back on and tighten it down pretty damn tight.

I don't set the pre-load or anything like that and i've never had a problem. This was months ago and it's still running fine.

8.25s have crush sleeves, so you can mess up pinion preload. Mark the nut location and put it back to the same spot with the new yoke.

I've done it a few times, just use a decent impact gun to put it back on.
There is a thread in the Sierra chapter that someone posted recently, and Bryan C, who is a Veteran Chrysler tech does the same thing I do.

Go here and order part # 4114 (if it's a Chryco 8.25 or Dana 35-same part number used)

http://www.ratechmfg.com/Solid Pinion Spacers.htm

Remove the damaged yoke, pull out the seal and outer bearing, remove the used crush sleeve. Now get yourself a good pair of calipers and measure the thickness of the crush sleeve AS IT CAME OUT OF, AND WAS ORIGINALLY USED THE HOUSING WITH THE ORIGINAL SETUP. Take the solid spacer out of the Ratech pack and mix and match the shims (also from the pack) to come up with the same, or as close as possible to the crush sleeve's original measurement. Install crush sleeve eliminator, reinstall bearing, install new seal & yoke, torque pinion nut. Not sure what the torque on it should be now since there's no original "set torque value" for this axle. Find another similar sized axle that doesn't use a crush sleeve and that will give you a ballpark to start with. I'd assume it will be in the 125 pound ft range.

The main advantages to this are:

You'll be putting it back exactly the same as it was, so no worries about accidentally crushing the sleeve past spec and disturbing the bearing preload

If you ever need to take it off again you won't have to worry about a crush sleeve tripping you up

You'll never have to worry about the crush sleeve losing tension due to high torque loads

I've done a few yoke/seal jobs without replacing the used crush sleeve, and had some success, but the last one I did wound up losing tension somehow and I was lucky to catch it before it did any damage. It's your call, and YMMV but I'd say the peace of mind is worth the $20 the crush sleeve eliminator costs.

:thumbup:

Might as well upgrade.... http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...IROR&Product_Code=IR-XC825Y&Category_Code=PFX

1904-96xj said:

Might as well upgrade.... http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...IROR&Product_Code=IR-XC825Y&Category_Code=PFX

Click to expand...

Or drill out the stock yoke and use a u bolt kit from the help section at the parts store. I have like 10 dollars in mine.