School me on clocking a 231

Basically comes down to why doesn't everyone do it? It seems like a very inexpensive simple mod that gets the t case out of harms way. Why wouldn't more people do it when they do a SYE since they already have the tcase out. I am running a ax15/231 how does separating the tcase by 3/8in effect the tranny output seal?

I clocked mine so it's flat. It was easy other than the seal issue. I ended up getting one from teraflex, but it still wasn't quite right and I ended up having to machine the outer seal housing to fit the AW4 tailshaft.

Just redrill the flange on the transmission. No seal issues.

I didn't think the ax15 had room on the flange, a quick trip downstairs proved me wrong.. guess I will be making a jig tomorrow

I just raised my whole transmission up 5". Less work.

rockclimber said:

I just raised my whole transmission up 5". Less work.

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I did this (not sure on actual amount) but my pulleys tried to eat the e-fan and my transfer case met the floor. So I used the IRO jig. STUPID easy...

ibjeepin95 said:

I did this (not sure on actual amount) but my pulleys tried to eat the e-fan and my transfer case met the floor.

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a good set of motor mounts would have fixed that.

the OEM ones, while nice for vibration allow entirely too much movement. my mech fan tried to eat the radiator once.

IIRC, TJ cases are drilled differently, in which they are already "clocked up" a bit. As far as the floor pan, I have heard most just use a BFH to aid in clearance.

Johnnie Walker said:

IIRC, TJ cases are drilled differently, in which they are already "clocked up" a bit. As far as the floor pan, I have heard most just use a BFH to aid in clearance.

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no. all NP 231, 242, 249 cases have the same clocking. not sure but I would bet the 241 as well.

its the transmissions that are different.

rockclimber said:

a good set of motor mounts would have fixed that.

the OEM ones, while nice for vibration allow entirely too much movement. my mech fan tried to eat the radiator once.

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Not trying to start an argument, and I understand OEM mounts suck, but regardless, my motor/trans was at a bad angle. I don't think mounts would help that. A motor mount lift, yes, but then there would be firewall clearance issues...

ibjeepin95 said:

Not trying to start an argument, and I understand OEM mounts suck, but regardless, my motor/trans was at a bad angle. I don't think mounts would help that. A motor mount lift, yes, but then there would be firewall clearance issues...

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Really?

Here is my setup transmission is flat, t-case is raised up as high as it can go without hitting the floor



Plenty of room


Whearas with oem motor mounts my mech fan touched the rad

rockclimber said:

Really?

Here is my setup transmission is flat, t-case is raised up as high as it can go without hitting the floor

Plenty of room

Whearas with oem motor mounts my mech fan touched the rad

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I see why now. Mine was up 2" more than yours.

Here's how I did mine, copied most of the text from another forum.

I was not confident in my precision drilling skills so I opted to use a prefab clocking ring instead of re-drilling the adapter housing. This pulled the tcase too far out of the trans though and wouldn't seal. So we swapped in a longer 231 input/planetary from another case. This was too long and wouldn't allow the tcase to seat fully so I hacked it off with a cutoff wheel.

Cut line.


No turning back.


I cut slowly stopping often to cool off the input with a wet paper towel. Didn't want to cook the seal or weaken the shaft.


Clocking ring mounted and input shaft OD rounded off.


Tucked up above the framerails.



I ended up clearancing the floor a little with the mini sledge as well around the corner of the tcase so it would have enough room for everything to fit happily.



Then I began fabricating a new crossmember to mount everything to. 2x4x.25" main beam and .25" plate. I switched to a Chevy trans mount to gain clearance there and keep everything tucked up as much as possible.

Blenny, i did it on mine but I suppose there was no reason for you to crawl under and see it last time. I bought a clocking ring second hand for cheap. Of course, I've got the aw4.

Hey destroyer. Do you have any info on that trans mount you used? I like how lo profile that is.

GordoSmasho said:

Hey destroyer. Do you have any info on that trans mount you used? I like how lo profile that is.

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It's a generic poly Chevy trans mount, super simple to make an adapter plate to bolt it to the trans and a lower mount off the crossmember.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-3-1108g

Thanks man. Doing a flat belly and always looking for ways to streamline. Also looks like a good one to use for a doubler support.

GordoSmasho said:

Thanks man. Doing a flat belly and always looking for ways to streamline. Also looks like a good one to use for a doubler support.

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No prob, that trans mount combined with brown dog motor mounts make everything feel nice and solid. I ended up building a 3link front off that crossmember and running a full flat belly skid. There's definitely not a lot of room once you get links and exhaust under there.