• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

I have a "Shocking" question...

94xjsport94

94xjsport94

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Carrollton, GA
My XJ will be sitting on 4.5" of lift with RE 4.5" coils and Clayton Y link long arms. I feel like my front suspension will be dialed in basically perfect once the coils are in... Other than the shocks. I'm running some generic POS RC white body shocks that aren't cutting it. My ride is like a noodle coupled with the saggy coils and spacers now. I'm looking to get quality shocks this go round. I still need to measure for lengths (stop when the coil unseats right? It's no good after that if there's no weight on it?) but I'm shopping with Serious Offroad online who always has good deals. Looking at the Bilstein 5165's and 7100's with or without external resi's. I want to get a lot of opinion before I drop $360 on front shocks so... Any input?

I do a lot of trail riding. Rocks and what not
 
There is plenty of opinion here already. Please search :)

However both shocks should do fine, as long as you get the appropriate valving
 
Have you tried calling bilstein?
Might be easiest to take the question to the source.
 
Or you could call someplace like downsouthmotorsports. When buying, tell them what your gonna be using them on, and they will valve them for you.
 
I have run pro comp MX6 adjustables and now have Fox adjustables with remote resi. I find the fox shocks to be stiffer and overall better but I got a lot of use out of the pro comps and I liked those very well. If you have any notion of doing go fast type stuff I would definitely recommend the foxes but the pro comps work very well for rock crawling.
 
The 5165 Bilstein are the not exact replacement for the 5150s, which I have on my rig. 4.5" lift, very soft Rough Country coils. They are valved at 255/70. I will soon be replacing them with 7100s with 400/100 valving. This may end up being too much shock, and I may end up have to go to a stiffer spring.

What I found with the 255/70 and my soft springs is that I could hit the bump stops very easily, and the spring would rebound very hard. The same thing occurs in back, and I am moving to a 360/80 7100 shock in the rear. Note that the biggest problem is at a little bit of speed (20mph) on the whoops in the desert. I have no issues whatsoever in the rocks.

Granted springs should be taking up the bulk of the compression job, but my excessive rebound I hope to manage with the stiffer shock.

For the price difference between the 5165 and the 7100, I'd probably just go with the 7100. Some of it may depend on what lengths you need. Also, the 7100 will require some additional components for fitment. I will be running a 12" short body 71000 on all four corners.

David Bricker / SYR
 
David_Bricker said:
The 5165 Bilstein are the not exact replacement for the 5150s, which I have on my rig. 4.5" lift, very soft Rough Country coils. They are valved at 255/70. I will soon be replacing them with 7100s with 400/100 valving. This may end up being too much shock, and I may end up have to go to a stiffer spring.

What I found with the 255/70 and my soft springs is that I could hit the bump stops very easily, and the spring would rebound very hard. The same thing occurs in back, and I am moving to a 360/80 7100 shock in the rear. Note that the biggest problem is at a little bit of speed (20mph) on the whoops in the desert. I have no issues whatsoever in the rocks.

Granted springs should be taking up the bulk of the compression job, but my excessive rebound I hope to manage with the stiffer shock.

For the price difference between the 5165 and the 7100, I'd probably just go with the 7100. Some of it may depend on what lengths you need. Also, the 7100 will require some additional components for fitment. I will be running a 12" short body 71000 on all four corners.

David Bricker / SYR
Click to expand...
7100 12' Short bodies are what I have and they measure 11" so technically they're an 11" travel shock..
 
Figured I'd chime in on two more differences (after several discussions with Bilstein):

  • 5160-series use rubber eye bushings, whereas 7100s have steel spherical bushings. Rubber lasts longer and rides better, but the steel spherical bushings yield better range of motion (better for motorsport applications).
  • 5160-series are natively digressively valved (better for generally lower damping rates and on-road/all-purpose driving), whereas 7100s have linear valving. 5160's can be converted to linear valve stacks if desired.
 
xcm said:
Or you could call someplace like downsouthmotorsports. When buying, tell them what your gonna be using them on, and they will valve them for you.
Click to expand...

i had issues with them in that respect. my coilovers and springs were not even close. unless i wanted 12" of lift....
 
I've always liked the Bilstein 7100s in a 275/78 valving. I run the 14" reservoir shocks limited to about 13.5" travel.
When you step up from white shocks to a "real" shock you will question why you didn't pull your purse out earlier.
 
Vanimal said:
i had issues with them in that respect. my coilovers and springs were not even close. unless i wanted 12" of lift....
Click to expand...

In that respect, unless they are measureing, you should be telling them the lengths you need, as that varies vehicle to vehicle due to mounting differances. Most cherokees outfitted similarly weigh about the same, and share common suspension geometry, so shock valving can be commonized so to speak.

I know they nailed 2 orders of fox oem's for me spot on... sorry to hear otherwise.
 
I had to read your post because I love puns. :sunshine:

As for the measuring, you can measure until the coil unseats if you want, but be sure you are running a limit strap to stop the axle at that point. For the protection of your new shocks, limit strap it, them measure how far the mounting points are when the strap is supporting all the axle weight - and add a half inch at least as your "extended" measurement.

There is a lot of debate about whether drooping beyond coil unseating is beneficial to any degree. You might say a tire a little bit on the ground is better than nothing, or you might say hanging the tire will shift the COG slightly toward the other tires that have real traction. For Joe wheeler like myself, it is a wash.
 
I've seen people attach them for the bolt where the UCA meets the LCA. Also LCA bolt, etc. Measure how far you want to go down in travel, figure out where you are going to mount the top and figure out a place to do it.
 
94xjsport94 said:
Yeah the top was more of the question since the unibody is so thin. I really need to measure once I get my coils.
Click to expand...

Do you have a steering box brace? Maybe the extra bolt area? Or a through hole with a carriage bolt?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

DutchVDub
Looking to trade for a TJ
Replies
1
Views
465
9T3XJ
9T3XJ
N
Steering suggestions for 5.5-6" lift
2
Replies
20
Views
5K
Mach2nh
M
J
I have a question
Replies
5
Views
722
Ralph77
R
smokeyyank
Advice on front suspenion
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
smokeyyank
smokeyyank
H
Death Wobble + Knocking Noises... a Jeep nightmare.
Replies
13
Views
2K
TrialLake
T
Back
Top