AX15 Grinding

So I swapped my aw4 to an AX15 in my 92 4.0 xj last weekend and had zero problems during the swap. Brand new Luk replacement kit (pressure plate, clutch disk, and throw out bearing) installed as well. It shifts going up in gears no problem but I am having a hard time down shifting from 5th to 4th and from 4th to 3rd. Ive even tried shifting into neutral first then clutching again into the gear down, Just a bit too much grinding for me to push through. BTW this tranny has new redline mt90 fluid as well. When the conversion was completed the clutch pedal was pretty soft but after a lot of bleeding and just driving it has gotten more firm. I believe that maybe I am not getting enough clutch disengagement for the down shift? Does this make sense?

Anyone else have a problem downshifting?

TIA

Nick

You used a new master and slave cylinder? Most of the slave cylinders don't have a bleeder screw.

gradon said:

You used a new master and slave cylinder? Most of the slave cylinders don't have a bleeder screw.

Click to expand...

New master but the slave cylinder(used) that came with the tranny when I got it. So this sounds like a problem with the clutch not being completely disengaged? Should I buy a master/slave that comes attached and pre-bled?

Are you using the right pedal box for your master/slave?
guessing internal slave

souske said:

Are you using the right pedal box for your master/slave?
guessing internal slave

Click to expand...

its a 97 ax15 so external slave thank god. I got manual pedals from a 96 because that is the only jeep I could find in the JY that had manual pedals. So I got a new 96 master cylinder thinking the rod length would be right. But there is about 3/4" to 1" of no resistance in the pedal before the pedal hits resistance. I was thinking of cut and threading the push rod to adjust it allowing better response?

Mine has about 1/3-3/4 play after having the flywheel machined.once that I know of
not exactly a linear relationship....


Food for thought

souske said:

Mine has about 1/3-3/4 play after having the flywheel machined.once that I know of
not exactly a linear relationship....


Food for thought

Click to expand...

And that reminds me of something...

OP--did you have the flywheel resurfaced? There is a LIMIT to how much material can be removed before the flywheel becomes an expensive paperweight.

Essentially, you can only "clean it up", and if you take too much off you will have problems. However, there is a "workaround"--aftermarket MC with a larger piston.

joe_peters said:

And that reminds me of something...

OP--did you have the flywheel resurfaced? There is a LIMIT to how much material can be removed before the flywheel becomes an expensive paperweight.

Essentially, you can only "clean it up", and if you take too much off you will have problems. However, there is a "workaround"--aftermarket MC with a larger piston.

Click to expand...

I actually got the flywheel off craigslist from a guy that had it in a wrangler. Looking back it would have been a great idea to buy a new one but money can only go so far. I never resurfaced it because the surface of it was still very rigid. I think that is a good way to describe it. no burn marks or slick spots. Very gritty in my opinion.

Any idea where one could find such larger piston MC? :compwork:

Old_man used a good one, give him a PM.

Old_man fixed his with a Howe master cylinder.

PM Old_man and see what bore size he used.