OK, I got a 96 Cherokee with, I6 engine and standard transmission recently. Temp sender at firewall on block was broken , so went to parts store and got a new one and installed it.
Temp gauge when vehicle is warm shows around 230 to 245 degrees. I was told to ohm the sender to check it. I did, and while in that range of temperature I gave above, it read between 135 and 145 ohms at sender.
The electric fan cycles on and off with the rise and lower of the ohms, so I don't think I am running 240 degrees (It runs off a different sender).
I took a Temp Gun that I use in heat and air work (I do not trust it to give me actual temperatures, but have tested it and found it gives accurate differances no matter what it says the temperature is, does that make sense?) and the upper heater hose read between 170 and 185 while the block in the same area would read 190 to 210 (So I am for certain the pump is working).
I then pulled the gauge cluster to check the wires at that end to see if I am getting good ground there. That is where I got lost. I see the 3 screws in the back labeled "grd", "ign", "tsu" (I believe that is right). I read somewhere to take a wire and ground at the gauge but do not want to do something that messes the rest orf the cluster up.
Here is where I got my information
http://www.autometer.com/tech_faq_an...x?sid=1&qid=57
http://www.marshallinstruments.com/f...tail.cfm?id=33
http://www.marshallinstruments.com/products/9204.cfm
Am I right in saying that I am running at normal temps based on ohms at sending unit and something is wrong at the gauge?
Also, if I want to run a "better" ground to the gauge on the cluster to check it (Remember that it is a plastic sheet with copper running around and labeled screws holding gauges with one pigtail hooked in, sorry I understand you guys may know this but wanted to make sure), would I run that wire to the screw labeled GRN (It runs to several so I would assume it is ground)?
Temp gauge when vehicle is warm shows around 230 to 245 degrees. I was told to ohm the sender to check it. I did, and while in that range of temperature I gave above, it read between 135 and 145 ohms at sender.
The electric fan cycles on and off with the rise and lower of the ohms, so I don't think I am running 240 degrees (It runs off a different sender).
I took a Temp Gun that I use in heat and air work (I do not trust it to give me actual temperatures, but have tested it and found it gives accurate differances no matter what it says the temperature is, does that make sense?) and the upper heater hose read between 170 and 185 while the block in the same area would read 190 to 210 (So I am for certain the pump is working).
I then pulled the gauge cluster to check the wires at that end to see if I am getting good ground there. That is where I got lost. I see the 3 screws in the back labeled "grd", "ign", "tsu" (I believe that is right). I read somewhere to take a wire and ground at the gauge but do not want to do something that messes the rest orf the cluster up.
Here is where I got my information
http://www.autometer.com/tech_faq_an...x?sid=1&qid=57
http://www.marshallinstruments.com/f...tail.cfm?id=33
http://www.marshallinstruments.com/products/9204.cfm
Am I right in saying that I am running at normal temps based on ohms at sending unit and something is wrong at the gauge?
Also, if I want to run a "better" ground to the gauge on the cluster to check it (Remember that it is a plastic sheet with copper running around and labeled screws holding gauges with one pigtail hooked in, sorry I understand you guys may know this but wanted to make sure), would I run that wire to the screw labeled GRN (It runs to several so I would assume it is ground)?