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Defective locker????

DanMan2k06

DanMan2k06

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Damascus, MD
So im pretty disappointed here, and don't really know what to think. I just ordered a complete front Dana 30 assembly, 4.10 motive gears, spartan locker, from East Coast Gear Supply for a paltry sum of $1500. After installation, i drove it about 10 feet before thinking something was wrong. For starters, it clunks like crazy. All the time. Mostly on turns, but sometimes I'll hear it over my exhaust just driving straight. I searched, and have read about people complaining of "ratcheting" or "clicking", and this seems far worse. It's comparable to a racket quarters thrown into a dryer. I thought one my axle shafts was just flopping around inside the tube or something. Nope, it's coming from the diff. Secondly, it locks up when it shouldn't. If I'm doing a turn around 20-30 mph, you bet that thing is going to spool up and understeer me like crazy. Then it EXPLODES with commotion, and the wheel is thrown back to where my hand was holding it before. It's terrifying. This is on totally dry black asphalt in 2WD, not rocks or slippery gravel around a turn. If you put your jeep in 4LO on the pavement, and turned the wheel and gunned it, I would imagine this is exactly what a transfer case grenading sounds like. Fluid is Castrol 75-90 Hypoy-C. ECGS set up everything, all I did was stick in shafts and roll. Please, someone tell me this is not normal operation??

I have a video, I will try and get it uploaded shortly.
 
I ran an Aussie in the front for a while and hated it on road. I ended up setting up a full case Detroit and I'm happy now. I need one for the rear because the Aussie doesn't play well on the street.

I would say check your air gaps and if they are okay then run some Lucas 75-140 and DO NOT use friction modifier.
 
im not a fan of putting heavier weight oil in to quiet a lunchbox for the same reason (loosely comparing) people advise to just get a full SYE instead of dropping the Tcase... its a band aid for a problem.

id pull the cover and measure the gaps per aussies specs. you can find what to measure and the tolerances in the install instructions. PDFs available online. if that checks out, id call ESGS. you paid that much for a product from them... if i were you, you bet your arse id be abusing customer service.

FWIW, i run my front aussie and rear spartan with cheapy gear oil. what ever my owners manual said to use. i have had no issues with abnormally loud operation or undesirable handling. i will say that my aussie was quite loud right out of the box, while the spartan has been quiet. as xjtrailrider said, id advise against a lunchbox in the rear. ESPECIALLY with a manual... the increased backlash makes for some serious driveline shock.
 
1. Who installed the gears and locker? That is where I would start.

2. If it was DIY, then do as VAhasnoWAVES said--except for the abuse--and get help from tech support.
 
Don't use heavier gear oil. Something is wrong. If it is operating correctly, it should not be real noticeable in 2wd. Pull the cover and take a look or take it back to the people that installed it. Make sure they didn't leave the thrush washers in.
 
Yup, ECGS did the entire setup. However "taking it back" requires strapping it to a pallet and freighting it back to North Carolina. I think I'll try my luck with their customer service line and see what they say first.
 
DanMan2k06 said:
Yup, ECGS did the entire setup. However "taking it back" requires strapping it to a pallet and freighting it back to North Carolina. I think I'll try my luck with their customer service line and see what they say first.
Click to expand...

Certainly. They'd be paying freight to take it back as well.

This was a newly rebuilt OEM D30 or a used deal?
 
Finally got an email back. Here it is.

On Sep 25, 2013, at 3:24 PM, Chase Perry <[email protected]> wrote:

301-253-xxxx is the tele # we have for you which evidently is incorrect.
My apologies after I attempted to call you I thought I emailed you. With a
spartan locker, lockright, aussie locker ect. There is only 2
specifications to check when installing. The middle gap, and the spacer to
crosspin gap. Spartan actually only gives the one spec the center gap, but
the crosspin spacer gap should also be checked. If all things are machined
correctly (the locker and carrier) it will fall into this specification.
We check these gaps when we assemble to insure proper operation. We have
had on one occasion where a locker was in spec but on the tight side of
the spec and it was pretty violent when it disengaged in 2 wheel drive. We
swapped it for a lockright and an aussie and all operated the same. The
locker will break in and the unlock should become easier. In 2wd with no
pressure applied the locker should slip: the spring pressure should be
overtaken and the teeth of the locker just slide past each other fairly
unnoticeably. In your case it is not overtaking the spring pressure very
easily and it is catching hard on the teeth of the locker causing the
abrupt unlock. This is fairly difficult to explain via email, so if you
would like to provide correct phone number or call in we can discuss
further. We can also discuss a plan for rectifying. Thanks, Chase
 
DanMan2k06 said:
Finally got an email back. Here it is.

On Sep 25, 2013, at 3:24 PM, Chase Perry <[email protected]> wrote:

301-253-xxxx is the tele # we have for you which evidently is incorrect.
My apologies after I attempted to call you I thought I emailed you. With a
spartan locker, lockright, aussie locker ect. There is only 2
specifications to check when installing. The middle gap, and the spacer to
crosspin gap. Spartan actually only gives the one spec the center gap, but
the crosspin spacer gap should also be checked. If all things are machined
correctly (the locker and carrier) it will fall into this specification.
We check these gaps when we assemble to insure proper operation. We have
had on one occasion where a locker was in spec but on the tight side of
the spec and it was pretty violent when it disengaged in 2 wheel drive. We
swapped it for a lockright and an aussie and all operated the same. The
locker will break in and the unlock should become easier. In 2wd with no
pressure applied the locker should slip: the spring pressure should be
overtaken and the teeth of the locker just slide past each other fairly
unnoticeably. In your case it is not overtaking the spring pressure very
easily and it is catching hard on the teeth of the locker causing the
abrupt unlock. This is fairly difficult to explain via email, so if you
would like to provide correct phone number or call in we can discuss
further. We can also discuss a plan for rectifying. Thanks, Chase
Click to expand...

Seems fair enough. Sounds like they plan to fix the problem.
 
yea that's not normal and doesn't sound like normal "break in" action. Sounds like something is binding up inside - possibly one or more of the pins are broken.

There's a few ways to test - easiest being with the cover still on - in 4WD - have a buddy rotate one wheel till it stops and hold it there while you spin the other in the opposite direction - it should spin while clicking. Test spinning each way on each wheel.

I'd also pull the cover and see if you can find if any of the small pins are broken or missing - same with the springs. Also see if you see any damage to the gears or the locker cogs.
 
Last edited:
DanMan2k06 said:
For starters, it clunks like crazy.

All the time.

Mostly on turns, but sometimes I'll hear it over my exhaust just driving straight.
Click to expand...

This should be More important that anything!

A insert locker will Not effect anything while going perfectly straight!

I would expect one of the following:
-Unequal tire diameter per side. Maybe different brands, different wear amounts, air psi, etc.

Or even poss, but doubtful would be the sole cause of the above.
-Ujoints
-Bent housing
-Gear setup with a issue on the carrier preload and really screwed up somehow.
 
Can you get some open spiders? If so you can easily remove the locker from the equation and see how everything behaves.


I'm with Rob on starting by checking tire diameters and pressures.
 
GSequoia said:
Can you get some open spiders? If so you can easily remove the locker from the equation and see how everything behaves.


I'm with Rob on starting by checking tire diameters and pressures.
Click to expand...

You definitely need to "match" the tires of each axle.

Remove each of the wheels/tires. Put some tape on the ground, enough to roll the wheel/tire one full rotation plus a couple extra inches. Mark the 6 o'clock position of the tire and mark the tape. Rotate the wheel one full rotation. Mark the end spot on the tape. Measure and record.

Repeat with each wheel/tire.

Then, put the two closest in size on the locker axle.
 
Well, I'm extremely disappointed at this point in ECGS's customer service. I never got the phone call that I was eluded to in the email I quoted. Further, I sent another email earlier this week, and still haven't gotten a response. The locker is still clunking. I pulled it apart, and as far as I could tell, nothing is broken or out of the ordinary. Fluid looked great, and there were no ridiculous wear marks. I have 4 videos I'm trying to upload to youtube so you guys can see just how loud and obnoxious it really is.
 
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